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Monstera Esqueleto – The Ultimate Plant Care Guide
Introduction to Monstera Esqueleto
Monstera is a tropical vine that originates from the tropical regions of the Americas. There are several types of the Monstera plant. They are usually characterized by fenestrations, which are natural holes in the plant’s large leaves.
The primary reason behind these fenestrations is to acquire the maximum amount of sunlight in a dense canopy.
The Monstera is a genus of the 49 flowering plant species belonging to the arum family, Araceae. Out of these, only a few Monstera types are available as houseplants. The Monstera Esqueleto, also referred to as Monstera Epipremnoides, is a rare and unique indoor plant that will perk up the look of your home, if you manage to properly take care of it.
Features
The Monstera esqueleto is recognized by its large leaves, often bigger than the other types of monstera plants. They can grow up to 2 feet long!
The leaves are a light green color, and exhibit a leathery texture. While all the monstera plants are recognized by fenestrations, the holes in the Monstera esqueleto tend to be bigger, occupying most of the leaves, especially in the juvenile stage. These holes are irregular; some are very big while others are smaller.
As the plant matures, these incisions extend to the borders. The leaves then start to take on a pinnafied appearance, like that of palm tree leaves. While the leaves themselves are large, the plant’s height is short as it typically grows to 1 foot. The Monstera esqueleto rarely flowers, especially indoors. They might bloom in their natural habitat though.
Where Does Monstera Esqueleto Come From?
The Monstera esqueleto, like all monstera species, is a tropical plant. It belongs to the Araceae family, and originates from the cloud forests of Costa Rica.
It is possible to grow the Monstera esqueleto indoors, but you would have to replicate its natural environment, which consists of mild temperature, humidity, and lots of rainfall. Due to its place of birth, this plant has huge fenestrations to survive heavy rainfall and wind.
How do You Identify Monstera Esqueleto?
It’s easy to confuse the types of plants in the Monstera genus. Monstera adansonii and Monstera esqueleto are two of the most popular monstera plants, and they look quite similar at first glance. It’s easy to confuse the two, but it is still possible to tell them apart and identify Monstera esqueleto.
Let’s look at the primary differences between Monstera adansonii and Monstera esqueleto.
Difference in Origin
Both the plants belong to the Araceae plant family, but their places of origin are different.
The Monstera adansonii is widespread in South America and Central America. It is found in certain parts of Southern Mexico and the West Indies. However, the Monstera esqueleto grows in the rainforests of Costa Rica, where it receives and enjoys plenty of rainfall.
Leaf Color
While they may look strikingly familiar at once, you’ll be able to see the color difference between the two upon closer inspection. The Monstera esqueleto is a lighter shade of green as compared to the Monstera adansonii.
The former may also have shades of yellow, but the latter is dark green with a glossy finish. However, the foliage of Monstera esqueleto is still quite beautiful, and will make a pleasant addition to any home.
Leaf Shape and Texture
In addition to the color, the leaf textures of the two plants differ as well. Monstera esqueleto has a distinctly more leathery texture as compared to the Monstera adansonii. The latter has smoother leaves, and a glossier finish.
The leaf shape is more or less the same. The leaves of both the plants are oval, often heart-shaped as well. The perforations make it easier to distinguish between the two based on appearance.
Plant’s Size
Perhaps the most striking difference between the two plants is the leaf size. Monstera esqueleto has significantly bigger leaves than the Monstera adansonii.
The esqueleto’s leaves can grow up to 20 inches long and 12 inches wide while adansonii’s leaves are smaller in comparison, about 15 inches long and about 9 inches wide.
The Monstera esqueleto can develop vines that are up to 2 feet long. The large leaves of the esqueleto allow the plant to survive extreme climatic conditions like heavy wind and rainfall.
Flower Difference
Monstera esqueleto rarely ever flowers indoors, and this is a more common occurrence in its natural habitat. If you spot yellowish-white flowers on the Monstera plant, then chances are it’s adansonii.
When exposed to the proper conditions, these flowers will then bloom into fruit. You can then eat this fruit, which has a sweet, pineapple-like taste.
Fenestration Pattern
The Monstera genus is known for its unique fenestration pattern. But the pattern isn’t the same among all the Monstera types, and there are clear differences between the Monstera esqueleto and adansonii.
Esqueleto has larger leaves with significantly bigger incisions than the other types. Perforations can be seen in both, but the esqueleto has larger and more frequent holes, especially in mature plants. These holes start at the center of the leaf and extend to the tip. As a result, the leaves of the esqueleto are often incomplete, almost in a pinnafied pattern, resembling palm tree leaves.
The fenestrated pattern of the adansonii is characterized by tiny holes, significantly smaller in size. The holes are also thinner, almost resembling a narrow circle. The size of these holes isn’t homogenous but they are consistently flat.
Growth Rate
Both the Monstera species have a vining growth pattern, but the adansonii tends to trail more than the esqueleto. The adansonii has a higher growth rate compared to the esqueleto and provides many smaller vines in a short span of time.
It is touted as the aggressive viner among the Monstera genus, as it is able to reach a height of 2 feet annually. Adansonii has the highest growth rate from April to October.
While the adansonii tends to climb, the esqueleto is more of a ground creeper. It is a hemiepiphyte as a juvenile and an epiphyte when it matures. If you are looking for a Monstera plant to display, the adansonii looks better hanging over a trellis or over a basket.
How to Care for Monstera Esqueleto?
The care instructions for most Monstera plants are similar. They all require less light, moderate temperatures, and almost any humidity conditions to grow and thrive indoors.
If you have your heart set on the Monstera esqueleto, you should know that it is a lot less forgiving than other varieties like the easy-going Monstera adansonii and the resilient Monstera deliciosa.
It requires exact conditions to survive and grow, especially when it comes to humidity. If kept in the right environment, the Monstera esqueleto will prove to be a rewarding plant. Let’s look at the Monstera esqueleto care guide.
Soil and potting
Monstera esqueleto has more sensitive roots that can rot, so it requires highly specific soil conditions. It needs excellent drainage to avoid overwatering.
Ideally, the esqueleto plant should have a pot that is 2-3 inches larger than its root ball. This allows it enough space to grow without holding onto more water than it needs.
The Monstera esqueleto needs high-quality soil that should be well-aerated, evenly moist, permeable, and not overly soggy. The ideal PH of the soil is between 5 and 7. Avoid using poor quality, wet soil that may damage the plant’s roots.
Light
The Monstera esqueleto grows in Costa Rica’s dense rainforest, where the heavy canopy protects it from too much direct sunlight. As a result, this plant needs bright, but indirect light to thrive and grow.
To imitate this picky plant’s natural habitat, you need to place it somewhere it will get lots of filtered light. Be very careful that the plant does not get direct sunlight, especially after 10 am.
Ideally, you should place it in a spot close to an east-facing window, or one that is just a few steps away from the west or southern-facing window. If you notice that the Monstera esqueleto’s leaves are drying out, it may be an indication that it’s receiving too much light.
