Yard and Garage

Author: Lisa Page

30 Days to Killer Curb Appeal – Week 2
Week 2 – The Front Porch
This week we will narrow our focus and put a critical eye on the front area of the house. This area has such a major visual impact on curb appeal, and there are several things you can do to bring it up a notch.
Day 9 – Remove Algae or Mold from Front Porch
Today I want you to walk around your front porch, stoop or whatever you have for your entryway. Examine the edges and all those tiny crevices for any mold, mildew, or algae.
Concrete or tile can be cleaned using a pressure washer; however, I’d be hesitant to use that strong of a device on wood.
To protect the wood, I recommend using a mixture of bleach and water along with a scrub brush.
There are special detergents advertised, but I haven’t used them yet, so I can’t comment on whether they would be effective.
You should be able to do a final rinse using your regular garden hose. You just don’t want to use too high of a setting and have the paint peel off.
You may need to touch up the paint on your porch or maybe give it a whole new coat to freshen it up, even if you did not find any mold or mildew.
Day 10 – Get a New Front Doormat
If you’re like me you probably don’t even know the state of your current doormat. This is one of those items that we see so often we don’t really see it.
Take the time now to examine the current state of your welcome mat. It will most likely need to be cleaned but replace it if it is frayed, torn, or doesn’t clean up nicely. This is actually one of those items where you can show off your personality a little bit.
You can find a mat that conveys sincerity, simplicity, or a killer sense of humor. In fact, other than “Go Away,” I don’t think you can wrong whatever you finally select.
Day 11 – Update Front Door with a New Coat of Paint
As you can tell, front doors are a key player in getting that fantastic curb appeal. There’s no need to be satisfied with the original factory color.
Doors come in all the rainbow colors now, including yellow, blue, and even violet! Now, I’m not saying to go ahead and paint your front door neon orange just to make a statement. But I’ve seen mundane houses become superstars with the right front door color.
There are actually lots of paints made specifically for front doors, don’t require priming, and are weather-resistant. They also come in a variety of colors, so you should not have any difficulty finding one that is complementary to your house.
If you are hesitant to just go straight into a bright red, try a softer hue of blue, grey, or yellow. Don’t forget about the trim around your door, which may need a refresh as well.
Day 12 – Spruce Up Front Entrance with Large Potted Plants
We all know that potted plants are a great way to spruce up that front entrance but the style of your house will cause to choose a particular item. You have the option to just frame your front door with a large potted plant on either side or have a variety on your front steps.
If your house is a country farmhouse, you may choose a variety of wildflowers in a barrel type of look. Or, if your house is in a traditional suburb, you may want to select a taller, more narrow planter graced with a fern or similar plant.
And finally, if your house is quite large, a small potted tree or topiary on either side of the front door may be more appropriate.
Whichever you choose, just remember symmetry is extremely important!
Day 13 – Add Wreath or Door Hanger to Front Door
Adding a wreath to your front door used to be a holiday-only option, but now the front door looks naked without something on it. Wreaths come in a variety of colors and textures, and even themes. I’ve seen nautical themes, woodland themes, and even a unicorn wreath!
Of course, wreaths are not the only option these days. Large monogrammed door hangers using either your last name or just one letter are extremely popular. You can find one in a wonderful bright color or design that suits your personal style. Regardless of which option you choose, you’ll be sure to make an impact!
Day 14 – Replace or Upgrade Your Porch Lights
Admit it, you probably pay little or no attention to the lights on your front porch. In fact, if I asked you to describe them right now, you would struggle to even remember the color.
They are just one of those items that we see every day and ignore. So take some time during both daylight and nighttime hours to view your porch lights. Be sure to take a walk to the edge of your yard and view them from that distance as well.
Are they attractive? Do they create a warm, comforting glow? Are they large enough? If your answers are no, you will need to replace them.
