I went to see my dad this weekend. He’s working in the yard, as usual, laying sod to fill in some bare spots. But, in addition to the sod, I see that he has purchased a dozen or so of his favorite plants – Mexican Heather.
My dad absolutely loves this plant. My parents travel a lot since they are retired and he says that no matter how long they are gone, these plants never die.
About Mexican Heather
Mexican heather (Cuphea hyssopifolia) is also referred to as False Heather. This is because it is not the Bonnie heather that grows up in the Scottish Highlands.
As the name implies, it is native to Mexico and some neighboring Central American countries. It does well here in Alabama as we’re zone 8 and the zone range for this plant is 8-11. Texas, Florida and other southern states should be a good environment for this plant as well.
The plant is an excellent groundcover that flowers for most of the year. Depending on the variety, you can have white, pink, or light purple flowers. We have always chosen lavender flowers.
Mexican heather is a beautiful choice for your mailbox area, borders along walkways, or as filler in your flower beds. The small, delicate purple flowers can add an excellent pop of color to your landscaping.
How tall does Mexican heather get? The maximum height outside of a container is generally a little over 12-24 inches tall, and it will spread out a bit.
Is Mexican heather an annual or perennial?
Mexican heather can be either a perennial or an annual. In our experience, my dad has always had to replace the majority of the plants each year. I think our zone is on the cusp so if you live elsewhere, you may be able to have the plants come back year after year.
How to Grow and Care for Your Mexican Heather Plant
Zone
The hardiness zones for Mexican heather plants are geared towards warmer climes.
The range for these plants is 8-11, which covers the majority of the southeastern United States and extreme western edges of California, Oregon, and Washington.
Sun
Choose a location that will get full sun to partial shade. If Mexican heather receives too much sun, you will notice that the foliage will start to fade a bit.
However, the plants are pretty hardy, so it should not be difficult to find a location.
Soil
You will want to plant Mexican heather about 2-3 feet apart in soil that drains well.
It will need to be irrigated frequently but should align with your regular watering schedule for your lawn. Of course, during the summer you may need to water more often.
Moisture Level
Feel the soil about an inch or so below the surface. If the soil is dry to your touch, it is low on moisture.
Mexican Heather Fertilizer Requirements
Add in a bit of slow-release fertilizer when you first plant your Mexican Heather. The granules will slowly release nutrients into the ground during the growing season.
You can also use a water-soluble plant fertilizer or compost to feed your plants.
The amount of fertilizer you use on your Mexican Heather is dependent on how often you water it. When you water your plants daily during the hot summer, you may want to feed them with a bit more fertilizer.
Pruning
My dad lets his Mexican heather plants grow pretty freely.
However, if you have planted them along a walkway or other border area, you may need to prune them to keep them in check.
Insects
As I’ve noted before, Mexican heather plants are super hardy, and we’ve never had any issues with insects. However, others have pointed out that Mexican heather can be pretty attractive to flea beetles, so be on the lookout for them.
They are tiny black insects with long antennae, and they love to chew holes in plant leaves. If you find them in your garden, there are both professional and homemade remedies to get rid of them.
Summary
If you are a novice gardener, or maybe just a busy one, I think you will find Mexican heather to be a great choice. It’s an attractive, hardy plant with an extremely long blooming period.
As plant enthusiasts, we strive to provide the best care for our green companions. Watering is a vital aspect of plant care, and one question that often arises is whether tap water is beneficial or detrimental to our beloved plants.
In this blog post, we will delve into the topic, exploring the factors that determine the suitability of tap water for plant growth. So, let’s get to the root of the matter and uncover the truth about tap water and its impact on plants.
Understanding Tap Water Composition
To evaluate the effect of tap water on plants, it’s crucial to understand its composition. Tap water usually undergoes treatment processes to make it safe for human consumption. These treatments may include disinfection, filtration, and the addition of chemicals such as chlorine or chloramine. While these processes ensure water safety for humans, their impact on plants varies.
Chlorine and Chloramine: The Culprits?
Chlorine and chloramine are commonly added to tap water as disinfectants to eliminate harmful bacteria and pathogens. However, these chemicals can have adverse effects on plants.