Watering
Just like other Monstera plants, esqueleto also needs moderately moist soil. Ideally, you should water the plant when the top 2 inches of the soil feel dry to touch. You should invest in a well-draining soil to prevent any issues.
It is best to water the plant once a week, as overwatering can prove counterproductive. The soil should be barely damp before you water it again. You can water the Monstera esqueleto from the top or from the bottom.
Bottom watering is a better option as it helps mitigate the risk of overwatering.
Temperature
When deciding the ideal temperature for the Monstera esqueleto, you should consider the tropical rainforest conditions.
The plant will thrive in temperatures between a range of 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 27 degrees Celsius). While the high 60s may be acceptable, anything above 85 degrees or below 65 can be harmful to the plant.
Humidity
You should be very careful when it comes to humidity levels. Monstera esqueleto loves high humidity, so make sure it has plenty. It is vital if you want to ensure the leaves are healthy. The plant would require high humidity levels of 80% to 100%. If humidity levels are low in your house, you should consider setting up a humidifier near the plant.
Alternatively, you can set the plant in a steamy bathroom as it mimics the humidity levels of the Costa Rican rainforest, where the plant originates. If the plant’s leaves appear dry and crisp, this means it needs more humidity.
Fertilizer
The Monstera esqueleto needs a balance of nutrients to survive and grow. It is these nutrients that will produce the large leaves and the strong stems.
While the plant needs a nutrient boost from fertilizer, too much of it can result in fertilizer burn. It would be best to use fertilizer sparingly.
Use a gentle, diluted fertilizer 3 times a year, and make sure you apply it at a safe distance from the base of the Monstera esqueleto. You should consider buying plant food that is specifically made to suit this plant’s needs.
Pest and Diseases to Look Out For
Pests don’t usually affect the Monstera esqueleto unless the plant lives outdoors. However, this doesn’t mean they are totally immune to pests.
Here are the following diseases and pests that most commonly affect the Monstera esqueleto.
Yellow/Discoloration of Leaves
This is most often caused by an excessive amount of sunlight or water. If you notice the plant’s leaves turning yellow or showing discoloration in general, it’s time to change the water and soil, and ensure it is not receiving too much direct sunlight.
In such an instance, you should cut the yellow leaves when they turn dry.
Root Rot
The roots would rot if the plant is being overwatered. You would notice root rot by the plant’s distorted, yellow leaves and a mushy stem base. You may also notice brown or black patches on the roots.
To cure root rot, you must repot the plant. Make sure you get rid of the previous soil mix as that is most likely the cause of the problem.
Brow Edges
If you notice that the plant’s edges have turned brown and crisp, it may be indicative of poor, low level humidity or lack of water. It could also be caused by sunburn.
Make sure the light, watering, and humidity are correct to sort out this problem.
Curling Leaves
Low humidity and lack of water may cause the plant to droop and curl. This would be noticeable as the leaves will start to protrude inside.
To prevent this, make sure there is plenty of humidity, up to 80% at least and the plant receives water at least once a week or when the soil tip feels too dry.
When Should You Repot Monstera Esqueleto?
If you want to know the best time to repot the Monstera esqueleto, you need to closely monitor the soil. If it feels the roots are popping out, the roots start growing along the pot’s edges and the growth has slowed down, it may be time to repot the plant.
As a general rule, you should repot the Monstera esqueleto every year or two.
How Do You Repot Monstera Esqueleto?
In order to repot the Monstera esqueleto, you need to follow these steps:
- Tip the pot towards one side to unpot the plant
- Gently force the plant out without pulling on the stems
- Place a few handfuls of the soil in the new pot</li
- Put the plant on top of this
- Fill the edges with the potting mix
- Water the plant and top it off with some more of the potting mix
If you want a video tutorial, you can visit this link to see how to expertly repot the Monstera esqueleto.
Propagation of Monstera Esqueleto
Here are the easiest ways to propagate the Monstera esqueleto.
Separating
Unpot the Monstera and separate the plant into two smaller plants, untangling the root balls. Place these two plants into different plants to have several new baby plants. It’s that simple!
Stem Cutting
Locate a section that has fresh and healthy leaves. Now spot the node, which is a small bump on the stem which is on the opposite side of the leaf. Use shares or scissors to cut just below the node so that it is a part of the cutting.
Don’t forget this step as the node will bloom into the root! Now place this cutting into a glass with clean water and some propagation promoter. Place this in a bright place and water regularly. In just a few weeks, you will start to see roots forming.
Is Pruning of Monstera Esqueleto Necessary?
The ideal time to prune the Monstera esqueleto is in spring. It is recommended that you prune it only when the plant starts to become wild.
Pruning will then help get rid of any dead and damaged leaves.
Monstera Esqueleto Buying Guide
The Monstera esqueleto is a unique and rare plant that will really test your indoor gardening skills. Since it is an unusual tropical plant, it is quite costly to procure. Its maintenance isn’t that simple, but with the proper care, it will thrive.
If you want to guarantee the growth of the Monstera esqueleto, you need to be careful that you choose a reliable seller in order to get your hands on a healthy plant.
Since this is an expensive investment, make sure you choose the right product. Locating a reliable seller may take some time and research.
How to Pick a Healthy Monstera
Here are a few signs of a healthy Monstera esqueleto:
- Light green, upright leaves
- Healthy, glossy foliage
- No signs of pest infestation
- No brown, yellow or discolored edges
- Large leaves with enough fenestration from the center to the edges
- No signs of curling leaves
How Much Does a Monstera Esqueleto Cost?
While the Monstera esqueleto is not as rare or expensive as other species like the Monstera Obliqua, it can still be challenging to find.
Therefore, it is important to select a reliable seller. A small Monstera esqueleto will roughly cost you $500.
Where to Buy Monstera Esqueleto?
The Monstera esqueleto can be challenging to grow on your own. You will also need to thoroughly search for a trusted seller of this rare plant. Here are a few places where you can buy this plant:
- Etsy
- Plantly
Conclusion
While the Monstera esqueleto can be challenging to find and hard to take care of, it will produce great reward if it is provided with an environment that closely mirrors its natural habitat. Make sure you buy from a trusted seller to increase your chances of success.
August 9, 2022
How to Clear a Yard Full of Weeds
Your yard should be a clean space for you and your family to enjoy and unwind. However, weeds and brush can quickly take over. This can turn your lovely garden into a complete wilderness! It can be pretty daunting at first glance, but it doesn’t have to stay that way.
While many articles talk about getting rid of weeds and brush, not many of them work, leaving homeowners exhausted. This guide talks about the most effective ways to clear a yard full of weeds and brush as quickly as possible with minimal damage to your garden.