If you’re okay with the style to take some time to remove the glass and clean it if necessary. Make sure all those cobwebs are gone as well. Also, be sure you have the correct type of bulb for outdoors and the proper strength.
If you do need to replace the lights, you can generally find some on sale. Be sure to look at specialty lighting stores for discontinued items and not just the big box stores. If you’ve been wanting to upgrade from that traditional black sconce, now is the time.
Day 15 – Create a Welcoming Seating Area
There is something so inviting about a seating area on your front porch. If you have a large Southern-style porch, you may have the classic porch swing along with a few deep-seated plush chairs.
If your front porch is small, you may only have room for a small chair or table. But, regardless of the size, a beautiful seating area is a huge factor in getting the curb appeal you’re looking for.
Don’t feel constrained to use only white or other muted colors in your seating area. You can always add a colorful pillow or two as well as a brightly colored potted plant to stand out.
And while symmetry is always essential, if your front porch is too small to house two chairs and a table, feel free to use a bench with two small tables or potted plants on end. You can still achieve the balance and aesthetic you’re looking for in even the tiniest of spaces.
Be sure to read the other articles in our Killer Curb Appeal series.
- Week 1 – The Big Picture
- Week 2 – Front Porch and Facade
- Week 3 – Mailbox and ancillary areas
- Week 4 – Final touches
May 6, 2019
30 Days to Killer Curb Appeal – Week 1
Week 1 – The Big Picture
Welcome to Week 1 of our 30 Days to the Yard and Garage Killer Curb Appeal Challenge! Remember these are organized on a daily schedule so as not overwhelm you in your quest to improve your home’s curb appeal.
This does not mean that you could not group these to accomplish over a few days or one weekend if that fits best within your schedule. Weeks 1 and 4 will each contain 8 days in order to cover the entire month of April.
Day 1 – Declutter your yard
This is a great first step towards getting the curb appeal that you’re looking for. Take a quick tour through your yard and side areas and identify items that need to be thrown away, replaced or reused somewhere else.
Do you have broken flower pots or garden statues still taking up residence in your yard? If so, these need to be tossed or replaced.
Have your children started using the entire front yard like a giant storage area? If so, create a space in the garage or backyard to store bikes, playsets, and other toys.
This is a great first step because it’s pretty simple and extremely low cost!
Day 2 – Trim Limbs and other Overhangs
As you stand on the front edge of your yard and look around, do your trees seem a little “unkempt”?
If you have ivy or other climbing plants do they appear to envelop your entire house? If so, you need to do a little trimming to maximize the aesthetic benefit that these trees and plants offer.
Some tree limbs may not need to be removed entirely. If the limb itself is very long and appears to hang down because of the overall weight, you may be able to just remove part of it. Try removing some of the outer branches on the limb with a pole saw or pruning shears and see whether that is sufficient.
If you have ivy or vines on the exterior of your house or on a trellis, use a pair of hand pruners or loopers to pare back any excess growth. This is also a great time to reposition the ivy and correct training.
Day 3 – Clean Gutters
This is one of those tasks that everyone hates. And I have to admit that I have let my own gutters get so bad that I’ve actually had a small tree sprout in one!
While a ladder is all most of us need to reach our gutters, there are special tools that will allow you to clear out those sagging gutters and still remain safe. Be sure to check the downspouts as well for any twigs, leaves or other debris.
Day 4 – Stain and Seal Exterior Wood
If you have any porches or decks, now is a good time to stain and waterproof them. Depending on when they were last pressure-washed you may need to do that prior to any staining or sealing.
Be sure to get between the individual boards to maximize the life of your deck. And don’t forget to cover all four sides of any posts or railings along the deck or stairs.
Day 5 – Pressure Wash Driveway and Walkways
Most of us don’t really think about our driveway and how it needs to be maintained. Over time though weather and daily use will take its toll and create a layer of dirt and grime that negatively impacts your entire home’s landscape.
