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It is essential to check your vehicle for fluid leaks on an ongoing basis. Running your car low on oil could damage the engine beyond repair and cost you thousands of dollars.
If you find an oil leak under your car, in your garage, or on your driveway, your first call should be to the mechanic.
After the car is safely in the service bay, you can work on removing those troublesome stains from the concrete in your garage or the asphalt in your driveway.
Here are some tips to remove oil stains from your driveway or garage floor and how to clean the surfaces.
1. Soak Up the Oil
If you need to remove an oil stain from the concrete floor in your garage, the simplest method is to soak it up with kitty litter.
Use the cheap non-clumping litter, it is very absorbent and easy to use.
How to Use Kitty Litter to Soak Up Oil
Start by laying the litter down on top of the stain.
The kitty litter will work best if the oil or stain is still fresh, but it can work on old stains as well.
For really tough stains, you may need to work in the litter. Get an old 2×4 and mash the kitty litter into the surface.
Allow the kitty litter plenty of time to work.
You may need to apply it several times to soak up all the oil.
After the litter has absorbed the oil, use a broom and dustpan to gather it up. Follow all local regulations when disposing of the oil — you may need to take it to a garage or authorized waste facility to avoid environmental damage.
You can also purchase commercial products to soak up oil stains and remove them from your garage. Still, kitty litter is often just as practical and far less costly. You can always move on to the commercial oil-drying product if the kitty litter fails to do the trick.
Oil-Dri makes a heavy-duty absorber and is available in 25lb bags.
This product is not expensive at all, and 40 pounds should last you for a long time.
2. Remove the Stain
Detergent is a a good oil stain remover
You need to use soap or detergent to lower the water’s surface tension, allowing it to carry the detergent’s molecules deep into the oil stain.
Driveways are tough, but you should start with the least abrasive detergent you have first and work your way up if it doesn’t clean up and get the stain out right away.
First Try to Get Rid of the Spot With Dish Soap
If the oil stain is on your asphalt or concrete driveway, start with a mild dishwashing soap like Dawn or Joy.
Squirt a good amount on the driveway, then apply a small amount of water. Allow it to soak in for a few minutes and scrub the stain away with a stiff scrub brush. You may need to repeat this process a few times.
Wash the area thoroughly with a hose or a pressure washer to remove the rest of the oil stain.
Next, Try Removing the Oil Stains With Detergent
If the dishwashing detergent does not do the trick, you can try a powdered laundry detergent.
Sprinkle the detergent over the stain to absorb it, then add a small amount of water to make a paste.
Scrub the area with a stiff brush and hose the driveway to remove it.
Try Baking Soda if the Stains Still Won’t Come Clean
You can also use baking soda to absorb an oil stain on your asphalt driveway. You may need to apply the baking soda several times to absorb all the oil.
Once the oil has been absorbed and removed, you can hose it off or add water and scrub it clean.
More Extreme Measures
I have no experience using these products on old driveway oil stains, but some people swear by them.
Easy-Off Oven Cleaner – If this can dissolve baked in cheese from 10 years ago, maybe there is something to it. Sample a bit on an out-of-the-way spot first. You don’t want to trade one stain for another.
Microbes – These contains micro-organisms that love to eat the compounds found in oil. From what I’ve gathered, products like Terminator-HSD take multiple applications over weeks to lift stains. It may be an option when all others have failed.
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Be sure to check your driveway and garage floor carefully each time you move your car.
Spotting stains quickly make them easier to remove, but keeping a close eye on your automotive fluids can also prevent a costly breakdown.
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you click through and make a purchase, I’ll earn a commission, at no additional cost to you. Read our full disclosure here. titl Don’t you just hate having all of those bulk drinks you purchased from Costco sitting in the hot pantry and not being ice cold when you want one? What about those family gatherings when you run out of space in your kitchen refrigerator?
You’ve been thinking about buying a garage refrigerator but you just aren’t sure which one will work? Will they be too expensive or break down due to the heat?
Let me stop you there. We love our garage refrigerator. It gets so much use and stores so many drinks the neighborhood kids call our garage the Jiffy Mart. It was one of the best decisions we have made since moving into this house 5 years ago.
I’ll help you find the perfect garage fridge in this article and calm your fears about expense or maintenance.
Questions About Putting a Refrigerator in the Garage
Can you keep a refrigerator in the garage? Yes. Refrigerators work fine in garage conditions. If you live in an extreme climate you may need to make a few modifications to your setup to increase the lifespan of your garage refrigerator.
Can you keep a refrigerator in a hot garage? Yes. I live in the south where the temperatures stay in the 90s throughout the summer. My garage’s average daytime temperature is 95 degrees Fahrenheit.
Can you keep your freezer in the garage? You can keep either a combo refrigerator/freezer or a deep freezer (chest freezer) in the garage.
What is a garage ready refrigerator? Some manufacturers sell “garage-ready” refrigerators which have a few differences from the regular models. These can include extra insulation, higher energy efficiency, and a lower range of recommended operating temperatures. A refrigerator for garage use may sell for slightly more than a normal refrigerator.
Can a freezer be in a cold garage? This depends on how cold we are talking about. Check the recommended operating range to see what the manufacturer suggests. If your garage gets cooler than that for an extended period of time, you may need to purchase a garage kit for the freezer so it will run into lower temperature ranges. The average lower operating temperature of a normal freezer is 59 degrees Fahrenheit.
Does hot weather affect refrigerators? Running your refrigerator in a hot environment could cause premature failure due to increased use of the compressor and fan motor. To increase lifespan in extreme situations (over 100 degrees Fahrenheit):
Purchase an energy efficient model.