The Most Common Lawn Weeds
We will first look at some of the most common lawn weeds that perpetuate gardens and yards in the USA. These weeds are divided into two categories. They are either troublesome weeds, which means they suck the nutrients from the soil, rendering it infertile for other plants and vegetables, or noxious weeds, which have been touted as injurious to public health and the ecosystem.
1. Crabgrass (Digitaria spp.)
Also known as watergrass, Crabgrass is a troublesome weed that grows in the warm season. You would expect to see it in your yard mid-spring through summer. It germinates during the spring season, when the ground temperature is as warm as 55°F, for at least 4-5 consecutive days.
Crabgrass usually perishes when the temperature becomes cooler, near the onset of the fall season.
Crabgrass is a weak, ground-hugging weed that spreads all over the nearby grass. It creates several hundred seeds during the end of summer, which can then sprout the following year.
A safe, organic way to get rid of Crabgrass is to overseed your yard regularly. This will foster an impenetrable root system, not providing sufficient space for crabgrass seeds to grow. You can also mow your lawn to a height of 3 inches, which will help keep the soil cooler, obstructing the growth of this warm-season weed.
If you spot the presence of Crabgrass, you can simply hand-pull the plants when they are still young to prevent them from setting seeds. If you had Crabgrass growing in your yard previously, rake the lawn to remove any debris and then apply organic corn meal gluten as a pre-emergent herbicide.
2. Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)
Dandelion is a perennial weed that is commonly found in California. They germinate when the soil is moist with a temperature of around 50°F. The germination process is more rapid when the ground temperature is higher, i.e., close to 77°F.
Light is another factor that can catalyze the germination of dandelions. These seeds usually take 14 to 21 days to germinate.
Lovely yellow flowers accompany dandelions. The dandelion seeds quickly spread and require the thinnest turf to thrive. Dandelion seeds are carried by air and need the slightest opening in the ground to spread.
Since dandelion seeds are airborne and can nestle in the barest of openings in your yard, you should ensure regular overseeding to maintain a dense root system. This will prevent the propagation of this weed. If you already have dandelion weeds, you have limited organic options.
The best way is to dig them up with as much of the root as possible. Alternatively, you can use a biological agent called Sarritor, which attacks dandelions without damaging your grass.
3. Black Medic (Medicago lupulina)
Black Medic is a prostrate broadleaf weed commonly found in yards and gardens of the USA and Southern Canada. Black Medic is characterized as an annual species. It lives only one year but leaves enough seeds to last a few coming years. Black Medic seeds germinate in the spring season and can survive in disturbed soil and dry and sunny areas. They are most abundant along roadsides but can be a real bane in home gardens and yards.
Black Medic belongs to the legume family, which means it can fix its own nitrogen. It can thus survive in soil lacking nutrients. This quality gives it the ability to survive on low-mowed lawns. It is a spreading weed that can reproduce from its seed if left untouched. It creates a long taproot that grows deep into the soil. Several hairy stems then grow out from it.
This weed is not tolerant to shade so you can prevent its growth with a dense canopy. You should ensure constant hand pulling to prevent the reproduction of seeds. Hoeing is often futile unless done regularly. The aim is to dislodge their deep taproot completely to prevent re-growth. You can also use a vinegar-based herbicide to curb the growth of the Black Medic.
4. Purslane (Portulaca oleracea)
Purslane is widespread in the USA, and grows in almost every state. It is also touted as a noxious weed in at least one U.S. state. A single Purslane plant is capable of producing almost 240,000 seeds, which can make it very hard to get rid of. These seeds can germinate 5-40 years later. This annual summer plant most often inhabits low-maintenance gardens.
Purslane can reproduce through its tiny black seeds during the end of spring season and also reproduce through its leaves. You may have hoed this pesky weed one day, and found its full re-growth the very next day.
The Purslane weed can live in the soil for years, so you should destroy it as soon as you spot it. The best organic method is hand-pulling. After pulling the plant out, make sure you completely destroy it to prevent it from reproducing vegetatively. You can also try mulching garden beds to barricade the development of seedlings.
5. Quackgrass (Elytrigia repens)
Quackgrass is a perennial weed that belongs to the grass family. It is considered a B-rated noxious. You will find it throughout California in the yards of homes. Quackgrass seeds germinate during fall or spring. These seeds can reproduce more than just once a year, and these seeds can remain workable for a period of up to 10 years.
It has long rhizomes, usually a straw-color, that create a heavy base in the soil, which can then sprout new shoots. This plant reproduces through its seeds.
If any pieces of this plant are left in the soil, it can quickly re-grow. Therefore, you need to completely dig out this fast-growing grass as soon as you spot it. Make sure you dispose of the waste bin instead of the compost pile, where it may start growing again. Ensure frequent mowing of the lawn to prevent this plant from creating seeds. You can also pour boiling water on Quackgrass to kill this plant. However, you may need to reseed the nearby affected areas.
6. Nutsedge
Nutsedge, commonly known as Nutgrass, is a persistent and fast-growing weed that commonly occurs in homes and yards throughout the USA. It can be pretty challenging to get rid of this invasive weed. They derive their name Nut Grass due to their close resemblance to grass. Nut sedges are often perennial, so they perish in the fall as soon as temperatures start to drop. However, their stems and tubers can still exist in the soil and shoot the following spring season.
They can spread through seeds, rhizomes (underground stems), and their small tubers. A new tuber can emerge just 4-6 weeks after the emergence of a new shoot.
You can eradicate this plant by digging it out by hand. Make sure you excavate the root so that it is not left behind in the soil. You can also moisten the soil and apply a sugar coat as sugar can eat the nutsedge, successfully eradicating it.
7. Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea)
Creeping Charlie, also known as ground ivy, is an aggressively growing perennial weed that can be hard to remove once it sets in a garden. This weed blooms during early spring, i.e., May to April. You can easily recognize it from its tiny, purple-colored flowers and bright green leaves with a scalloped border. The Creeping Charlie prefers to grow in shady yards.
This weed is hard to get rid of due to the way it spreads. It is characterized by creeping stems, often called stolons, that grow along the nearby ground. It also spreads via seeds. This weed will re-grow if even a tiny piece of the root, the rhizome, is left behind in the soil.
You should hard rake your yard regularly and consistently pull out this weed if you want to get rid of it eventually. In case of an infestation, you can use a diluted borax solution to apply to the soil. Make sure you do not repeat this more than once a year, as the boron content in borax can be detrimental to your garden.
Manual Weed Removal Methods
Even if it is not noxious, weed can compete with your plants for nutrients, leaving them dry. Weeds can also lead to many plant diseases, which can harm you and your garden. While prevention is crucial to weed management, often, the growth of weeds gets unnoticed. In such an event, you need effective weed removal methods to ensure your yard is safe and pleasant for you to use.
1. Mowing and Cutting
Mowing and cutting are effective ways to hamper the growth of weeds, especially before the weeds bloom. However, this method is only effective for certain species of weeds. Others can re-grow even after the plant has been cut. You can regularly mow and cut your yard as a complementary treatment to the use of herbicide to limit further growth of weeds.