Using a pressure washer, along with degreaser and detergent, can make that dirty driveway look like new again. And if you have a brick driveway, the difference will be even more dramatic once that grout is spic and span. Also, be sure to clean any walkways or patios as well.
Day 6 – Identify Any Rotten or Decayed Wood
Take a survey of your home’s windows, door frames and extended roof areas such as soffits and fascia. Do you see water damage, dry rot or other significant defects? If so, this is your chance to repair or replace any damaged wood.
Epoxy or wood putty can be extremely useful for smaller repair jobs and is extremely durable. Before using though, be sure to clean the remaining wood and remove any mold or fungus.
You should also try to determine the source of the water damage or dry rot so that it can be addressed and avoid any future issues. Unfortunately, some wood may be beyond repair and will require replacement.
Day 7 – Trim Hedges and Shrubs
It’s time to take a look at all the hedges and bushes across your yard. Don’t look at them individually but rather as components in the overall picture that you’re trying to present. Are you using them to create a border?
Is the overall number and placement of the hedges or bushes symmetrical and pleasing to the eye? Because they are often large enough to be seen from a distance, shrubs and hedges may have a disproportionate impact on your home’s curb appeal.
A straight line with sharp edges is a classic look for hedges and fairly easy to maintain. Shrubs may require a little more artistic element when pruning and trimming to create round or flared shapes.
Day 8 – Mow the Yard
This is a task that all homeowners are comfortable with but I saved it until the end of the week. A freshly mowed yard can make such a change that you may have decided these other items were not necessary.
The combined effect of mowing the yard plus the steps taken above should really show you the potential of your house’s curb appeal. Be careful to not cut the grass too short and try a new mowing path to avoid creating a specific wear pattern in your lawn.
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Congratulations! You’ve made it through the first week – and it is definitely the hardest week because it covers such a large area. Over the next three weeks, we’ll go more in-depth on specific focus areas.
- Week 1 – The Big Picture
- Week 2 – Front Porch and Facade
- Week 3 – Mailbox and ancillary areas
- Week 4 – Final touches
Be sure to check back to finish out the 30-day curb appeal challenge!
April 2, 2019
Make the Most of Your Yard with These Small Backyard Ideas

If you grew up in a home with a big backyard, you probably have fond memories of hanging out with your friends and playing games after school and on the weekends.
When school was finally over for the year, and you had the whole summer to enjoy. That backyard became the center of your universe, running through the sprinklers or swimming in your own pool.
When the holidays rolled around, the entire family was able to gather in that huge backyard to enjoy barbecues, games and other festivities.
Now that you are all grown up and have a home of your own, you want to recreate that backyard experience for your own kids.
Unfortunately, your own backyard is not quite as spacious as the one you remember from your youth. In fact, some would go so far as to say your small outdoor living space is downright cramped.
So what do you do? Moving is not an option, and neither is invading your neighbor’s land searching for more outdoor space.
If you want to give your kids the same outdoor experience you enjoyed as a child, you will need to make the most of the space you have with these small backyard ideas.
Create a Targeted Play Area
You do not have to let a lack of space interfere with your summer fun or stop you from making great memories with your own kids. One great small backyard idea is to create a targeted play area that allows you to make the most of the available space. There are plenty of things you can do to make your small backyard more fun.
If your cramped quarters do not provide room for a full-size pool, set up a small splash pool for the kids to enjoy.
Create your own wet and wild summer fun with a sprinkler you can attach to a garden hose.
You can even set up a T-ball practice area for the young ones to enjoy. Setting up a small tent or canopy can serve as a fort or secret space.
I remember creating a hidden fort in the space between some bushes and the fence.
A swing or hammock can also be used to add activities to your small space. For example, even if there is not enough room for a traditional swing, you can easily hang a climbing rope for older children to use.
There are many ways to optimize your small backyard and create a play area your kids will love.