Insulate your garage if you can.
Only open the fridge when necessary.
Store gallon jugs of water in empty spaces to help regulate the temperature.
What is a garage kit for a refrigerator?
This image links to Amazon.com
A refrigerator garage kit is a small coil that warms the air around the refrigerator’s thermostat. In cooler weather, the coils will fool the garage refrigerator into keeping the compressor running more often than it would. Shown is a model from Frigidaire.
Pros and Cons of a Garage Refrigerator
Before deciding on whether or not you want to purchase a refrigerator for your garage, take a look at both the benefits and potential negatives of having an extra refrigerator.
Once you weigh both sides of the issue, you can better decide what is the best route to take.
Here are a few of the benefits, drawbacks, and impact of having a refrigerator in your garage.
Benefits
Space for additional food, drink and snack items used on an everyday basis
Storage for bulkier items, such as bottled and canned beverages
Room for prepared foods for special occasions, holidays and family get-togethers
Storage for meals (freezer meals) prepared ahead of time
Freezing and storage ability for large amounts of fresh meat, poultry, and fish
Storage for perishable dairy items in large sizes, such as gallon milk jugs and ice cream containers
Opportunity to actually purchase an updated and optimum efficiency refrigerator
Reduction in clutter from the main refrigerator
Ease of finding what you need–no digging!
Tempting food and drinks are more out of sight, out of mind
Cons / Drawbacks
The possibility of increased utility bills
The second fridge may be underutilized
Placement choice may not accommodate access to the power source
Garage space placement may be too small, crowded or inconvenient for food and drink retrieval
Continual maintenance and cleaning chores with a refrigerator housed in a garage
Could bring on added expenses with possible breakdowns and repairs
Varying or extreme garage temperatures could affect refrigerator cooling function
Best Garage Refrigerator Reviews
Now that you’ve scanned through the positives and negatives of owning a second or garage refrigerator, here are a few reviews on some selected refrigerators, in varying sizes and capacities, which could possibly wind up in your garage.
Frigidaire’s free-standing refrigerator’s abover average capacity enable it to be installed from box to garage with limited effort and no added adaptations.
This refrigerator is really good in garages as it can fit into snug spaces. It is under six feet in height (66 inches), measures 30 W x 32 inches D (including door and handle) and weighs 205 pounds.
Its top freezer does not include a bulky ice maker to clutter its slightly smaller than average 3.9 cubic feet. An ice-maker is an optional upgrade. The freezer includes a single evaporator unit.
The interior of the refrigerator contains LED efficient lighting, four adjustable pullout shelves, which are split to accommodate space for varying containers and food and drink items. There are two clear crisper bins at the bottom of the refrigerator as well as an upper meat/deli bin that keeps fish, meat and cold sandwich deli meats at around 32 degrees.
The lower side door, which can be reversed, has an interior area where storage consists of two long columns with 4 trays, deep enough for 2 liter bottles. There is also a self-contained covered butter/margarine container above the other storage spaces. The upper freezer side door has two long clear storage spaces for frozen juice cans and other narrow frozen food items.
This refrigerator is energy efficient, although it is not Energy Star Certified. It has an estimated yearly energy cost of $43, which, of course, hinges on current utility rates of the local area. The refrigerator comes with a User Manual and there is a limited Frigidaire Warranty, with proof of sale/purchase, for one year from the date of purchase for material or workmanship defects.
What to Look for
Look for the Energy Star or ES rating on any refrigerator that is going to be used in a garage area. This particular Frigidaire model is both quiet and effective at cooling at high and lower altitudes, in and out of a garage. It is extremely efficient in its ability to adjust to the temperature of the area in which it is placed. Its inner lighting function is substantial and allows for easy retrieval late at night.
Though this automatic defrost Danby model is more of a compact or smaller, freestanding refrigerator, it can be placed in a garage for easy access to food, drinks, and snacks. It has a Spotless stainless steel exterior door finish, a 4.4 cubic feet capacity, has a 120V power outlet, weighs 75 pounds and measures 21.1 x 20.7 x 33.1 inches.
The interior of the refrigerator contains three adjustable and sturdy shelves that vary in width as well as a bottom pull out hydrator/drawer for fruit and produce storage. The upper shelf level contains the temperature control setting unit, which does require careful adjustment for the right temperature control for cooling. There is not an open or closed freezer compartment with this particular model.
2 full width and 1 half width adjustable wire shelves
Integrated door shelving with tall bottle storage
CanStor® beverage distribution system
Interior light
Integrated door handle
Reversible door hinge
Mechanical thermostat
Smooth back design
The interior side door contains three curved integrated shelving units as well as an area to the side of the shelves for canned drinks. The bottom shelf is extended to hold larger bottles and other containers, while the other two shelves allow for storage of larger bottles, other containers, and eggs.
Most importantly, the Danby is Energy Star compliant, which means it should save about $32 a year on utility costs, which will depend on local utility rates and actual use. The refrigerator does carry an 18-month warranty for functional parts, and it also comes with a User’s Guide and other information. Though small, this refrigerator holds a significant number of beverage containers and is a good size for use in a one-car garage and other small spaces, like dormitories, assisted living facilities, studio apartments, and motel/hotel rooms.
What to Look for
With this particular model, watch for structural issues, possible noise, freezer malfunctioning, and the possibility of manual defrosting as well as limited air circulation within the unit. It may be necessary to utilize a cooling fan to adequately circulate the air.
If you are looking for a small capacity garage refrigerator, this little and mighty Igloo Tool Box fridge may be a good choice, as it is situated on four caster wheels, which allow for mobility and easy change of placement in a small or large garage, and the wheels can be locked down for permanent positioning.
