I went to see my dad this weekend. He’s working in the yard, as usual, laying sod to fill in some bare spots. But, in addition to the sod, I see that he has purchased a dozen or so of his favorite plants – Mexican Heather.
My dad absolutely loves this plant. My parents travel a lot since they are retired and he says that no matter how long they are gone, these plants never die.
About Mexican Heather
Mexican heather (Cuphea hyssopifolia) is also referred to as False Heather. This is because it is not the Bonnie heather that grows up in the Scottish Highlands.
As the name implies, it is native to Mexico and some neighboring Central American countries. It does well here in Alabama as we’re zone 8 and the zone range for this plant is 8-11. Texas, Florida and other southern states should be a good environment for this plant as well.
The plant is an excellent groundcover that flowers for most of the year. Depending on the variety, you can have white, pink, or light purple flowers. We have always chosen lavender flowers.
Mexican heather is a beautiful choice for your mailbox area, borders along walkways, or as filler in your flower beds. The small, delicate purple flowers can add an excellent pop of color to your landscaping.
How tall does Mexican heather get? The maximum height outside of a container is generally a little over 12-24 inches tall, and it will spread out a bit.
Is Mexican heather an annual or perennial?
Mexican heather can be either a perennial or an annual. In our experience, my dad has always had to replace the majority of the plants each year. I think our zone is on the cusp so if you live elsewhere, you may be able to have the plants come back year after year.
How to Grow and Care for Your Mexican Heather Plant
Zone
The hardiness zones for Mexican heather plants are geared towards warmer climes.
The range for these plants is 8-11, which covers the majority of the southeastern United States and extreme western edges of California, Oregon, and Washington.
Sun
Choose a location that will get full sun to partial shade. If Mexican heather receives too much sun, you will notice that the foliage will start to fade a bit.
However, the plants are pretty hardy, so it should not be difficult to find a location.
Soil
You will want to plant Mexican heather about 2-3 feet apart in soil that drains well.
It will need to be irrigated frequently but should align with your regular watering schedule for your lawn. Of course, during the summer you may need to water more often.
Moisture Level
Feel the soil about an inch or so below the surface. If the soil is dry to your touch, it is low on moisture.
Mexican Heather Fertilizer Requirements
Add in a bit of slow-release fertilizer when you first plant your Mexican Heather. The granules will slowly release nutrients into the ground during the growing season.
You can also use a water-soluble plant fertilizer or compost to feed your plants.
The amount of fertilizer you use on your Mexican Heather is dependent on how often you water it. When you water your plants daily during the hot summer, you may want to feed them with a bit more fertilizer.
Pruning
My dad lets his Mexican heather plants grow pretty freely.
However, if you have planted them along a walkway or other border area, you may need to prune them to keep them in check.
Insects
As I’ve noted before, Mexican heather plants are super hardy, and we’ve never had any issues with insects. However, others have pointed out that Mexican heather can be pretty attractive to flea beetles, so be on the lookout for them.
They are tiny black insects with long antennae, and they love to chew holes in plant leaves. If you find them in your garden, there are both professional and homemade remedies to get rid of them.
Summary
If you are a novice gardener, or maybe just a busy one, I think you will find Mexican heather to be a great choice. It’s an attractive, hardy plant with an extremely long blooming period.
As plant enthusiasts, we strive to provide the best care for our green companions. Watering is a vital aspect of plant care, and one question that often arises is whether tap water is beneficial or detrimental to our beloved plants.
In this blog post, we will delve into the topic, exploring the factors that determine the suitability of tap water for plant growth. So, let’s get to the root of the matter and uncover the truth about tap water and its impact on plants.
Understanding Tap Water Composition
To evaluate the effect of tap water on plants, it’s crucial to understand its composition. Tap water usually undergoes treatment processes to make it safe for human consumption. These treatments may include disinfection, filtration, and the addition of chemicals such as chlorine or chloramine. While these processes ensure water safety for humans, their impact on plants varies.
Chlorine and Chloramine: The Culprits?
Chlorine and chloramine are commonly added to tap water as disinfectants to eliminate harmful bacteria and pathogens. However, these chemicals can have adverse effects on plants.