Clear Out the Clutter
Letting clutter accumulate in your small backyard will only make it look smaller and more cramped. Set up a strict no-clutter zone outside your home along with a dedicated spot inside the house or garage for sports gear, shoes and other things that would otherwise clutter up your yard.
Be sure to pick any clutter that does accumulate outside your home, and encourage the kids to do the same. You will be surprised at the difference decluttering your yard can make.
Add storage
Adding an outdoor storage bench can optimize your available space and keep the things you use all the time within easy reach.
Whether you use your storage bench to stow your gardening gloves or stash the kids’ sports equipment, this is one small addition that will help you make the most of your small backyard.
Set Up a Container Garden
If you grew up with a big backyard, you may have happy memories of gardening with your parents and watching the beauty of nature unfold throughout the summer.
You may not have room for a full-size flower or vegetable garden in your small backyard, but that does not mean you cannot recreate this special memory with your kids.
Container gardening is an excellent alternative to a traditional garden. Many different crops do pretty well in cramped spaces.
Whether you grow a garden full of ripe red tomatoes on the patio or an abundance of colorful flowers on the deck, container gardening is a great way to relive the days of your youth and teach the kids about nature in all its forms.
Create a Cozy Seating Area
Everyone can use an area in their backyard where they can sit with friends and family to watch the night sky or enjoy a drink on a hot summer’s day.
A cozy space
A few chairs and a table are all you really need to create an intimate space in a small area. Feel free to add a few special touches with potted plants or colorful cushions.
Another option would be to build your seating area around a nice fire pit. There is truly something special in sitting around an open flame – even if it’s just you and your dog.
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Nothing can make your tiny backyard into an enormous outdoor living space. Still, there are plenty of things you can do to make the most of the room you have available.
The tips and ideas listed above can help you optimize your outdoor living space and make new memories with your own family.
March 23, 2019
Christmas Decoration Storage Ideas – Storage For Ornaments Wreaths Lights
The holiday season has passed, and you’re ready to start the new year! And although putting up the tree and all the trimmings is great fun, none of us really like the cleanup and storage.
But if you want to preserve your ornaments and other Christmas decorations for another holiday season, we’ve got some tips on how to safely store everything until next year. It may require a little extra effort, but you will be glad you did so in the end.
Ornament Storage
These are generally your most prized Christmas possessions. You probably have a collection of beautifully decorated globes as well as hand-made gifts from your kids while in elementary school.
To protect them you’ll need to find a container that will keep them secure without damaging the glitter, appliques or painted fingerprints.
Here are a few options to protect these ornaments for next year.
Keep Original Packaging for Christmas Decorations
I try very hard to save the boxes that my store-bought ornaments come in, particularly if they contain a separator for the balls.
I know that they will fit and it’s generally easy to stack them in a larger container.
Egg Cartons
Some ideas for smaller ornaments such as bells or angels are empty egg cartons or small storage bins. These are also easy to stack and store in another container. Be sure to include tissue paper, felt or something similar to give some extra protection.
Commercial Storage Boxes
There are multiple options to purchase a commercially-made box designed specifically for ornament storage.
I would certainly consider this if you have delicate vintage ornaments or perhaps some unique ornaments from vacations or trips overseas. Some of them are even multi-layered and can hold 60+ ornaments.
Holiday Wreaths
You may be thinking that wreaths are so bulky that there is no easy way to store them. Actually, I don’t find it that difficult.
My favorite method is pretty easy. I wrap them in old towels that have seen better days and then stack them in a large plastic storage tote along with the door hangers.
If you have hat boxes laying around, they are also good. Some people have taken elaborate steps to create a special hanging wreath storage, but I’ve never felt the need.
There are commercial wreath storage bags if you want to shell out a few dollars.
Tree Storage Ideas
Obviously, if you’re a traditionalist and love decorating a live tree each year, this is one item you can skip. I always swore that I would never get an artificial tree but my parents gave me one a few years ago, and I was hooked!