This mini yet roomy metal and wire fridge has a 3.2 cubic feet capacity, measures 20 x 18 x 32 inches and weighs 48 pounds. The interior dimensions are approximately 22 inches high and 16 inches deep, and the bottom area is 10 inches deep. It does not contain an interior light.
Separate chiller compartment and lockable wheels for easy movement
Can dispenser in the door
Drip tray
2 removable wire shelves
Crisper
It looks like a toolchest!
The fridge contains two shelves that are removable along with a crisper that maintains fruit and produce for a significant period of time. It has a small covered upper freezer area with a drip tray and a small ice cube container. There is no automatic ice maker.
The temperature settings are at the right of the freezer area and are easily adjusted for adequate cooling of drinks and other items. It keeps drinks and other items extremely cold, even in the warmest of conditions, and the unit itself cools quickly from the initial plugin and startup.
Its side door has a vertical plastic wired dispenser for at least 6 regular canned drinks and there are other storage indentations with protective wired closures for bottled drinks and cans. The very top of the side door has a barred storage area that allows for placement of at least 5 or 6 small bottles or canned drinks.
The toolbox appearance is only for looks as there are no workable storage drawers. There are plastic strips across the front that appear like drawer handles.
The fridge’s red color and style does blend in with other tools in a garage workspace and provide a convenient and camouflaged way to keep other hands out of the “food tools.” The unit has a 1-year limited warranty, and instructions and other information that accompany the refrigerator are limited.
What to Look for
For a small refrigerator, which really is comparable to a Craftsman Tool Box, though not quite as red, there could be issues with the holes for insertion of the locking wheels. They are quite small and may have to be further drilled out for proper sizing.
The lack of instructional materials is a little unnerving, but it is fairly easy to set up this fridge. The faux front drawers/handles are deceiving, but the rest of the refrigerator is attractive and fits in with a garage environment.
Damage can occur through possible poor packaging and mishaps in shipping and handling, so it is important to report problems and keep the warranty handy for replacement purposes.
Other Good Refrigerators on Our Runner’s Up Lists
While these don’t meet our “best” criteria, we are constantly on the lookout for refrigerators that will work in garage conditions, straight out of the box or with a garage kit. The following are runner’s Ups and might fit your exact requirements.
[amazon table=”810″]
Final Thoughts on Refrigerator Temperatures
First, all of the refrigerators we review here are easily adaptable to garage placement. Their exterior and interior sizing and their energy saving performance and cooling factors also make them flexible in a garage environment where temperatures can wildly fluctuate.
They all can be utilized in and out of a garage and can handle different capacities and item numbers.
There are a few drawbacks with temperature controls, but most of those hindrances can be overlooked because of the overall quality and efficient cooling factors involved with these three garage refrigerators.
It doesn’t take much to find the best garage refrigerators. All it takes is a little time, effort and online research and you are on your way to a cooler food and drink future.
A huge source of parts for garage fridges (and all appliances really) is Sears PartsDirect. They have tons of parts for all major brands, even if the appliance wasn’t originally sold by Sears. Here is the direct page for their refrigerator section.
If you have any questions about getting a garage fridge let me know in the comments or send me a message. I’ll help as best I can. Thanks for reading this far!
Bugs in the garage can range from a minor annoyance to major financial loss. Nobody wants to work in a garage with flies, mice, or roaches. These pests can ruin your belongings by chewing and nesting in them.
So let’s get rid of all the garage bugs and creepy-crawly things that are trying to make your garage their home.
I’ve given each pest their own section and include some ideas on why they are coming in, how to get rid of them now, and how to keep them from coming back.
A lot of these tips are going to be about reducing the pests reasons for coming into your garage in the first place.
Those reasons are mainly:
Food
Water
Nesting opportunities
Light
If you get rid of these attractions that is most of your battle.
Clean up – Bugs love to make their home with plenty of hiding spaces. Get rid of the clutter, sweep the floor, and remove any spider webs.
Block Entrances – Replace any broken weatherstripping on your garage doors and check the caulking around all windows to stop insects.
Look for Leaks – Don’t leave any open water containers and clean up any spills. Prevent bugs by fixing any drainage issues around the foundation and verify there are no leaking pipes in the walls.
Now, on to the ultimate guide to keeping your garage bug-free.
If you leave your garage doors open all the time expect a bird to drop in. You don’t want bird poop all over your tools, so keep your garage door shut when it doesn’t need to be open.
If a bird does make its way in you can either leave it alone for a while and see if it will leave by itself or use the broom method.
The broom method is finding a long-handled broom and put the bristles close to the bird. Don’t whack it, you don’t want to hurt the poor thing.
What usually happens is the bird flies to the other side of the garage instead of straight out. So, keep up with the annoying broom trick and eventually, he will leave.
Rarely a bird will get so tired of flying around that it will drop to the floor. Gently scoop it up into a dustpan and then place it outside in some protective cover like under a bush or tree line. He’ll get his strength back in a few minutes and fly away.
Mice will destroy nearly anything they can get their nasty little teeth into. Favorite targets of mice are furniture padding and clothes. They love building nests out of these materials.
I keep my garage mice-free by keeping it clean and having things stored up off the floor. A mouse would love to nest in a pile of clothes you leave out in your garage. Keep everything sealed tightly in plastic tubs so they won’t chew their way in.
Also, don’t keep any food in your garage as that will definitely attract them.
If you do get a mice infestation the only recourse I have found helpful are mice traps. The old snap kind that you bait with cheese work well. Put one in the corner along the wall where they travel.