Chlorine, even in low concentrations, can damage the delicate roots of plants and hinder their ability to absorb water and nutrients. Similarly, chloramine, a combination of chlorine and ammonia, can be toxic to plants, affecting their growth and vitality.
Therefore, it’s important to take these factors into account when considering tap water for your plants.
The Case for Tap Water
Despite the potential drawbacks, tap water can still be used to water your plants with a few precautions. Here are some factors to consider:
Water Source
The quality of tap water can vary depending on your location. Some areas have naturally soft water with fewer additives, while others may have harder water containing minerals like calcium and magnesium.
Plants generally prefer slightly acidic to neutral pH levels, so if your tap water is alkaline or hard, it might be beneficial to use alternatives.
Aging and Aeration
Allowing tap water to sit for a day or using aeration methods such as using an air stone or pouring water back and forth between containers can help dissipate chlorine and reduce the levels of chloramine. This process helps make tap water more plant-friendly.
Watering Practices
Adjusting your watering routine can also mitigate the potential harm caused by tap water. Avoid overwatering to prevent waterlogged soil, which can exacerbate any negative effects of tap water.
Additionally, focusing on watering the soil directly, rather than the foliage, reduces contact between the chemicals and the plant’s sensitive parts.
Seeking Alternatives
If you have concerns about using tap water or notice adverse effects on your plants, alternative water sources can be considered. Rainwater collection, for example, provides plants with natural and chemical-free hydration.
However, it’s important to ensure the cleanliness of rainwater collection systems to avoid potential contaminants.
Final Verdict
In the end, the impact of tap water on plants is influenced by several factors. While tap water treated with chlorine and chloramine can have negative effects, the suitability of tap water for your plants ultimately depends on your location, water quality, and your plants’ specific needs.
Being aware of the potential drawbacks and employing appropriate watering practices can help minimize any harm caused by tap water.
Conclusion
Watering our plants is an art that requires knowledge, care, and consideration. When it comes to tap water, understanding its composition and taking precautionary measures are key.
By being mindful of the water source, allowing for aging or aeration, and adjusting our watering practices, we can ensure that tap water becomes a viable option for plant hydration. However, alternative water sources like rainwater collection can be an excellent substitute
Before we jump into the killing, let’s try to understand how the weed killers actually work to control weeds.
Pre-Emergent Herbicides
Pre-emergents herbicides prevent new seedlings from sprouting. The corn gluten (or cornmeal) mentioned below leaves a chemical barrier on the soil surface that interferes with sprouting seedlings. They won’t help you right now, but can help control the weed population later.
Systemic Herbicides
These herbicides work by being absorbed by a growing plant leaf. The chemicals travel down throughout the plant to the stems and roots. They interfere with the weed’s ability to make food, preventing growth. These can lead to the death of the whole plant.
Contact Weed Killers
Contact weed killers work by, you guessed it, contacting the plant’s surface. They are usually faster acting than systemic herbicides and can show results in hours. The roots of plants hit with this weed killer will continue to live on. This can work on weeds that spread via seeds, but not any that have runners.
Homemade Weed Killers – DIY Care for Your Lawn
Most of the weed killers below you will already have in your house. You can be outside slaying the garden invaders today.
If you have ever grown vegetables, you know some varieties need soil pH to be a perfect level. That’s where our first weed killer, lemon juice, comes in.
Being acidic, it will make the plant’s environment inhospitable. Sprayed plants should wilt down with a couple of days.
As a side benefit, your garden will smell like pledge and you will drive away a few mosquitoes.
A drawback of lemon juice is that it is more expensive than other methods.
Vinegar
Vinegar has a similar pH value to lemon juice but is a heck of a lot cheaper. It’s around $3-$4 for a gallon for 5%. More potent formulas are on the market, but a good coating of everyday food grade should do the trick.
You can easily whip up a vinegar-based weed killer. You just need to simply mix white vinegar along with a few drops of dishwashing liquid and transfer the solution to a spray bottle. Spray the mixture directly onto the weeds, targeting their leaves and stems.
Be sure to coat the offending plant well, and it will start withering in a day or two.
One great benefit of using water as a weed killer is there is no increase of chemicals in the soil after you are done.
This method works best for small weedy areas. And of course, this is also the cheapest method. Just don’t wear flip-flops like this guy.