It is imperative that you properly discard the cut and mowed parts of the weed to prevent it from re-sprouting from the root or stem. You should chuck these well away from your pasture or yard. Mowing and cutting will not only ensure a well-maintained yard but also prevent weed seeds from multiplying and growing.
2. Weedeating
Weedeating uses a trimmer to cut grass and vegetation that you cannot reach with a lawnmower. Edging is a common weed eating technique that not only gives the lawn a manicured appearance but also ensures weed removal from tight spaces.
Several weeds collect at the edges of a garden. Over time, they can seep into your fertile soil and take over your entire yard. Therefore, you should make sure you trim around your garden, along the fence lines, and around the posts where weeds might start to grow and ultimately penetrate your lawn.
3. Weed pulling
Weed pulling is an effective spot treatment to get rid of herbaceous weeds. You can try hand pulling. However, if you’re hesitant to do so, you can use tools like weed wrenches and hoes. Weed wrenches are more practical for eradicating larger shrubs, and hand pulling and hoeing are more effective for a smaller or an initial stage weed infestation.
Hand pulling is a highly effective method to limit and remove several perennial weeds. Hand pulling has a relatively limited ecological impact and does not damage neighboring plants or your garden.
You should pull out the weeds rather slowly and carefully to not disrupt the surrounding soil. Disrupted soil can become a breeding ground for specific weeds. Make sure you have the necessary protective gear like gloves if you decide to hand pull, as weeds can cause skin irritation.
4. Aeration of Lawn
At times, the dirt under the plants tends to get compacted. When this happens, plants can stress out, and this gives weed an opportunity to set in. Aerating your lawn can help prevent this, providing the grass a chance to compete with weeds. To decipher if your lawn needs aeration, dig into your soil (approximately a foot deep). If the roots don’t extend beyond 2 inches, this is a sign that you need to aerate your lawn.
In order to aerate your lawn, you should water your yard two days prior. You can buy or rent an aerator and run it over the garden. Finish this by applying a layer of sand over the aerated garden.
5. Mulching
You can mulch your garden beds and around trees to block the growth of weeds. You can use mulch like cardboard, grass cuttings, shredded leaves, wood chippings, or straw to coat the soil surrounding the plants in your garden. This mulch helps block the sunlight, preventing weed seeds from germinating.
It is advised that you use organic mulch. However, you can use inorganic mulch as well. Make sure the mulch coating is a few inches from the plant base to prevent rotting and insect incursions. The idea is to block the food source of the weed, preventing its growth and survival.
6. Organic/Natural Weed Killing Methods
You can use organic solutions to kill weeds in your yard. Bear in mind that some of these may be more effective on some weeds than others.
Vinegar:
Vinegar contains acetic acid, which can kill weeds. Make sure you mix vinegar with a mild dishwasher, so it sticks to the weeds. Vinegar can dehydrate plants, so it is best to apply it to weeds found on pavements and sidewalks, away from your other plants. If you use it near other plants, spray it on the weeds to ensure minimal damage to nearby vegetation. You will see results in just 30 minutes. However, this is not a permanent solution, and weeds may grow back some days later.
Boiling Water:
You can also use boiling water to kill weeds. However, the water should be poured exclusively on weeds as it can kill other plants and vegetation. You may use a kettle with a spout for spot treatment so that the heat and water do not penetrate other plants.
Flame Weeding:
Flame weeding uses intense heat to kill weeds. You can use a propane gas burner to direct carefully controlled heat towards the weeds and not the surrounding plants. This will damage the plant’s cell structure, preventing it from growing. Be careful so as not to burn the vegetation. Flame weeding is most effective on smaller weeds/seedlings.
Clearing Weeds with Chemicals
Some weeds require more aggressive treatment. You can use chemicals to get rid of these pesky weeds and acquire a weed-free garden again. Of course, chemicals do have side effects for your yard, but they are sometimes required as weeds can do more harm than the chemicals themselves.
1. Weed and Feed
Weed and feed is the universal term for several lawn chemicals. The weed component in the weed and feed consists of herbicides, which can kill some leafy weeds. The ‘feed’ in weed and feed refers to fertilizer that helps the yard flourish. This combination helps your yard get rid of weeds, promoting its nutritional health simultaneously.
Weed and feed, when applied to the garden, kills the weed but does not harm the grass unless you apply too much of it. This chemical is available in both granular and liquid forms.
2. Pre-Emergent Herbicides
Pre-Emergent Herbicide is a chemical that hampers the growth of weed seedlings into their established form. They are highly effective for some weed species like Crabgrass. They should be applied to the weed seeds during their germination process.
The application of pre-emergent Herbicide should be when the soil is warm, up to 50-55 degrees, for it to be effective. You should choose a pre-emergent herbicide based on the weeds it can kill. This way, you can make sure your yard is weed-free. Pre-emergent herbicides can damage new lawns, so don’t use them until the grass sets for a few months.
3. Brush killer
As the name suggests, Brush killer can kill hard-to-get-rid-of brushes in yards. Most brush killers contain chemicals like Triclopyr, Fluazifop, and 2,4-D that effectively kill weeds. Brush killers can kill the most invasive brushwood species.
Herbicides can kill plants, so make sure you know how (and how much) to use them. You should study the extent of the invasion before selecting the suitable brush killer herbicide.
Other Tips for Keeping Your Yard Weed Free
Prevention is always better than cure! There are some effective tips all homeowners can use to limit the growth and spread of weeds in their yard. Let’s take a look.
1. Fertilize Your Lawn
Fertilizers can replace any lost nutrients in your yard. This helps foster healthy plants and ensures strong grassroots that provide no space for weeds to set in and reproduce. You should regularly fertilize your garden to hamper weeds from taking a foothold in any bare patches.
2. Reseeding Bare Spots
Lawn repair is essential if you want to prevent weeds from setting in. If you spot any bare spots on your lawn, plant grass seed there, or else it will allow weed to set in. This will also boost the overall aesthetics of your yard!
3. Mow the Grass Regularly
Mowing grass regularly is not just for the lawn’s aesthetic. It can also prevent weed growth. Experts recommend that you regularly mow the grass to a length of 3.5 to 4 inches, as grass at this height can compete with weeds and choke it out.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Can I Use Pre-Emergent Herbicide if Weeds are Already Present?
Pre-emergent herbicide is only effective if used before weeds are already present in your garden. It prevents seeds from completing the germination process. It should ideally be applied to your yard during early spring before weeds emerge. You may use post-emergent herbicide to kill weeds already visible above the ground.
2. How can I clear my yard full of weeds using natural methods?
You can use the following natural, organic methods to get rid of weeds:
- Use mulch like newspaper or shredded leaves to cover the soil. This blocks sunlight and oxygen from reaching the weed and letting it grow or survive.
- Use natural solutions like vinegar and boiling water on weeds to kill them.