I don’t recommend using poison to kill mice. What happens is they eat the poison and then go off into a crevice to die, leaving you wondering where that stench is coming from.
Get rid of the mice before the next visitor on the list comes calling, the snake.
Snakes. My arch nemesis. I have a phobia of those vile creatures.
Snakes are always on the lookout for their next meal. Get rid of things they eat like mice and lizards and eventually they will go away too.
If one finds its way in your garage I would very carefully try the broom trick. Have an escape plan ready! If it is a venomous snake I will probably suit up like Robocop and go after it with a hoe.
Keeping your grass cut low and taming any wild areas in your yard will help lower your snake population. They will look elsewhere for a meal.
Spiders
My wife is terrified of spiders but they don’t bother me too much. I try not to kill them as they help keep the insect population down.
If you find yourself face-to-face with a spider roll up some newspaper and give it a whack. A shoe also works great.
Be careful when you are putting on boots or gloves that you have stored in your garage. A spider could have made its home there. Shake out the boots and gloves before wearing them.
Keeping your garage clean and free from other insects will help control the spider population. I’ve found they like to lay eggs underneath shelving or furniture that is stored in the garage. If you notice webs, sweep them out and tackle the bugs they are after.
Roaches
Roaches are attracted to wet and damp areas so this may indicate you have a moisture problem. If you’ve got water leaking into your garage look into putting in a french drain. Also, check to make sure your gutter drains are flowing correctly.
Keep your garage floor clean as well.
Hiring a regular pest company will help with insects. There are always going to be bugs trying to get in your house. They outnumber us 200 million to one!
Ants
Ants will come into your garage searching for food and water. Remove those two issues and they ants should go away as well.
If you find a stream of ants running along your garage walls, don’t reach for the spray just yet. If you kill these workers with spray the queen will just pump out more workers. You need to get to her, and that means finding the ant nest.
I live in the south and fire-ant nests are easy to find, especially after a storm. If you have another type of ant infesting your garage the nest might not be so easy to spot. Follow the workers’ line back to the nest and set out some ant killer.
Just spread it around the nest, not on top of it. You don’t want to aggravate them so much they want to leave for another nest. A few days is all it takes to get the workers to get the bait and take it to the queen.
The Orthene brand with that difficult to open lid works great on fire ants. Lasts a long time as it only takes a little bit to kill a mound.
Keep your garage floor clean (I’m starting to sound like a broken record here) and don’t leave out any food.
Lizards
Lizards eat other insects to like the spider, they are coming into your garage looking for food. So their presence usually means other insects are present.
The same rules apply here, keep the garage floor clean and keep as much stuff off the floor as you can. Lizards like to hide in dark places, so if you store things like an old headboard or plywood against the wall they will call it home.
Contrary to their name, these large flying bugs do not eat mosquitos. Too bad. They do freak out wives with their large size though.
Also known as crane flies, these bugs spend their life as a grub eating the roots of your grass. In their flying stage, they are most likely attracted to lights in the garage. Be sure to keep the garage door shut and turn off the lights when not using it.
Grubs can destroy your lawn so I would contact a pest professional to treat your yard.
Moths
Another annoying flying insect is the moth. While not dangerous to humans the larvae can eat your stored clothes.
Keep any fabrics or clothing you have in the garage sealed up tightly in a plastic bin. Moths are attracted to your garage light so turn them off when not in use.
Flies
Flies like to hatch their young in dead things, decaying meat or rotting organic matter. Try and see if there’s a dead animal nearby, like a squirrel outside the garage in a bush. Hopefully, it’s not the bird you chased out earlier!
You can use fly paper or fly traps to get rid of the ones you see now. If they are attracted to your compost bin, be sure you aren’t putting meat into it. Move the bin to a far point in your yard.
Wasps
Having a wasp net in your garage can be a dangerous affair because some people are allergic to wasp stings. Wasps will make their nests almost anywhere as long as there is a sturdy and horizontal base from which they can hand their nest.
They mostly choose a corner where their nest will be protected. If you keep trash in the garage, this could be the reason wasps are attracted to the garage. This is because wasps eat other bugs that are attracted to the trash.
If you have noticed a wasp nest in the garage, wait till night to get rid of it. This is because wasps are less active in the night making it easier to get rid of the bugs.
Purchase wasp sprays in any of the hardware stores. Wear protective clothing, spray the wasp nest directly. You might be required to do this several times to make sure they are all dead. To keep wasps out for good avoid keeping trash close to or in the garage.
Ensure that all fruit and vegetable waste is wrapped in plastic before being thrown into the trash. Limit the water sources for the wasps. You can also set up wasp traps around the garage. We have something similar at the lake and it stays full of wasps.
Hornets
Hornets are quite sizable about an inch long and they are usually very aggressive when compared to wasps. Removing a hornet’s nest can be quite dangerous because they do not just sting once, they sting continually until they are sure the enemy is dead.
Dealing with hornets can be difficult because they are usually located in concealed areas. If the nest is small you can simply use a brick and flatten it. However, if the nest is larger do not use a brick. Purchase a pressurized hornet jet spray.
Jet spray is better because it has greater force and distance, you can, therefore, spray if you are a few feet away. After purchasing spray it at around 9 pm when the hornets are asleep in the nest. Spray directly into the nest and leave the garage. After all the hornets are out, you can safely remove the empty nest.
Hornets feed off food such as rotting fruits and garbage. Therefore, ensure that all trash is kept out of the garage or close to the garage. Also, set up a couple of traps to prevent wasps from reentering the garage.