Corn Gluten
Corn gluten, as mentioned above, is a pre-emergent herbicide. Corn is a greedy plant and releases a chemical that inhibits the growth of other plants around it. Black walnuts are notorious for doing this as well.
It will only work on weeds spread by seeds, not perennials that come up from existing roots.
For corn gluten to work, there are a couple of things you need to keep in mind.
Application Rate: For 60% protein corn gluten meal, anything less than 20 lbs per 1000 square feet will just be a fertilizer for your lawn. If you purchased 20% protein meal, you will need to apply at a rate of 60 lbs per 1000 square feet.
Timing: You need to apply this in early spring before the weed seeds start germinating. If weeds are already growing, its too late.
Moisture: If you aren’t getting any rain, you will need to run your sprinklers to make it spread.
Other weed suppression methods
Flame Weeding
This method is used in agriculture. As you would expect, holding a propane torch next to a plant will kill it. However, I find it has limited applications to weeds growing in cracks of driveways or walkways for residential use.
Time and good knees are all you need to save your garden.
But for this to be truly effective, you need to make sure you get the roots as well.
Mulches and Ground Covers
Weeds need sunlight and warmth to grow, and mulch and other ground covers deprive them of both. You’ll need to spread your mulch at a depth of at least 2-3 inches to suffocate those dastardly weeds.
Let Grass Grow Taller
Cutting your grass down to the nibs just creates a perfect environment for weeds. Instead, raise your mower blades to at least 2 inches so that your grass can grow tall and proud. Not only will your yard look lush, you’ll be helping to stop the weeds in their tracks.
Edging
You can keep weeds from gaining a foothold in your garden with edging. Putting up a border between your lawn and the flower beds keeps grass out and weeds by extension.
Cut the Weeds Before They Go to Seed
Weeds have seeds, and regular lawn maintenance is crucial to remove any weeds that sprout up. Removing the weeds before their seeds can spread and sprout is half the battle.
Not exactly natural methods
Rubbing Alcohol
Another handy household item is isopropyl rubbing alcohol.
Add about two teaspoons of rubbing alcohol into a spray bottle, and you’ve got a handy, portable spray that kills weeds.
Get the weeds wet but don’t over saturate.
Salt
If you want to go total Armageddon, you can break out a saltwater solution of 1 cup salt for every 2 cups of water.
But remember, salt works by starving the plants of water. All plants – not just weeds.
So use it as a last resort and only if you’re not planning on growing anything there later.
Spring mowing season is coming soon, and with it comes lush, beautiful grass that needs cutting. Unfortunately, your lawnmower has been sitting in your garage all winter long. As a result, it will require a tune-up before it’s in condition to mow.
You can take it to a small engine shop if you don’t want to fool with it, but it’s not hard at all to complete these mower maintenance tasks by yourself. Plus, it will save you money and the aggravation of loading it up and hauling it over town. Keeping your mower’s blades, spark plugs and other equipment maintained will help prevent costly lawn mower breakdowns.
These are my top 7 lawn mower maintenance tips to get you ready for spring and allow your mower to run smooth:
Spring Lawn Mower Maintenance Checklist
1. Change the oil
Dirt and debris in your oil will mess up your engine big time. So now is an excellent time to change it. I recommend doing this once per season and checking the oil level throughout spring and summer.
If your mower has a drain plug, you have it easy. Just let it drain into a recycling pan and turn it into a recycler when it’s full.
However, some mowers do not have a drain plug, and you will need to carefully tilt the mower on its side to allow the oil to drain.
Top it off with the lawn mower oil recommended in your user’s manual. Check the manufacturer’s website if you have misplaced your user’s manual (it happens!). They will usually have a pdf copy for free.
If you’ve been following my advice, you have been cleaning the mower air filter before each use. However, it’s a good idea to go ahead and replace it every year.
Check your manual for the correct replacement model or find the number on the filter you are removing.
It’s a good idea to write these numbers down and put them in a drawer somewhere. If you want to get high-tech, you can use Evernote or Google Keep. I put all the little bits of info about the house (filter sizes, bulbs, etc.) there. It’s handy to pull it up on your phone when you need it.
If you take care of your mower, it will last for 10-15 years or more. That sheet will come in handy.
3. Clean or replace the spark plugs
Dirty plugs will cause backfires and slow starting. Not to mention using up more gas while you cut.