- Hand pull the weeds out and dispose of them far away to prevent a re-growth in your yard.
3. How do you kill weeds without killing grass?
You can avoid chemicals to kill weeds. Apply natural solutions like vinegar and boiling water and apply directly on the weed, making sure it doesn’t fall on the surrounding grass. Use spot treatment and pull out weeds individually using your hand or a hoe.
4. What is the best way to remove weeds from a large area?
You can choose to dig up the weeds manually using a garden hoe and then apply a herbicide to the large area. If you don’t want chemicals, you can also use a large quantity of diluted vinegar to spray on the affected area.
Conclusion
Weeds can be detrimental to your garden. Therefore, you should try to get rid of them as soon as possible. Weeds can quickly spread, and then they can be hard to control.
You can use natural solutions like vinegar, boiling water, and flame weeding to kill weeds or use chemicals for larger, more invasive weed infestations.
With these methods, you will soon be able to enjoy a weed-free yard with minimal damage suffered by the rest of your plants.
June 24, 2022
Monstera Obliqua: The Complete Guide and Full Care Instructions
The Monstera obliqua is a stunning, rare plant that is often kept indoors to enhance the beauty of homes. It is often confused with the Monstera adansonni, a more common variety of the same genus, found in several nurseries or home improvement stores.
The Monstera obliqua is recognized by its oval, pierced leaves, and exotic look. Unfortunately, while it is a beautiful plant, it is not everyone’s cup of tea as it’s hard to care for.
This Monstera obliqua is one of the most demanding plants, so you need to know how to properly care for it if you want it to last in your home. If you have a Monstera obliqua at home or plan to get your hands on one, this guide will tell you the most essential Monstera obliqua care tips.
This guide goes out to all the ardent Monstera aficionados to help these beauties survive and thrive!
What is a Monstera Obliqua?
The word Monstera originates from the Latin term Monstrum, which means unusual or abnormal, hinting at the perforated leaves of this plant species. There are 48 flowering plant species of the genus Monstera, some more common than the others.
The Monstera obliqua originates from Central and South America and is used to growing under the dense canopy of Brazilian forests. It is a green climbing plant with a height of just a few meters.
These plants help other plants climb up trees, but their roots can also individually develop in soil. This plant is most commonly known for its foliage and unique appearance, where it has more empty space than leaves.
The Monstera obliqua is classified as an Evergreen hemiepiphyte. The Monstera obliqua has aerial roots that help provide it nutrients and water and assist it in anchoring. Monsteras are common indoor plants, and with the proper care, they can be a great addition to homes.
Why Is Monstera Obliqua So Rare?
The true Monstera obliqua is extremely rare and expensive. It is so unusual that famed botanist Dr. Thomas B. Croat called it a ‘botanical unicorn.’ You would be lucky to find a seller for this rare plant! There are a couple of reasons cited behind the obliqua’s uncommonness.
The Monstera obliqua is a small species, and its leaves are incredibly delicate and thin compared to the Monstera adansoni, which is sturdier in appearance. The Monstera obliqua is rare because it grows very slowly and has short selling seasons. It can take around 12-18 months for its new leaves to appear!
The propagation of the Monstera obliqua is also tricky compared to other members of the same family. It has particular, unique requirements, which contribute to its rarity. The Monstera obliqua has exact temperature, heat, and humidity needs-It requires consistent humidity and warmer temperatures. Out of all the Monsteras, the obliqua is the hardest to keep alive!
First Things To Do When You Get a Monstera Obliqua
Monstera obliqua care is not an easy feat. You need to know how to properly care for this plant if you want it to survive – that alone is a task and a half!
If you are a first-timer, here are a few things you should do as soon as you get the Monstera obliqua home.
Create a Moist Soil Surface
The Monstera obliqua does not need to be watered regularly. It doesn’t need a wet soil surface; it just needs to be damp. When you get the plant, you should touch the first few inches of the soil. If it feels dry, then only should you water it. Otherwise, just wait for the next day and wait for the water to dry out before watering it again.
Use a Custom Organic Soil Recipe
The Monstera obliqua thrives if it has a custom soil recipe instead of the commercial mix that you usually buy. Commercial mixes often have high salt content, which isn’t good for the plant’s roots. To purchase the custom soil recipe, you can ask the seller, and they will be able to procure the ideal mix for you.
Provide Support for Climbing
It is no hidden fact that the Monstera obliqua is a climber plant. To help it do just that, you need to provide climbing support for this unique plant. Basically, give it something to lean against. Then, after you find a place for it at home, tie it to a taller plant or a moss pole to help it climb.
How to Care For Your Monstera Obliqua?
This Monstera obliqua care guide will go over everything you need to know about ensuring your plant gets the treatment it needs to survive and grow. But once you take care of this plant’s temperature, lighting, soil, watering, and humidity needs, you’ll see how beautifully it starts to grow.
Soil Condition
The Monstera obliqua needs the proper soil mix. Without it, you won’t get the expected results. The soil needs to have a slightly acidic PH, and a range between 5 and 7 is ideal for this plant. In addition, you should try out peat-based soil as peat can retain water. The soil should also have some granular material like perlite, which improves the obliqua plant propagation.
Watering Needs
The watering requirements of the Monstera obliqua are slightly tricky. The aim is to maintain sufficient watering levels so the soil should be damp, not too dry or wet. Overwatering or over-drying will damage this delicate plant. You can check the first few inches of the soil with your finger or use a moisture meter to see if the plant needs to be watered. Ideally, the obliqua needs distilled water 1-3 times a week.
Lighting Needs
The Monstera obliqua naturally grows in forests, requiring ample light but not direct sunlight. It needs bright, filtered light to mimic its natural conditions and thrive. If you plan to keep the Monstera obliqua inside your home, set it near a windowsill with a light white curtain shade to shelter it from direct, harsh sunlight that might damage it.
Ideal Temperature
The optimum temperature for the Monstera obliqua is between 59 °F and 77 °F. Ideally, you should strive to maintain a temperature of 68 °F throughout the year. Ensure that overcrowded lights do not raise the temperature during winter and keep the plant away from overly cold areas during summer.
Ideal Humidity
The Monstera obliqua hails from the forests of Brazil, so the ideal humidity levels for this plant are somewhere between 80% and 90%, which replicate its natural environment. However, this plant requires consistent humidity, so you might need to invest in a plant humidifier if you reside in the tropics and have no control over the humidity levels at home.
Ideal Location
Suppose you feel that your house isn’t particularly humid. In that case, you can keep your Monstera obliqua in the bathroom or in a warm conservatory, similar to that of a humid greenhouse. The idea is to replicate the same light, humidity, and temperature requirements that this plant needs to grow. Just make sure that the plant isn’t exposed to the AC draft or radiator that may disturb its temperature requirements.