Bees will get into the garage through small holes probably around pipes or fan outlets. They might be attracted to light if you had left a light on in the garage. Dealing with bees living in the garage can be easy or difficult depending on whether the hive is exposed.
Wait until the evening before spraying pesticide on the hive. If you find activity around the hive the next day, spray it again until they are all gone.
After all the bees are gone, it is time to remove the hive to avoid wax and honey melting and destroying your walls. If the hive was inside the walls, it is always a good idea to call a professional to handle it.
Bees are usually attracted to sweet smells and are repelled by pungent smells. Therefore, if you want to prevent bees from re-entering the garage use bee repellents. Sprinkle garlic powder in the areas that the bees usually congregate.
Close all gaps and other access points using a sealant such as insulation foam. You can also place cinnamon around the garage, this will repel the bees in the future.
Mosquitos
Mosquitoes will invade any space in the house as long as they can find their way inside. The itchy mosquito bite is not the only menace but can also be a health hazard.
To kill mosquitoes that are already in the garage, spray insecticide in the garage. Pay more attention to the corners of the floors and ceiling and also behind any furniture in the garage. Standing water is one of the breeding grounds for mosquitoes.
Ensure you drain clogged garage gutters and puddles of water in the driveway. Also, drill holes at the bottom of recycling bins so that they can drain excess water from the bin. Also be mindful of puddles of water that might be forming on the garage floor because of a roof leak.
To prevent mosquitoes from entering the garage, install a screen door. It is a great way to enjoy fresh air in the garage without inviting mosquitoes. Seal all holes and cracks around the garage that could serve as entry points.
Use mosquito repellent or traps to deter mosquitoes from entering your garage. You can also grow plants that repel mosquitoes such as lavender, basil, and rosemary among others.
Worms will be attracted to your garage if there is excess moisture in the garage. Therefore the best way of dealing with the worms is by using a dehumidifier to remove the excess moisture. You can also use fans around the house to achieve air flow.
Next, you have to seal any entry points for the worms. To do this you need to seal any cracks in the foundation and around cables and wires entering the house. Also, avoid using mulch in your garden surrounding your house.
To deal with worms already in the house you should use pesticides that can be purchased online or from the store. After the worms are dead, ensure you clear them to avoid staining from the rotting carcass.
Roly Polies
Pill bugs usually live and breed in moist and decaying organic materials. Their favorite spot will be in wet mulch and under potted plants. They usually get into the garage under doors and around ground level windows. They get indoors after their habitat gets too wet or too dry.
The best way to handle them in the garage is by vacuuming them before they die. Seal up any cracks and gaps that they can use to enter the house.
You can also get rid of them by removing any soft and decaying materials from around the house.
Conclusion: Its Easy to Keep Bugs Out
Pests in the garage are a real nuisance. Pests can be harmful to the health of you, your family and pets. With some pest control and elimination from their food or water sources, there’s no need for concern with these bugs or other pests infesting your garage.
When it comes to organizing nuts and bolts in your shop, having a reliable storage system is critical. Proper storage helps keep your workspace neat, and most importantly, it allows you to find the parts you need quickly and easily. There are a variety of nut bolt storage solutions available, so it’s essential to find the best fit for your shop.
In this post, we’ll explore some essential nut and bolt storage solutions as well as tips to help keep your shop organized, clean, and efficient, while utilizing all your available store space.
Get your garage organized by starting with the smallest things in it: your nuts, bolts, screws, and nail collection.
What should the nuts and bolts storage solutions provide?
Let’s come up with a few ground rules on what you need from the storage solution before you build or buy one.
I think for any home garage organizational system to be used, it needs to be:
Readily Available
You don’t want to have to special order something from Germany just to clean up the parts in your garage. It must be available at places like Home Depot, Wal-Mart, Amazon.
Efficient
Whatever storage method you use for your nuts and bolts it should be easy to use. You must be able to quickly find the part you need and get back to work.
Reasonably Priced
I don’t think you need to spend a lot of money on this. There are pricey metal drawer organizers that professional shops use, but we are just average homeowners.
$50 or less for the whole solution sounds about right.
How Not to Store Nuts and Bolts
Oh, you need a 3/4″ hex screw? They’re over in the yeller bucket. | image via darkday
It is really easy to set aside a bucket in the garage and toss any spare parts you have on hand into it. Oh, sure, one day you will get that organized.
Maybe you inherited one of these from your granddad. They tend to get passed on from generation to generation.
Don’t store your small parts this way. For one thing, it is painful and inefficient to root around in a bucket full of nails. And if you need a part desperately enough you will have to dump out the bucket and look through the whole thing!
Another reason not to do this is that any water that gets in the bucket will sit there and ruin your parts. You’ll end up tossing a good bit of money out in the end.
Essential Nut Bolt Storage Solutions for Your Shop
Plastic Drawer Parts Bin
Ahh, now we are talking. These drawer bins meet all three of our criteria we set above.
You can identify nuts and bolts right away
Get the kind with clear drawers. That way you can exactly see what’s in there and zero in on the part you need. Don’t paint or tape over them or you will end up playing ‘Let’s Make a Deal’ while you look for a screw.
If you want to get crazy, you can buy a label maker and identify each drawer with the exact part name and size. For example:
Hex bolt: Zinc #10 3/4″ x 2″
#13 x 2″ Finishing Nails
It’s easy to get at the parts
The drawers have a little tab that stops them from coming out all the way, but you can tilt them up to remove them. This feature allows you set the tray down next to your project if you need a lot of them
Doesn’t take up too much room
The average size units with ~20 drawers measure 18″ L x 9″ H x 6″ D so you can set up a few across your workbench.