I don’t replace mine every year. The spark plugs seem to work fine with yearly cleaning.
Disconnect the spark plug cap and find a socket or wrench that will fit. Then, unscrew the plug and take a look at it.
If there is a build-up of carbon and soot on the tip, you can use some fine sandpaper to clean it off. Be careful not to pull out the lead and make the gap larger than it is.
Lawn mower spark plugs are inexpensive if you want to replace them, so buy a couple the next time you are in Home Depot or on Amazon. That should last you for years.
4. The best way to sharpen lawn mower blades
This step is so important it should have been number 1. A dull blade will make grass cutting feel like a chore. Get it? Hah!
Blade sharpening might be the most challenging part of lawn mower maintenance, but everyone can do it.
You’ll want to do this when your gas tank isn’t slam-full as you need to turn the mower on its side to get at the blades. You can also tilt it back so it rests on its handle, but you’ll probably need to get someone heavy to hold it in place or have another set of hands.
Keep a mental note of the way the blades are facing when you take them off. We don’t want to put them on backward when reattaching them!
Get a big, sturdy socket wrench and unscrew the bolt. It might be on there pretty tight.
To sharpen the blade(s), you’ll need to keep them sturdy while you hone them. The best way is to put them in your workbench vise. You can still sharpen them if you don’t have one by holding the blades between your legs. You are wearing work pants, right?
Get ready to work out.
Push your rasp or file in the same direction each time. You’ll want to push it from the center of the blade outwards to the edge. Do this up and down the blade’s length until the side is razor-sharp.
I do the other side, even though I’m not too sure it matters.
Be sure not to push and pull the file on the blade. Just one direction.
5. Change out the fuel
Gasoline that isn’t in a sealed container can go bad. Sounds weird, I know.
At the time of refining, it is a perfect mixture to burn. However, having the gas sit in your lawn mower’s tank for six months can cause some of those chemicals to evaporate and change the formula.
Your best bet is to run the mower dry at the end of each season. If you didn’t, you’d need to siphon the old gas out and recycle it along with your old oil. A lot of counties have recycling centers that will take these items.
Top off the tank with fresh gas, and you’ll be good to go.
6. Tighten the bolts
Now is an excellent time to check all the bolts and tighten them up.
First, check the blade. You don’t want that coming off while you’re cutting. Also, check the wheel bolts and tighten them where needed.
Another area you can double-check is where the bolts hold the engine block to the frame. These will be in a circle above the blade. If you have a self-propelled lawn mower, be sure to hit the bolts on the drive, depending on your model, it could be in the front or rear.
Check your kill switch too. The kill switch is the lever that must be held in place to start the mower. If it doesn’t work and your mower keeps running after releasing it, pull the spark plug until you can replace it.
7. Examine the undercarriage
Remember all those times your grass was too wet to cut but you did it anyway? All those clumps are stuck to the bottom of your mowing deck and block the proper operation of your mower.
I use a large flat blade screwdriver to scrape off the large chunks of grass and then come back with a metal wire brush. Clearing all this junk away should help your mower not choke when cutting thick grass.
A bucket of soapy water can get the rest of your mower looking ready for work. Be sure to rinse it cleanly and avoid getting any debris or grass in the gas tank while cleaning.
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I hope these tips help you out this spring. If you put just a little effort into maintaining your lawnmower (including your riding lawn mower) and other lawn equipment, it will serve you well for many years.
This project isn’t complex and should take you no more than an hour or a little more.
With your mower running right, you can be sure to have a perfect-looking lawn this year.
Tomatoes’ changing color is usually an initial tell-tale sign that a potentially concerning health issue is surfacing and may need quick intervention to preserve the harvest. Common color changes include variations of yellow to brown and, in some cases, purple.
Three potential causes usually surface when it comes to tomatoes developing white spots. Let’s delve into finding out more about them.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a specific tomato plant disease that’s quite challenging to avoid since insects and air currents carry it from plant to plant. Several fungi types cause this disease common among tomato plants.
While this disease is prevalent in hot and dry or humid conditions for long periods, its fungus can survive the winter in compost and plant debris. That makes them more resilient, only coming out when the conditions are favorable.