I did have to find an alternate storage method though because the cardboard box didn’t make it after the first year. It’s difficult to find a plastic tote large enough to hold a 7-8 foot tree.
You will most likely need to purchase a specific tree storage bag (Amazon has quite a few to choose from) to maintain its shape and avoid compressing it. This is especially important if your tree has built-in fiber-optic lights.
Lights
Lights are especially tricky to store given how easy they are to get tangled. I admit that I’ve gotten so frustrated with them that I’ve just thrown them in a box in a giant ball. But boy how I paid for that the next year.
There are several ways to store lights and keep them tangle free.
Old Wrapping Paper Roll
This is my preferred method now and really quite simple. You need only an empty wrapping paper tube or two.
I take the tube and cut a slit in either end.
After this, you simply insert one end of the lights in the top slit and then begin to wrap the lights around the tube.
You can use the bottom slit to secure the cord end of the lights. If it is an unusually long string of lights, you can add a second tube fairly easily.
I have done a double wrap around a single tube, and you have to take care not to have the lights themselves intertwine. It can be done, but it takes a little more effort to wrap them such that the bulbs alternate on each row.
Cardboard Spools
A similar process is to use a large piece of cardboard to wrap the lights. The cardboard inserts that come in the boxes of Christmas gifts are well suited to this.
You’ll need to make a slit at the just like with the tube and then begin wrapping the lights vertically around the cardboard.
The good thing about this method is that you can easily find cardboard in different sizes so you can have one for smaller strings as well longer strings of lights.
Clothes Hangers
Almost everyone has some extra hangers lying around so put them to use this post-holiday season. And if you have smaller sets of lights, this will be a pretty easy solution.
You’ll need to make sure the hangers you use have the notches on top for straps. Just attach one end of the lights around the strap notch and then begin wrapping vertically around the hanger. If you have a rack or bar in your attic just hang the hangers there until the next holiday season.
You can secure them with clear plastic wrap as well for easier long-term storage.
Holiday Gift Wrapping Supplies
This is probably one of the easiest items to store because of the number of off-the-shelf solutions readily available.
I personally use a large red zippered tote that I bought during one of my daughter’s school fundraisers a few years ago.
It can easily hold about eight rolls of wrapping paper and has interior pockets to keep scissors, tape, ribbons, bows, etc. I love that all my supplies are in one bag and I can carry it easily wherever I need it.
Another option that I have seen is re-purposing an old garment bag. This is a pretty simple storage solution for your gift wrap and other supplies.
Yard Decorations
Outdoor decorations are going to be the most difficult to store by far. They are bulky, vary in size and are generally more expensive than any of your other holiday decorations.
You want to make sure you protect your investment.
Original packaging
One of the easiest options would be to reuse the boxes that your decorations came in as those boxes would be of a regular size and easier to store.
Smaller boxes could be consolidated into a larger tote and stored in an attic or basement.
Plastic totes
Except for some of your largest decorations such as animated reindeer, plastic totes would do well for most decorations.
Nutcrackers, blow-up Santas and nativities should be able to be housed in large 18-30 gallon totes or large cardboard storage boxes. I would put some bunched newspaper, moving pads, or other material in between the items to protect them from inadvertent damage.
Christmas Cards
Although most people choose to throw away any cards they’ve received after the Christmas holiday, you may have sentimental reasons to keep them.
Perhaps it’s a hand-made card from your child they’ve created for you in school. I have one card that I have kept for over 10 years because it has my daughter’s little handprint from when she was in kindergarten.
Storage Boxes
Several keepsake-type boxes or holiday-themed tins are attractive and are perfect for housing your Christmas cards.
You can then store the boxes in a closet and pull them out when you’re ready to travel down memory lane.
Bound Book
If you look on Pinterest, several crafters have bound their cards into book form using hoops and spiral bounding. If you’re looking for something more artistic that you could leave out on the coffee table, this might be an option for you.