You can even stack them if you secure them together well enough.
Plastic storage drawer cons
There are a couple of negatives I have found with these plastic bins.
You can’t have an individual drawer for every part.
They aren’t easy to move around.
This image links to Amazon.com
You won’t be able to use these for all of your tiny parts. There are way too many variations for the number of drawers you can fit on your bench.
For some things, you might get away with keeping similar parts in a single large drawer. For example, all wingnuts go in one drawer no matter the size.
Also, I wouldn’t recommend trying to move these bins around. I’ve tried it, and of course, all the drawers open up and the screws and nuts flew out. A good version is the Akro-Mils 24-drawer organizer shown above (check price on Amazon). You can choose from 5 drawer configurations to get larger/smaller drawers.
For portability, I suggest something else.
Plastic trays
Clear plastic parts trays are handy when you need to work on something away from your workbench.
This image links to Amazon.com
They come in all sorts of sizes, but I find the ones around 6″ long work best. I can stick a couple of those in my toolbox and go.
The version shown on the right are Duofire trays, they come in a pack of 4. They come in different colors so don’t worry about the pink. Click here to check the latest price on Amazon.
When using the clear plastic trays to hold your parts, I would suggest:
Keep like items together
Try to put similar items together in one tray. For example, put all your screws in one container, separated out by size. This method makes it easy to find what you’re looking for.
Use them for parts in small quantities
Don’t waste a drawer space in your large standing plastic bin for parts that you only have a couple of. Create a “miscellaneous” tray and put all the weird bits and bobs in it.
Get the kind with removable tabs
If you buy a storage box with the permanent sections, you will end up frustrated. Those sections are usually around 1″ in size, so they will make the trays useless for longer bolts or screws.
Plastic tray cons
If you just pick a random tray at the store, it can be hit or miss whether they are pieces of junk or not.
I’ve found the worst offenders are easy to break. Something about the plastic they use makes them very brittle.
Also, some crappy versions have tabs that won’t stay locked.
There is another portable storage method for bolts and nuts that I have used. It’s the old family tacklebox.
Using a Tackle Box as a Nuts and Bolts Organizer
Tackle boxes can be used to store your nuts and bolts, and are especially useful when you need to work away from your garage.
There are so many variations of tackle boxes that you can find so try to find one with these features:
Removable tray tabs to allow longer sized parts.
Telescoping trays so you can find your nuts and bolts quicker.
The thing about tackle boxes is that they are kind of related to your personality. I wouldn’t presume to recommend one for you. You probably have a couple laying around the garage as it is.
If you need one, Amazon has over 9,000 tackleboxes on their site. Here are a few of the bestselling tackle boxes on Amazon to help you narrow down your search.
Sorting Nuts, Bolts, and Screws: Tips for an Organized Workspace
If you’ve inherited a bucket of nuts and bolts and you are ready to get them organized, there’s no easy way to get around it. This process will take time, and it can get frustrating.
To get through it as quickly and painlessly as you can I would go about it like this:
Break it up
Don’t try to sort a whole 5-gallon bucket in one sitting. Break it up into smaller batches that you can finish in about an hour or so.
You can do this task during your favorite TV show. This job is also perfect for kids. It will help them learn about the different parts and how to estimate sizes quickly. They can also earn a few bucks while doing it.
Have these items ready before you start sorting:
Small batch of parts. About a coffee can size.
Paper and pen
Temporary storage containers
White paper or posterboard
Measuring tape
“Known” sized nuts and bolts for reference
Temporary parts storage
Set up some holding trays, lids, or jars that you can temporarily store parts you are organizing. Have some post-it notes and a pen ready to label them as the parts come in.
Dump the screw pile
Lay down some white or light-colored paper on your coffee table. Don’t use newspaper as the nuts and bolts will blend in with the color.
Dump the pile onto the paper and start sorting.
Use screws and nuts that you already know the size of to use as a reference for the corresponding fasteners while going through the pile.
I like to start with what I can see a lot of. For example, if I find quite a few similar sized washers, I’ll measure one, write down the size on a post-it note and start putting all the same parts in the container with the note.
Eventually, you will get down to the one-offs and weird parts. I go ahead and stick those in the “miscellaneous” plastic tray where they will live from now on.
If you break this task up into multiple batches, it will help you stay focused and not get discouraged. Don’t try to do it all at once.
Final Thoughts
Maintaining an organized and efficient workspace is of utmost importance in any home workshop, and having a proper place for every nut and bolt is a crucial part of it.
The key takeaway here is to pick sturdy and functional storage systems, sort your hardware by type and size, and continuously review and update your inventory. Combining these tips with cost-effective delivery and shipping options will not only save you time and frustration but will also free up valuable space in your home workshop.
I hope this guide has given you a little hope that you can get your small parts under control. Everyone can get organized if they put a little effort into it.
I do think the plastic drawer bins are the best way to organize nuts and bolts. I use them in my garage and my home office and they work great.
If your family is like mine, storage space in the house is prized real estate. You don’t want to spend the money on a storage unit, but you need somewhere to keep all the stuff your family collects.
The perfect answer lies just outside your door. Your garage.
If you optimize the space in your garage, you will be surprised how much you can store in there. Depending on where you live, however, the temperature range in your garage may prevent you from keeping some items in there.
The main enemies of items in storage are moisture, sunlight, and rodents. So you’ll need to protect against those factors as best you can.
Let’s take a look at what items you can store in your garage. I’ll also share what I think are some items that aren’t safe to store in your garage.
Yes, you can store ammo in a garage. Keep it in a tightly sealed container and off the floor in case of high water.