It’s challenging to notice powdery mildew starting since it shows up as a powdery white discoloration on leaf undersides, eventually spreading to the stems and covering the entire plant. Fertilized plants with new and rapid leaf growth are also subject to infection by the fungus, and this disease can also spread to the fruits and leaves.
This fungus feeds on plants’ cells, causing stem and leaves to discolor without falling or detaching. However, this fungus won’t likely kill the plant but can vastly reduce yields or even impact the taste of tomato.
Therefore, it’s recommendable that you act promptly, treating powdery mildew once it shows up to get it under control if you want to eliminate it.
Bio fungicides like neem oil or safe commercial fungicides are the best at getting rid of this disease on edible plants. They don’t usually harm plants with toxic chemicals.
You could also cut away diseased plant parts weekly until the problem is no more. Your tomatoes will then have a chance at normal development once the powdery mildew is under control.
Best Ways to Prevent Tomato Powdery Mildew
Discard or burn powdery mildew-infected plants instead of including them in your compost.
Ensure proper spacing of your tomatoes, perhaps 18 to 24 inches apart, for the best results.
Avoid watering the leaves directly since they have a knack for attracting and spreading fungi. Although costly, drip irrigation may be ideal and worth the hassle, even for your long-term ambition of growing tomatoes.
Try using Sulphur spray, dust, or a bio-fungicide every week if the conditions are hot as a preventative measure for tomatoes typically affected by powdery mildew.
Ensure that the plants get sufficient sunlight, preferably 6 to 8 hours.
Increase air circulation by regularly pruning the plant using sanitized tools. Also, ensure that you also sanitize these tools after the procedure.
Regularly fertilize your tomatoes while ensuring that you don’t overdo it since that can invigorate leaf growth and increase the vulnerability to fungus attacks. Fertilizing your tomatoes lets them stay disease-free, stress-free, and healthy!
Sun scalding results in white spots on tomato leaves due to lengthy exposure to sunlight. This condition typically occurs on young transplanted tomato leaves not used to the harsh heat and sunlight outside the sheltered greenhouses.
The condition jeopardizes the plant’s overall health since the sunburnt leaves dry out, turn brown and eventually fall off.
If they’ve already developed, sun scalding can manifest as white blistery patches on infected fruits.
Best Ways to Prevent Scalding on Tomatoes
Since your tomato seedlings may not be sturdy enough to withstand the challenging garden conditions, hardening them can come in handy. Therefore, gradually ease your seedlings into such conditions 7 to 10 days before planting by starting in the shade outdoors and giving them a little sun each day. Leave the seedlings at under 500 F the night before transplanting them in the garden the following day.
However, please take note of their response to this new ambiance. Please subject them to this process a little longer if they’re stressed and wilted. If they’re happy and healthy, please proceed.
Caused by fungus phytophthora infestants, late blight manifests as significant brown and white spots on leaves. It’s highly contagious and can kill your plants in days.
So, the only best way is to remove and obliterate diseased plants, ensuring that you don’t dispose of them in your compost since they can spread the disease to your garden.
Late blight is more rampant in wet weather and mainly occurs in autumn or summer. In humid conditions, you may see a silky white mold on the leaf underneath, and the pale green spots on the leaves tips may morph to brown and black. This condition also affects the fruits, showing a white mold and brown spots on green fruit.
A once-a-week copper fungicide or bio-fungicide application can help prevent this disease.
Don’t plant your tomatoes adjacent to your potatoes since they both come from a similar nightshade family and are susceptible to similar conditions. These plants savor similar nutrients, and planting them closer to each other fosters competition, weakening them and increasing their vulnerability to late blight.
You can also learn more about this disease by checking out USABlight, a website tracking Blight Outbreaks across the country. The fungus Phytophthora (Meaning “Plant Destroyer” in Latin) causing Late Blight is incredibly destructive. Therefore, please check this website for your weekly preventative measures and any detection and movement of the condition in your area.
It is totally worth it to be proactive in keeping your tomatoes healthy so that they can give you a plentiful and damage-free harvest!
It’s different from the regular string of beads, its relative. The Variegated String of Pearls has green bead leaves with cream-colored streaks. They almost resemble wasabi peas. The Variegated String of Pearls has a lower amount of chlorophyll. Due to this, it has a slower growth and a less green color than the regular string of pearls.