Fertilization Needs
It is important to know the fertilization needs and schedule of the Monstera obliqua. Ideally, you should use organic fertilizer for this unique plant. Artificial fertilizers with a high salt content will destroy their roots and damage the plant. Instead, you should use a fertilizer, ideally diluted to half strength, and feed the plant once per week while it is growing.
Growth Characteristics
The Monstera obliqua starts as a bushy juvenile. Therefore, it is often confused with the more common Monstera adansonni. However, even though the obliqua grows very leisurely, it can be seen growing into an upright, climbing plant with paper-thin leaves. This is because it needs to anchor itself to climb trees to penetrate the canopy and get sunlight in its natural habitat.
Signs of Deficiency
Taking care of the Monstera obliqua requires precision. If not, it will start to manifest in the form of signs of nutrient and water deficiency. The first sign of weakness in the Monstera obliqua is discoloration. Next, you will see yellow and brown spots on the leaves. The leaves will also droop and wilt or turn crispy if they are not receiving their optimum conditions.
Pruning
The Monstera obliqua does not require much pruning, as the leaves are already very slow to grow. However, this plant should be pruned with sterilized shears only to control and maintain its proper shape and growth. You should also prune it to get rid of the damaged foliage if any.
Flowering
The Monstera obliqua can flower at any time as it does not have any specific flowering season. Still, this possibility is infrequent, especially when the plant is kept indoors. This plant’s flowers are a cream, white color, and about 6 inches in size. The Monstera obliqua qua can also produce fruits with a green spathe. The green spadix then slowly changes colors throughout its development.
Toxicity
The genus Monstera, which includes the Monstera obliqua, is a toxic plant to humans and pets, especially dogs and cats. This plant contains calcium oxalate crystals that are not soluble. They can cause vomiting, drooling, serious oral pain, and swelling around the mouth and tongue in humans and pets when ingested.
Monstera Obliqua Frequently Asked Questions
Here are a few FAQs about Monstera obliqua care that will help you with this stunning plant.
What is the ideal soil for a Monstera obliqua?
Proper soil is a crucial requirement of the Monstera obliqua. Ideally, this plant needs a well-draining, peat-based soil infused with perlite for its water-retaining quality. Steer clear of any artificial soil mix with high sodium content, for it may dry out the plant. Instead, contact the Monstera obliqua seller for an organic soil mix conducive to this picky plant’s health.
What are the water requirements for a Monstera obliqua?
The Monstera obliqua does not need to be watered daily, so it is not a high-maintenance plant in this regard. As a general rule, the Monstera obliqua should be watered 1-3 times a week with distilled water. The ideal soil conditions for the Monstera obliqua are damp. If the first two inches of the soil feel dry, that’s your cue to water the plant.
What type of lighting needs does it require?
The Monstera obliqua is used to bright, indirect sunlight as it grows in the dense canopy of the Brazilian rainforests. Due to this, you should aim for a bright, filtered light without any direct exposure to the harsh sunlight that may overdry the plant. You can keep it near the window with the shade of a white curtain, so the direct sun does not burn its foliage.
What is the ideal temperature for a Monstera obliqua?
The Monstera obliqua has specific temperature requirements that should be followed for its optimum growth and health. The ideal temperature range for this plant falls between 15°C and 25°C. Anything too high or too low will adversely affect this delicate plant.
What is the best location for a Monstera obliqua?
The Monstera obliqua can be kept in your bathroom or a warm patio without nearby radiators.
Conclusion
The Monstera obliqua is an extraordinary plant that needs special care and consideration to grow to its full potential. This plant has several requirements pertaining to the soil for this plant, watering needs, lighting needs, location, humidity levels, and temperature.
If all of these Monstera obliqua care tips are met, this rare plant will quickly start to grow and thrive in your house. While this seems like a huge task at first, you’ll get there in no time with a bit of precision and the correct information!
February 1, 2022
Top 10 Outdoor Toy Storage Ideas Every Parent Will Appreciate

Children are the most precious additions to families. All parents will agree with this! That being said, taking care of children is not the easiest job, and parents will testify to that.
Kids have low attention spans and constantly need to be entertained. For this reason, you might have an endless supply of toys at home.
The problem arises when these toys start overflowing and occupy your room, living room, and yard. If you’re tired of the constant mess, you should seriously consider outdoor toy storage.
This guide will walk you through 10 outdoor toy storage ideas to help parents get more organized and live in a mess-free home without depriving their children of their prized toy collection!
Top 10 Outdoor Toy Storage Ideas
Here is a list of creative outdoor toy storage ideas that parents can use to keep their children’s toys in place and ensure their home is spick and span!
Pegboard Organizer
A pegboard organizer is an excellent option for outdoor toy storage. You can hang this board on the garage wall and save valuable space. This is an effective way to organize your kids’ toys, especially tools and kitchen playsets.
Since everything is hanging right in front of you, it is also easier to spot the toy that your child may want to play with. This makes it a hassle-free outdoor toy storage idea for parents who are tired of sorting out their kids’ toys.
Storage Bins
Image via Scott McNiel from Pexels
When toys start piling up, it is only natural that you’ll probably run out of shelves and cupboards. Every time your child has a playdate, you’re running after them to clean up the mess.
Toys of all sizes may be lying around in your house, patio, and yard.
You can simply transform bins into toy storage bins and paint them fun colors to give them a lively spin! These large storage bins can store all kinds of toys, giving parents a much-needed place for their children’s endless toy supply. You can even label them to get more organized.
Storage Bench
How cool would a storage bench be that can double up as a place to sit? The whole idea of a toy storage bench is to save space and provide a place for the hundreds of toys your child has.
Most toy storage benches also have a lock and key to safely put the possessions inside. Parents can keep this bench in the garage or lawn to serve as a place for kids to sit and play and then keep their toys inside.
Toy Caddies
Toy caddies allow you to keep your home clutter-free. But, unfortunately, toys strewn around the house are not only an eyesore but also pose a hazard to your kid’s safety.
After all, do you really want them to step on a piece of lego? In addition, toy caddies have compartments so you can store items separately for better organization.
For added convenience, get toy caddies with wheels that your kids can easily drag in and out of the house without causing a mess.
Toy Pantry
If you have run out of cupboards, shelves, and other storage spaces, you can invest in a toy pantry. A toy pantry will store many of your children’s toys that are most likely causing a mess outdoors.
Keep this toy pantry in the shed or garage where toys can be stored after a play session. Parents can even create a DIY toy pantry with a chalkboard to label the pantry’s contents to know what toys are kept where.
Rolling Carts
The rolling cart is perfect for outdoor toys and sports equipment that your kids likely have. In addition, the rolling cart is ideal for kids to move around.
After a play date, you can also teach kids to put back their toys and then leave the rolling cart back in the garage where it belongs.
This way, you can ensure better outdoor toy storage and teach your children to pick up after themselves too! Rolling carts also come with compartments, which makes toy organization easier.
Toy Shed
If you have more than one child, you probably have a seemingly endless supply of toys. Unfortunately, managing and storing these toys can be a hassle for parents.