Ammo is susceptible to moisture and heat so try to limit those as much as possible.
Batteries
Nickel-Cadmium (Ni-Cad) batteries are fine to store in an unheated garage. As mentioned above, if you live in a very chilly climate, bring in your cordless tool’s lithium batteries or their lifespan will be reduced.
If we are talking AAA batteries and stuff, find a drawer to keep them in inside. It’s much easier when you need new batteries for the remote.
Beds & Mattresses
You can store a mattress in the garage, but there are a couple of things you need to do first. One, make sure the mattress is clean and dry. Then, encase it in a sealable mattress bag.
Your best bet to help keep the mattresses shape would be to lay it flat. You don’t want it resting directly on the garage floor though. If you have the room, place some 2x4s width-wise down and set the mattress on top.
Amazon sells 5 mil plastic covers. Four mattress sizes are available. Be sure to double check the dimensions of your mattresses before buying.
If you don’t have the room to keep it flat, then on its side is your next best option. Don’t store it longways up as that could warp it.
Beer
Why are you storing beer? Shouldn’t you be drinking it?
I think it would be okay for a little while. And if you are in a perfect 72-degree climate it can probably be stored for years. Any high temperatures and I would say a few weeks at most.
What you need to watch out for is sunlight. That will skunk your beer and make it taste bad.
Bikes
Another easy one. You can store bikes in your garage no problem. If you don’t ride very often I would hang them up on hooks found at home improvement stores, so their tires don’t warp after a prolonged sitting.
Books and Magazines
You can store books, magazines, and other papers in a garage no problem. You do want to watch out for moisture, so keep them off the floor.
I would use a sturdy plastic bin and lay the books flat. If you need to stand them up, make sure to pack them in tight, so they can’t fall over and warp.
Make sure the container is tightly sealed so bugs and mice can’t get in.
Christmas Decorations
Yes, you can store Christmas decorations in your garage without any issues. Just be sure to wrap up the breakables in newspaper or bubble-wrap and place in a hard-exterior container like a plastic bin.
The trick will be to get your fake Christmas tree back in the original box it came in!
Clothes / Clothing / Linens / Blankets
Clothes and blankets are fine to store in your garage. Make sure they are dry and put them in a tightly sealed plastic bin. Even better would be to put them in a vacuum sealer bags and then place in the bin.
Coolers
Coolers are perfect for the garage. Just make sure they are completely dry before putting them away. Otherwise, you’ll find a nasty mold growth the next time you go to use it.
Triple coupon day at the store, huh? Storing boxed diapers in your garage is fine. With the way babies go through diapers, I don’t think they will be in there long anyway. Keep them off the floor to minimize any insect or rodent damage.
Electronic Things
There are some varying opinions here, but I believe you can store electronics in your garage as long as you keep the items packed tight in a sealed bin and away from moisture.
I collect retro computer equipment, and I have old computers that have been in a hot garage for years. The capacitors on those old machines leak even if they are in a climate controlled museum, so no big deal there.
Now, this is for electronics that aren’t turned on constantly. I wouldn’t put a working server rack out in my garage.
Firewood
You can store firewood in your garage, but it isn’t the best option. Look it over before you bring it in and make sure there are no bugs in it. I would place it a few inches from an exterior wall and keep it nicely stacked.
Having an unkempt pile of wood in your garage is just inviting critters to live in it, so keep it tidy.
A better choice would be to put it on some 2x4s, so it is off the ground and lay a tarp over it. Nothing stopping you from using a firewood holder in the garage. It would definitely keep you warmer than trudging throw the snow to grab firewood.
Furniture / Couches
Lay a movers pad over wooden furniture before storing it in your garage. This padding will protect it from dings and nicks.
For couches and other fabric-covered furniture, I would make sure to clean it thoroughly first. Then, let it completely dry and then wrap it with adhesive wrap. You don’t want any moisture getting in so keep these garage items up off the floor.
Gas cans
You can store a small supply of gasoline in your garage *if* you don’t have a water heater in there as well. High temperatures can cause the gas to expand and pop the top off. This leakage allows fumes to spread around and could get to the pilot light of the heater.
If you do keep gas in the garage, make sure the lid is tight. Keep it away from sunlight. I would also suggest having it near the garage door to help with ventilation.
Yes, keeping your gym equipment in the garage is fine. The ideal spot would be a spare bedroom so you are more comfortable and more likely to actually use it.
Keep a fan near the workout machines and crack the door in the summertime. Don’t get heatstroke.
I’m not from that school of thought. We bought a cheap smaller sized refrigerator for the garage that holds all of our drinks.
It comes in handy for overflow food when we have large dinner gatherings as well.
The nay-sayers will tell you that it will shorten the refrigerators lifespan and will cause your electricity bill to go up. These are probably both true but it is too convenient not to have one.
Sports Equipment
Sports equipment can be stored in your garage. I use a large plastic bin to store soccer, tennis, volleyball, and basketball balls along with a hand-operated air pump.
It’s helpful to keep like items together. That way it’s easier to find something when you go looking for it.
No problem here. In fact, I’m sure Mom would prefer you didn’t track your muddy boots all over the house.
One caveat for long-term storage of boots and shoes in the garage: spiders. I have found a black widow in a pair of grass-cutting shoes I left in the garage for a few months. Be sure to bang them out and open them up far enough to see if there are any webs/eggs.
If you are squeamish about spiders, I suggest a tight-fitting container. Just be sure to let the boots dry before storing them.
Tools are a no-brainer. A garage is where your tools are supposed to go.