These white-streaked ‘pearls’ or beads sit amidst thin, green stems. These leaves don’t grow very tall. Instead, they tend to trail down to a length of up to 2 feet. When cared for properly, the Variegated String of Pearls will make a pleasant addition to any home!
Keeping this plant dry and cool during the winter will increase the chances of it blooming during the summer. The blooming season for the plant lasts around a month, from late spring through summer.
Since the Variegated String of Pearls needs a lot of sunlight to bloom, you need to create the perfect conditions for it if you keep it inside. It’s important to position it where it has access to sunlight. To encourage that, you can place this plant near a windowsill.
How to Plant Variegated String of Pearls?
If you search how to plant Variegated String of Pearls, you will hear two opposing views. Some people say it is very hard to plant them, while others purport it’s very easy. There is also a lack of information available online, so we’ll tell you everything you need to know.
Before you think it’s not possible, let us tell you that it is very easy to grow this plant if you’re able to meet certain conditions. These plants originate in East Africa, so replicating its natural habitat will help you immensely.
The Variegated String of Pearls needs a fast-draining soil. While many people use a potting mix that is made for succulents, adding coarse pumice to the mix would help even more. This plant needs the most draining soil mix you can find to grow.
Due to where it grows, the Variegated String of Pearls experiences long periods of drought. This is why you should avoid overwatering it as the plant can rot. These plants have a compact root system so do not pot it in a large pot. Use a small pot with well-draining soil.
If you live in a warm climate, you can plant the Variegated String of Pearls in the ground. They will easily grow, but be careful if you have any pets around. The String of Pearls can be poisonous for human and animal consumption.
Different Types of Variegated String of Pearls
The String of Pearls has several relatives, with minor differences, especially in color. This is what makes this plant so aesthetic. Let’s look at the different kinds of Variegated String of pearls.
Purple Variegated String of Pearls
This variety of the Variegated String of Pearls is commonly known as the String of Watermelon. Its botanical name is Curio herreanus. It is characterized by melon shaped leaves with purple streaks.
Pink Variegated String of Pearls
This variety of the Variegated String of Pearls is also known as the Ceropegia Woodii or the String of Hearts.
This trailing succulent has long, purple stems with heart-shaped leaves. The underside of the leaves is pink, giving the plant a pop of color.
How to Propagate Variegated String of Pearls
The Variegated String of Pearls will grow about 5 to 15 inches every year. They are generally not a fast-growing plant, and this growth may be less if you don’t propagate the plant. On average, the Variegated String of Pearls will survive for 5 years. However, you can prolong their lifespan with proper propagation!
The Variegated String of Pearls will propagate easily and quickly through stem cuttings. The best time to propagate this plant is during spring or summer, and even early fall. This will vary depending on where you live.
Basically, you should propagate it during a warmer climate. You may also propagate it through planting seeds, but this method is usually not that successful.
Stem Cuttings
Use a pair of sterilized pruning snips or scissors, a small, 4 to 6-inch pot and a well-draining soil mix, preferably with coarse pumice. Do not use a larger pot.
Use these scissors or snips to cut several 4-5 inch long stems from right under a healthy leaf node of your existing plant.
Get rid of the two bottom leaves from the trimmed stems to allow them to adhere to the soil better. It is advised that you let these stems rest for 1-2 days before planting so that the callus can develop.
Now fill your pot with the succulent soil. There’s no need to water because the pearls already have sufficient water and nutrients.
Make a hole in the center of the pot where you want to plant the stems.
Carefully place the stem cuttings in the hole, about an inch deep. Make sure the leaves are above the soil mix. Wait a few days before you water the plant.
If outdoors, place the plant in partial sunlight. If indoors, place it in a bright spot.
How to Care for Variegated String of Pearls?
Even though the Variegated String of Pearls is a unique plant, it does not require out of the ordinary care. If you want any plant to thrive, imitate the conditions of its natural habitat. The Variegated String of Pearls hails from Eastern Africa, so it naturally requires a lot of sunlight but low watering.
Here are some important care requirements for this plant:
Light
The Variegated String of Pearls needs a combination of direct and indirect sunlight. If you plan to keep it indoors, make sure it’s placed in a spot where it gets sunlight, like near the window. If you plan to keep it outdoors, make sure it is not under constant direct sunlight.