I hope that these ideas are useful to your organizing efforts as the holiday season comes to a close. Ensure your Christmas decorations are safe and sound until next year’s holiday season.
January 1, 2019
How to Care for Succulents: A Beginner’s Guide

Is your green thumb under-performing? In recent years, the growing of succulents has gained considerable popularity. This is largely due to their attractiveness, the ease of caring for them and the huge variety of species available.
The name ‘succulent’ comes from the plants’ fleshy organs, which are used to store up water in arid conditions. Cacti are a well-known type of succulent.
Since they’re built to survive long periods of drought, these plants are far more low-maintenance than your average houseplant. If you have a busy schedule or simply don’t want to commit to nurturing a more demanding plant, succulents may be for you.
However, if you want your plants to thrive then it’s important to know how to take care of them properly. Here an overview of some of the key things to be aware of when growing succulents.
Exposure to Light
Different species of succulent require different levels of light exposure, so it’s best to research the species you’re growing to find out how much light they need. You can also try moving your plants around to see where they do best.
All species require a reasonable amount of bright natural light; if your succulents are indoors, put them on a windowsill or in another location that gets plenty of sunshine. If they’re outdoors, choose an area that isn’t too shady. It’s best to avoid leaving them in direct sunlight, however.
There are a few signs you can look out for to determine whether your succulents are receiving the correct amount of light. If they begin to develop a ‘bleached’ appearance, then their tissues have been damaged; this indicates that they have been exposed to too much light.
Conversely, if they start to grow towards the sun, with their leaves becoming more widely spaced, they are not getting enough light. In this case, move them to a sunnier place and prune away the excess growth. If your plants have a shriveled appearance, this could also be a sign that they are not getting the right amount of light.
Temperature
Since succulents are desert plants, some people assume they prefer hot temperatures. However, nighttime temperatures in the desert are very low, so colder nights should not pose a problem for your plant. In fact, succulents prefer it if there’s a significant difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures.
The ideal daytime temperature range for succulents is 70-85°F, whilst their preferred nighttime temperature is 50-55°F (though they can easily survive in temperatures as low as 40°F). However, this only applies if the plants are dry – succulents don’t do well in wet conditions. Additionally, if nighttime temperatures frequently rise above 65°F then it’s unlikely that your succulents will bloom. Daytime temperatures have less of an influence on their growth and development.
Optimal temperatures alone are not enough – most succulents also need good ventilation in order to thrive. For this reason, they should be placed somewhere where air can freely circulate around them, and plenty of space should be left between plants. Again, there are differences between species when it comes to temperature tolerance, so do some research if you’re not sure what conditions your plant prefers.
Watering
Though succulents are built to survive drought, they still need to be watered. However, the regularity with which you should water them depends on the time of year, since they are ‘in season’ in the summer months and ‘out of season’ in the winter. They grow whilst they are in season and lie dormant in the colder months.
If your succulents are in season, they should be watered around once a week – perhaps more frequently for larger plants. Thoroughly wet the soil around your plant so that water drains out of the holes in the bottom of the pot.
Be careful not to overdo it – the soil should be wet rather than soaked. It’s important to use pots with good drainage when growing succulents – otherwise, they may fail to grow and eventually die. If possible, use a soil mix designed for succulents, as ordinary mixes may not allow water to drain properly.
When your plants are out of season, they can be watered as rarely as once every other month. You can even wait until the soil has totally dried out before watering them. Watering more frequently is likely to lead to rot, which is the commonest reason why succulents die.
If your plant feels abnormally soft and its leaves have lost their color, it’s likely that it has been over-watered and rot has set in. You can determine whether this is the case by taking it out of its pot and looking at the roots. If they’re dead and brown, they are rotting and should be cut off. You should then move your plant into drier soil. If the rot has advanced too much, your succulent may not recover.