For this purpose, you can invest in a toy shed that will provide an outdoor space for all the toys your children have. You can even start a fun project to build a DIY toy shed to ensure the toys aren’t haphazardly lying all around the garden.
The best thing about toy sheds is that they provide ample space-so all types and sizes of toys would fit there. Build or purchase a toy shed tailor-made for your needs.
Toy Racks
If you have younger kids who constantly get into toys and create a mess, you can invest in toy racks in the garage.
Not only do toy racks allow for better outdoor toy storage, but they also prevent younger children from reaching the toys and creating a mess.
With better organization, toy racks allow you to manage your child’s playtime, which is very important for parents! Paint these toy racks in different colors to add a pop of color!
Bungee Cord Ball Storage
If your children are fond of outdoor sports, you may have many balls rolling around the house. If you’re tired of the constant mess, we have the perfect ball storage solution for you.
Instead of discarding your kids’ old balls every time they buy a new one, simply invest in a bungee cord for ball storage. This enclosed net will keep the balls all in one place and allow you to place them in a rack without them rolling over out of their designated location.
DIY Toy Storage
If you have a bit of creative flair and don’t want to invest in expensive products, you can try out DIY toy storage! You can even engage your children in this project.
You can make all of the products mentioned above yourself to give your kids’ toys a home. All you need is plastic containers, wooden studs, drywall, screws, and tools.
Of course, the equipment will vary with what exactly you’re going to build. We suggest creating a wooden frame and inserting some of mom’s old plastic containers. Now paint these containers and the wooden frame fun colors and add your toys to this perfect outdoor storage space!
Bonus: Top Tips for Storing Your Children’s Toys
If you’re looking for outdoor toy storage, just knowing the right outdoor toy storage ideas isn’t going to cut it. You’re also going to need the right method for organizing and managing the toys to know which toy goes where.
Here are our tips to help parents take their outdoor toy storage organization to the next level.
Know What Toys Your Children Own
The first step to toy organization is knowing what all (toys) your children own. Believe it or not, parents may not even be aware of just how many toys their kids have!
Once you have everything laid out in front of you, you can decide how much storage you need. But before that, you should sit with your child and see what toys they want to keep and which toys they no longer play with and can be handed over to the less fortunate kids.
This teaches your child the importance of sharing and saves you valuable space in the house.
Keep Small Toys Organized
You may not realize, but the small toys are the hardest to organize. It’s always the tiny puzzle pieces, tiny action figures, and small blocks that you’ll find tucked into the sofa sides or under the bed.
Therefore, toy organization should always begin with the smallest toys. When organizing these smaller toys, you should always label the boxes, so you know what is kept where, and your kid doesn’t have to turn the whole house upside down trying to find that piece of the puzzle!
Have a Designated Spot for Large Toys
Since large toys occupy the most space and create the illusion of a mess, you should allow a space for every type of toy.
Keep all the fire trucks on one toy rack, the stuffed animals on another, so you can easily spot the toy your child wants instead of rummaging through others. This makes organization simpler and allows you to keep the rest of the home clutter-free.
Store Toys by Age Group
If you have kids of different ages, you will have an ample supply of toys without any clue what to do with them. One way is to sort toys by age group.
This way, you can create a space where each kid can play and keep their toys. This tactic promotes better toy organization and encourages independent and age-appropriate play.
Encourage Children To Clean Up After Themselves
Encourage your children to clean up after themselves if you want your kids’ toys to return to their designated places after a play session.
When you have allotted spaces for each child’s toys, they should also be told to take the toy to its respective place of storage.
This way, your kids will learn better manners and ensure the house is clutter-free.
Summary
Toy organization is never easy, especially if you have more than one kid at home. However, knowing your children’s toys and designing a place for toys by size and age can make organizing easier to follow.
With the creative outdoor toy storage ideas in this guide, parents can fulfill their dream of a clean, mess-free house without compromising on their children’s need for play.
January 17, 2022
Palm Wood – What Is It and How Can I Use It?

Coconut trees in the tropics have been a source of comfort and joy for people from all around this beautiful world. The fruit they bear, called copra or “meat,” when dried, is used to make things like soap that you can use on your skin or drink as water.
But once they stop bearing fruit, the trees are removed. The trunks cannot be worked like conventional wood because of their hardness, so this product is worthless and becomes a waste material in our society.
Palm trees are iconic for their appearance, with the palm tree trunk consisting of a fibrous grain and black speck. However, the cut across it reveals something like bundled straw-like fibers – not quite wood but still strong enough to be used in building materials and manufacturing.
How Durable is Palm Wood?
Coconut palm wood is first treated with a non-toxic, oil-based preservative and finished with raw oils from nature to strengthen and increase longevity. This renders palm wood adequate for both interior and exterior atmospheres, whether in wet or dry climates.
After all the processing and proper sanding with a palm wood router, it can be passed through lamination, molded, plugged, or made holes into. Palm wood is free from tangles and other flaws in its fiber. So it can be proven durable for anything such as architectural pieces or lightweight furniture.
What Is Palm Wood Used For?
Palm trees are more flexible and durable than other types of wood, such as oak or mahogany. This makes them the perfect material to use when you need something that can take a beating without breaking apart on impact!
Building Materials
In areas where palm trees are plentiful, people use them to fulfill any small-scale timber needs. In particular, indigenous populations frequently use palm wood to make the thatch and roof of houses, given its durable nature and aid in withstanding everyday weather events.
Manufacturers examine the density of the stem to cut out planks or canes or. These are then left to air-dry and are later baked into a kiln. Afterward, the material is sanded with a palm wood router. The fiber is then ripped apart and stitched for the roof coating, and small columns are shaped for attaching hammocks. It is also used for building walls or floors.
Local Small Industry
Palm wood is an important part of small businesses because of its unique appearance.
As palm wood has become more famous worldwide, it has gained appeal among many people because of its distinctive beauty and craftsmanship. Palm wood is used for furniture and can be an option for ornaments, souvenirs, handles of knives, and various other things.
Palm wood is often used for rustic furniture because of its texture, durability, and color variation. However, blending this type of wood with a modern interior design can bring out an unusual look that will surely stand out among visitors.
Defense & Arms
Palm wood has been used for centuries in the construction of weapons. Communities that exist today continue this tradition by manufacturing spearheads using pan-tree fibers, which they believe allows them greater elasticity than common hardwoods such as oak.
Deer hunters use spears made out of palm wood. Other examples include sparring sticks which have replaced wooden swords for fencing practice.
Municipal Construction
The durability of palm wood has made it an excellent choice for construction projects such as bridges and utility poles.
Palm wood is also used in building utilities like walkways or gates because its strength makes them last longer than other materials without sacrificing aesthetics.
Housewares
Palm wood is used in so many spheres that we barely notice it. For example, palm tree trunks are cut up into pieces and turned into architectural elements such as false ceilings, wallboards, or any other type of art piece for our homes.