Ideally, this succulent plant needs around 6-8 hours of sunlight a day. To make sure it gets just that, place it in direct sunlight for the softer morning hours. Shift it to a spot where it gets indirect sunlight for the rest of the day. Partial shade is best for it when the afternoon sun is particularly harsh.
Water
If you want to grow this plant, you need to use a well-draining soil as this plant does not require too much moisture. The soil should be slightly moist during the growing season, spring through summer. Reduce the watering during the winter season to allow it to grow properly. If you see the leaves going flat, you could then increase the frequency of watering.
Ideally, you should water the Variegated String of Pearls every 7 to 14 days. This will vary depending on the humidity and rainfall in the place where you live. If you’re based in a hotter climate, you should water the plant closer to 7 days. Alternatively, you can touch the soil and check.
If the first half-inch of the soil feels dry to touch, this is a sign the plant needs water. The best way is to water thoroughly and then make sure the soil drains well.
Soil
You can use any succulent potting soil for this particular plant. Just make sure it is well-draining. Overly moist soil can cause the plant’s roots to rot. In order to boost its growth, you can use sandy soil. Alternatively, you can use a 3 to 1 ratio of soil to sand.
To ensure proper drainage, you should use terra cotta and clay pots that help do away with any excess moisture. You can also ensure a sufficient number of draining holes at the bottom of the container. You can add around 25% of pumice to any soil and keep it well-drained and well-aerated. That’s all it takes!
Fertilizer
You will need to feed this plant fertilizer two times a week, especially during the growing season. Ideally, you should use a water-soluble fertilizer. Make sure you dilute this fertilizer to half its strength. During the winter season when the plant isn’t actively growing, feeding it every six weeks should be sufficient.
Temperature
Due to its natural place of birth, this plant thrives in warm temperatures. It needs consistently high temperatures of around 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the growing season. During the winter season, it needs an even higher temperature of around 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Common Problems with Variegated String of Pearls (and How to Fix Them)
The prime issue the Variegated String of Pearls faces has to do with overwatering. Otherwise, it rarely experiences disease, which is another reason to keep this stunning plant. Here are some of the most common issues that this plan experiences with solutions!
Root Rot
The Variegated String of Pearls needs little water. Overwatering it can result in root rot. When you water this plant, you should immediately drain it, possibly within the first few minutes. If the soil remains wet for very long, the roots will rot as the air won’t circulate properly. You would detect root rot by the foul smell coming from the soil or spotting yellowing leaves.
Solution: In such an event, carefully remove and wash the roots to get rid of the moist soil. Proceed to repot the plant and chop off any dead leaves.
To avoid root rot, take the following measures. For starters, make sure you use a well-draining soil potting mix. Some reasons behind slow draining soil include a large pot, high humidity, and the incorrect soil mix.
Use a small pot, use a succulent potting mix with pumice and make sure you drain the soil after watering the plant every 7 to 14 days, or when the soil is completely dry to the touch. Do not overwater!
Mealybugs
While the Variegated String of Pearls does not usually fall prey to most pests, mealybugs still target it. These small, winged insects thrive in warmer temperatures. You would usually spot them around the leaf nodes.
Solution:
To get rid of these insects, prune out the areas it has occupied. You may also apply some alcohol to the areas where mealybugs were present. Use insect spray or some soapy solution to wash the rest of the area.
Repeat this until the plant is completely insect-free.
Aphids
Aphids are green, black, or white insects that take refuge in succulents like the Variegated String of Pearls. Much like mealybugs, they occupy the crevices of the plant, like stem joints and the leaf nodes.
Solution:
To get rid of them, apply a cotton ball soaked in alcohol to the affected area. Proceed to spray it with a disinfectant spray.
Are Variegated Strings of Pearls Rare?
Variegated Strings of Pearls are rare and unique plants. They are often very tricky to grow, and there is a limited number of growers of this plant in the U.S. However, there are some small nurseries that sell this plant online. Fortunately, they are affordable, so you don’t have to worry about procuring one.
How tall does Mexican heather get?
Dirty plugs will cause backfires and slow starting. Not to mention using up more gas while you cut.
Remember all those times your grass was too wet to cut but you did it anyway? All those clumps are stuck to the bottom of your mowing deck and block the proper operation of your mower.