If a plant stops growing whilst it is in season, or its leaves begin to fall off, it needs to be watered more often. Brown spots on the leaves are also a sign that a plant isn’t receiving enough water.
Propagation
Many species of succulent can easily be propagated. There are numerous ways of doing this, including taking cuttings, offsets, division, and grafting.
Taking cuttings is perhaps the quickest method, producing new plants which are genetically identical to the original one. This should be done when the plant first comes into season, which is usually in the springtime. It’s important to sterilize the tools you use in order to avoid infection.
Cuttings
Many species can be propagated by cutting away a piece of the stem just below the joint. There are some species can also be propagated from a single leaf.
The cutting should be left for a couple of days to allow the cut end to seal – this makes a fungal attack less likely.
It can then be planted in a suitable potting mix such as fine grit. If you’d like to give a plant to a friend, taking cuttings is the ideal way to do it.
Offsets
Some species of succulent have small plants growing at the base of the main plant. In other species, miniature plants may grow on the leaves, flowers or stems. These small plants – known as offsets – can be removed, left to dry and then potted. Taking these away is beneficial for the parent plant as the offsets would otherwise consume a lot of energy and resources. This can slow down or even halt the plant’s growth.
Division
Some species can be propagated by division of their roots. The first step is to take the plant out of the pot and remove any excess soil. Depending on the species, it may naturally break up into cuttings, allowing you to simply select one with good roots. Otherwise, you will need to cut away a section of root.
This should be done when the plant is not in season – otherwise, it may lose too much sap and become weakened. After a few days, the root can be potted. Be careful not to water it too much until you see some signs of new growth.
Grafting
Grafting is a more complex method of propagation, which involves combining two compatible species of succulent to produce a new plant. Certain species can only be propagated in this way. Usually, the two specimens must be in the same genus for grafting to be successful.
There are a few different ways of doing it, but because of its relative complexity, it may be best not to attempt it unless you have some previous experience of plant propagation.
There are several other methods of propagating succulents, which you can read up on if you’re interested.
Feeding
While in season, succulents should be fertilized in the same way as other houseplants. Fertilizer can be added every other time you water your plants.
At the start of the growing season, use a balanced fertilizer to help stimulate their growth. After you’ve done this a few times, switch over to a fertilizer which is low in nitrogen and high in potash. You can even buy fertilizers which are specifically designed for cacti and succulents; these are likely to be the safest option for feeding your plants.
Succulents should not be fed at all between October and March, as they do not grow in the colder months. Doing so is a waste of feed and may even be detrimental to the plant.
Conclusion
Succulents are very simple to take care of; if you follow a few basic guidelines, you’ll soon be the proud owner of some thriving plants.
Once you’ve got to grips with the basics, you can fine-tune your approach by looking into other factors, like the best type of live soil for your plant. Remember to keep an eye out for pests like aphids and slugs, which can eat away at your pride and joy.
And finally, be aware that the needs of different species do vary – research the type of succulent you plan to grow to ensure you’re fully able to meet its needs.
December 23, 2018
A Guide to Bringing Your Plants Indoors for the Winter
Fall is upon us, but your lovely landscape plants don’t have to fall victim to the cold and snow. Many outdoor plants can be moved indoors so you can enjoy their beauty even when the world is white outside.
When your plants are in easy-to-move containers it makes the job of moving plants indoors much simpler, but even plants in the ground can be potted and brought inside for the fall and winter seasons.
Tropical plants need to be brought indoors when the nighttime temperatures get down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit while native annuals may survive until frost sets in. Bring in the non-tropical plants two weeks before your areas first average frost date.
Plan ahead to bring your outdoor plants indoors, so they will have time to adjust to their new environment.
Choosing a Suitable Indoor Location
Before taking your plants out of the ground, decide if you have room in the house for them, and where you are going to put them! Sunny windows are good locations for indoor plants, but avoid letting the leaves touch a cold window or they could become damaged.