The people of the Philippines have been using palm-wood tableware for centuries. Plates, bowls, and glasses to giant goblets are made from this durable material. It can withstand the screwing and sanding by the palm wood routers. Manufacturers use hand routers or industrial ones to level the wood or smooth them. This would not be possible if palm wood wasn’t durable enough.
Musical Instruments
Palm wood has long been used for making guitar shells. The oil palm tree is compressed and shaped into the wavy body of a guitar, which has been possible because its high durability makes this material easily spiralized without breakage.
Palm wood is an essential ingredient for business in the South Indian region of Kerala. Small industry owners count coconuts as one of their most vital resources because the trees are used to create traditional instruments such as a Veena (a type of stringed instrument), Sitar (involving metal strings), or an Ektara(a kind table drum).
Wrap Up
If you’re looking for a durable material to use in your next project, look no further than palm wood. Palm trees are known worldwide for being incredibly strong and lasting. In addition, they are much more resilient than other types of woods like oak or pine, which might not withstand wear and tear over time.
If you are looking for the perfect material to use in your next project, look no further than palm wood. This durable and richly textured timber has a remarkable capacity to impress even the most critical eye!
January 10, 2022
How Deep Are Gas Lines Buried? (And Other Utilities)
When you’re digging in your property for home renovation or landscaping projects, you will be running the risk of hitting a gas line, which can lead to a disaster.
So how deep are gas lines buried, and how do you avoid hitting them when digging in your property?
The depth of gas and utility lines will depend on your location because local governments set regulations. Typically, you will find gas lines at 24 inches below ground, while other utilities are 18 inches below ground. The depth of gas lines is measured from the frost line in cold regions.
But there are no shortcuts when digging below ground, and safety precautions should be your number one priority.
This article will guide you through the process to find out exactly where your gas and utility lines are so that you can dig in your property without any risk to your safety or gas and utility services.
Before You Dig Near a Gas Line
Suppose you plan to take on a project at home that requires you to dig, such as digging post holes to put up a fence, creating a garden pond, digging foundations for a garage/shed, or installing an irrigation system.
In that case, you need to find out whether there is a gas line or any other utility line below ground.
You could electrocute yourself, poison others, or even potentially cause an explosion. Not to mention fines for hitting gas lines of as much as $50,000, depending on where you live.
Fortunately, since 2005, there has been a hotline set up in America, where you can dial 811. In addition, they provide a regional service in locating underground utilities across the country.
This is referred to as ‘call before you dig’ or a ‘dig safe’ hotline.
You should call 811 at least three days before digging to allow them to respond and send out service workers to mark utility lines for you and help you identify which parts of your yard are safe to dig into.
Other Buried Utilities
The call before you dig service will help you identify where public gas lines and utilities are. Still, there are some other lines that it may not be able to identify, such as security systems, irrigation systems, landscaping wires, and anything else that a private utility company may have set up.
These buried utilities installed by private companies require you to contact the companies who installed them and pay them a service fee to mark them for you.
Alternatively, utility line locating services use Ground Penetrating Radar (GPR) devices, which use electromagnetic signals to identify buried materials, to find any lines that public and private service providers may have missed.
There are other buried utilities, besides natural gas pipes, that you need to look out for, including Internet and cable TV wires, water and sewerage mains, telephone wires, and other electric service wires.
Common Gas Line and Utility Markings
Now that you’ve contacted the right people to mark your gas and utility lines and you know exactly where they are, you still need to figure out what all of these gas line ad utility markings actually mean.
Also, note that the “call before you dig” service line can only help you identify the utility lines up to the point of connection with your home. After that, they consider any additional lines your private property.
Here’s a look at the standard gas line and utility markings color codes:
- White lines mark proposed excavation sites
- Green lines mark sewer lines
- Pink lines which parts of the property have been surveyed
- Purples lines mark irrigation and water lines
- Orange lines mark alarms and other communication lines like telephone wires and internet cables
- Red lines mark electric lines, and yellow lines mark natural gas, oil, and steam lines
- And, finally, blue lines mark potable water pipes
Can you tell which utilities are buried here?
How Close Can You Dig Near Gas Lines?
To dig safely around gas lines, you cannot assume that the markings that have been set out before you begin your excavation are 100% accurate and dig with blind trust.
When using mechanical tools to dig, safety officers recommend leaving a berth of 500 millimeters (±20 inches) to account for any errors in your technique or miscalculations in locating the specific lines that you’re digging around.
Suppose you’re digging by hand or using horizontal digging practices, which are a bit more precise and easier to stop. In that case, a 15-inch buffer is recommended when digging anywhere near a gas line.
However, now that you know where you can dig, note that you need to dig with care. So, to avoid causing damage while digging, consider the following:
- Dig with a shovel with a rounded or blunt-edged rather than anything with a sharp edge to avoid puncturing lies.
- Break soil away lightly as you approach the marked utility line and ensure that you’re precise in your movements.
- Be vigilant and do not dig under the assumption that the utility line-markings are accurate.
- Also, don’t scare dirt off of the utility line and just leave it be. You’d be surprised how many people puncture lines by simply trying to remove dirt after the line has been found.
- Finally, dig right up to the line itself, not just markings or tape, so that you know exactly where it is and make careless assumptions.
If you follow these steps, your digging project should not experience any significant obstacles, and you can rest assured that your health and safety are not compromised.
Frequently Asked Questions
Most of what you need to know about digging near gas and other utility lines has been covered with the guidelines set out above. But there are a few other common queries that you may want answers for.
Can you Break a gas line with a shovel?
Yes, but gas lines are typically quite strong, made of metal or plastic. They are most commonly thick enough to withstand any damage from hand digging with a shovel.
However, you should still exercise caution when digging by hand. If you strike hard enough or consistently strike a gas line, it is certainly possible to break a gas line.
What is the minimum depth for underground gas piping?
According to building codes in most states in the US, the minimum depth for all piping systems must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches or 305mm. However, individual outdoor appliances, such as lines for lights and grills, are only required to be installed at a depth of 8 inches or 203mm.
Conclusion
Now that you’re more informed about how to dig around gas lines and identify where they are, you’re ready to get started on your next big home project and have one less obstacle to face.
However, always remember that health and safety need to be your number one priority. There is no room for corner-cutting in this process. You should always consult with professionals if you are unsure about anything.
Do not take risks or try to save money because if you do and it results in any mistakes, you could end up costing yourself a lot more in the long run and derailing the entire project.
Sources
How Deep Are Gas Lines Buried In The Ground? | Home X
How Deep Are Gas Lines Buried? (And How to Stay Safe Around Them) | My Backyard Life
How Deep Are Gas Lines Buried? Everything You Need To Know Before Digging Your Yard | Home Eon
How deep are residential utility lines typically buried? | Quora
Safe hand-digging techniques | National Grid
December 30, 2021