I use a rolling tool chest to keep all my screwdrivers, sockets and wrenches in. Nuts, bolts, and screws go in plastic drawers. For oversized items, I use hooks on a pegboard. I also keep all my power tools in their cases on metal shelves.
If you are in a deep-freezing climate, you should take any lithium batteries in for the winter.
What things shouldn’t I store in my garage?
The following items aren’t safe to store in a garage due to exposure to temperature extremes. In general, fragile and delicate items don’t belong in the garage either.
CDs and DVDs
Heat will deteriorate your optical discs. I would not store them in a hot garage.
Food and Canned Goods
I wouldn’t store canned food in your garage unless it is 68 degrees year-round in there. Temperatures of 85+ can make it go bad quickly.
Paint cans
We’ve all done it. You don’t want a messy paint can in the house, so you leave it in the garage. A few months/years/decades later you go to open it up, and there is a disgusting blob of gunk in there.
Next time, keep the paint can clean and tuck it away in a closet or your basement.
Photographs
Don’t store cherished photographs in your garage for an extended period. Excessive heat will cause the pictures to stick together and tear up when separating them.
Propane Tanks
Hmm, should I leave a pressurized flammable gas tank in my hot garage? I don’t think so.
I would keep these on the patio near the grill in an attractive deck box.
Keeping your garage in great condition should be your number one priority if you are like me and work and relax while tinkering in the shop. Your garage door is a big part of that and should be in perfect operation at all times.
Are you having difficulty with your garage door? Can’t seem to get it to stay closed? It may be a straightforward problem that you can fix in less than a minute.
Here are some symptoms of the problem:
The garage door goes down then back up.
Your garage door opens immediately after closing.
The garage door keeps going up and down.
Your garage door opens when it hits the ground.
Garage door opener keeps going back up.
It may be your garage door sensor. There are four common problems with garage door sensors, three of these homeowners can fix themselves.
Is your garage door safety sensor blocked?
There is a law requiring garage door installations to include a sensor. This sensor will protect you by not allowing the door to shut close if something is in the way.
Your garage door sensor works by having two photo-sensitive devices on either side of the garage door. If these can’t “see” each other when the door is almost shut, it will send a signal to the garage door motor to open back up.
A careless or rushed parking job can cause the car’s bumper to block the sensor. Sometimes the sensors will be in alignment and just as the door gets close to being shut it will vibrate enough to push one sensor off.
Is your garage door safety sensor off-track?
Sometimes while moving stuff around in the garage, like the trash can, you may bump the sensor. The bump won’t be enough to knock it completely off the track but just enough to be out of kilter.
When you look at your sensor, it appears to be in the right spot. Try to gently push the sensor with your hand to see if it moves. If so, try to see if you can snap it back into place on its track.
Having an off-track sensor can cause your garage door not to shut at all, or it can cause it to close intermittently.
Your close-limit sensor may be set too short
This issue happens less often than a blocked or off-track sensor. There may be another sensor near the motor that tells the unit how far to let the garage door go down.
If this is set too short, your garage door may not shut all the way, or it may slam hard on the ground and go back up.
Look for two screws on the motor base. One will identify downward and one upward. One turn should equal about two inches of door travel either way.
If your garage door “bounces” off the ground you will need to adjust the downward screw by turning it the direction that decreases it.
Some garage door openers have these screws behind the lens that protect the light bulb so if you don’t see it on the side look there.
The following video shows the limit adjusters and how to set them correctly.
You may have a damaged safety sensor or cut wire.
If nothing is blocking your sensor and it is lined up correctly, you may have a defective sensor or a cut wire.
If you have a broken sensor or the wire from the sensor is cut or frayed you will need to get it repaired by a professional.
You may have to leave your garage door open until you can get it repaired.
I do NOT recommend using the manual release cord to lower your garage door. Your garage door is extremely heavy and can hurt or kill you if you try to lower it by yourself.
General Garage Door Maintenance Tips
Some easy maintenance todos will keep your garage door operating for many years.
Keep the chains and tracks lubricated. Use a specialty spray lubrication on your garage door tracks and chains so the motor will have an easier time pulling the door up.
Ideally, you should not hear any loud noise from the friction of the rollers moving along the track. If you hear squealing, it is time to lubricate.
Check and tighten up the hardware Your garage door will open and close hundreds of times every year. All those ups and downs will vibrate and loosen some parts. Check all your bolts and brackets and tighten where needed.
Does the weatherstripping need to be replaced? There is a rubber seal along the bottom of your garage door. This seal helps keep water out of your garage. Moisture is a common draw for pests to your garage.
Replace the weatherstripping if it is broken or chipped. This should be checked regularly.
If you have the good part of a Saturday morning to devote to replacing it, Home Depot or Lowes sells universal garage door strips.
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Garage door problems like these are fairly common, and thankfully sometimes easy to fix. Just last year my wife called and told me “the garage door keeps going up and down”.
I was able to walk her through the step of straightening a sensor. Seems the kids got a little too rowdy with the soccer ball!
I hope this article was able to help you get your garage door back “on track”.
If the oil stain is on your asphalt or concrete driveway, start with a mild dishwashing soap like Dawn or Joy.
If the dishwashing detergent does not do the trick, you can try a powdered laundry detergent.
You can also use baking soda to absorb an oil stain on your asphalt driveway. You may need to apply the baking soda several times to absorb all the oil.
Before deciding on whether or not you want to purchase a refrigerator for your garage, take a look at both the benefits and potential negatives of having an extra refrigerator.
Tackle boxes can be used to store your nuts and bolts, and are especially useful when you need to work away from your garage.