Humidity Considerations
You’ll want to keep your plants out of drafts and away from heat registers. Bring your plants in before you have to crank up the heat in the fall so they can gradually get used to the heat’s drying effects.
The dry winter air inside our homes can wreak havoc on plants, so a well-lit bathroom or laundry room can be the perfect place for your plants. Provide extra humidity by misting the leaves daily.
You can also increase the moisture levels inside your home by placing the plant’s container on a shallow tray lined with small stones, adding just enough water to cover the stones.
Toxic Plants
Some plants are toxic and may be a threat to pets or small children who might chew on them. When you choose to bring potentially toxic plants indoors, you must find a location for them where house pets and children can’t get at them.
Children might also hurt themselves on containers with sharp corners or pull plants off of tables, so choose safe locations for your indoor plants.
Tips for taking Plants Out of the Ground
Plants that have been dwelling in the earth should be carefully dug up, preserving a good portion of the root ball and disturbing the roots as little as possible.
Re-pot the plants in adequately-sized containers that have drainage holes and drip trays. Use potting soil with a light helping of compost instead of natural earth, to prevent pest problems.
Debugging Houseplants
Outdoor plants, whether they’ve been in the ground or a container garden, may have pests (such as aphids, spiders, or ants) that you need to eradicate before bringing the outdoor plants in.
You don’t want the pests to continue to cause damage or infest houseplants you may already have indoors. Before repotting your outdoor plants, check for pests.
Even if there are no visible signs of infestation, it would wise to treat the entire plant, the soil, and the container with insecticidal soap. Some plants are sensitive to soaps, however, so check that the particular variety of plant you are repotting can withstand this treatment.
Transplant Shock
It’s important to pot or repot plants as quickly as possible once the roots are exposed to air. Any plant that has been re-potted may go through a period of root shock even when the roots have been handled carefully, so don’t be too discouraged if your plant becomes droopy for a short time; this is to be expected.
As the plants accustom themselves to their new living conditions they will return to their former glory.
Cut Back Large Plants
Cutting the plants back slightly before bringing them in will help keep their size under control, and will encourage new growth. It will also be an advantage in the spring since you won’t have to replant a huge and unwieldy plant.
Food and Water Requirements
During the cool seasons, many plants naturally become dormant or grow at a very slow pace. You won’t need to fertilize your plants November through March while they’re enjoying their new home.
Watering should be done infrequently (only when the soil appears dry) but water the plant deeply enough that water begins to seep out the bottom of the pot into the tray.
Acclimating Your Plants to Their New Environment
Many plant lovers think they have a brown thumb when they buy gorgeous plants from a greenhouse, only to have the plants shrivel up and die. This isn’t usually the fault of the plant lover, just the plant’s natural reaction to a change of environment.
Greenhouse plants are grown under perfect conditions of lighting and humidity, and when they are suddenly brought into our dry, dark homes they don’t always adjust very well!
To acclimate your sun-loving outdoor plants to the dim environment you need to keep them in a shady spot outdoors for a week or two after they have been re-potted (if they were already in containers that are easily moved, just move the whole container).
This will help your plants adjust to the change in lighting conditions before you move them indoors.
In spite of your careful efforts, your outdoor plants may wither and droop when you move them indoors. Leaves may yellow or bottom leaves may drop off.
Don’t give up hope!
Trim the plants back as necessary, keep the humidity levels up and the plants in a well-lit location, and they should recover without any lasting damage once they are used to their new home.
When Spring Comes Again
Acclimate your plants to the increasing sunlight gradually. Too much sun, too quickly, will cause the leaves to burn and unsightly yellow spots will appear.
Put the potted plants outside in a moderately shaded area for ten to fifteen minutes the first day. Gradually increase the amount of sun exposure the plants receive over a period of a few weeks before putting them back in the ground.
October 27, 2018