Chlorine, even in low concentrations, can damage the delicate roots of plants and hinder their ability to absorb water and nutrients. Similarly, chloramine, a combination of chlorine and ammonia, can be toxic to plants, affecting their growth and vitality.
Therefore, it’s important to take these factors into account when considering tap water for your plants.
The Case for Tap Water
Despite the potential drawbacks, tap water can still be used to water your plants with a few precautions. Here are some factors to consider:
Water Source
The quality of tap water can vary depending on your location. Some areas have naturally soft water with fewer additives, while others may have harder water containing minerals like calcium and magnesium.
Plants generally prefer slightly acidic to neutral pH levels, so if your tap water is alkaline or hard, it might be beneficial to use alternatives.
Aging and Aeration
Allowing tap water to sit for a day or using aeration methods such as using an air stone or pouring water back and forth between containers can help dissipate chlorine and reduce the levels of chloramine. This process helps make tap water more plant-friendly.
Watering Practices
Adjusting your watering routine can also mitigate the potential harm caused by tap water. Avoid overwatering to prevent waterlogged soil, which can exacerbate any negative effects of tap water.
Additionally, focusing on watering the soil directly, rather than the foliage, reduces contact between the chemicals and the plant’s sensitive parts.
Seeking Alternatives
If you have concerns about using tap water or notice adverse effects on your plants, alternative water sources can be considered. Rainwater collection, for example, provides plants with natural and chemical-free hydration.
However, it’s important to ensure the cleanliness of rainwater collection systems to avoid potential contaminants.
Final Verdict
In the end, the impact of tap water on plants is influenced by several factors. While tap water treated with chlorine and chloramine can have negative effects, the suitability of tap water for your plants ultimately depends on your location, water quality, and your plants’ specific needs.
Being aware of the potential drawbacks and employing appropriate watering practices can help minimize any harm caused by tap water.
Conclusion
Watering our plants is an art that requires knowledge, care, and consideration. When it comes to tap water, understanding its composition and taking precautionary measures are key.
By being mindful of the water source, allowing for aging or aeration, and adjusting our watering practices, we can ensure that tap water becomes a viable option for plant hydration. However, alternative water sources like rainwater collection can be an excellent substitute
Before we jump into the killing, let’s try to understand how the weed killers actually work to control weeds.
Pre-Emergent Herbicides
Pre-emergents herbicides prevent new seedlings from sprouting. The corn gluten (or cornmeal) mentioned below leaves a chemical barrier on the soil surface that interferes with sprouting seedlings. They won’t help you right now, but can help control the weed population later.
Systemic Herbicides
These herbicides work by being absorbed by a growing plant leaf. The chemicals travel down throughout the plant to the stems and roots. They interfere with the weed’s ability to make food, preventing growth. These can lead to the death of the whole plant.
Contact Weed Killers
Contact weed killers work by, you guessed it, contacting the plant’s surface. They are usually faster acting than systemic herbicides and can show results in hours. The roots of plants hit with this weed killer will continue to live on. This can work on weeds that spread via seeds, but not any that have runners.
Homemade Weed Killers – DIY Care for Your Lawn
Most of the weed killers below you will already have in your house. You can be outside slaying the garden invaders today.
If you have ever grown vegetables, you know some varieties need soil pH to be a perfect level. That’s where our first weed killer, lemon juice, comes in.
Being acidic, it will make the plant’s environment inhospitable. Sprayed plants should wilt down with a couple of days.
As a side benefit, your garden will smell like pledge and you will drive away a few mosquitoes.
A drawback of lemon juice is that it is more expensive than other methods.
Vinegar
Vinegar has a similar pH value to lemon juice but is a heck of a lot cheaper. It’s around $3-$4 for a gallon for 5%. More potent formulas are on the market, but a good coating of everyday food grade should do the trick.
You can easily whip up a vinegar-based weed killer. You just need to simply mix white vinegar along with a few drops of dishwashing liquid and transfer the solution to a spray bottle. Spray the mixture directly onto the weeds, targeting their leaves and stems.
Be sure to coat the offending plant well, and it will start withering in a day or two.
One great benefit of using water as a weed killer is there is no increase of chemicals in the soil after you are done.
This method works best for small weedy areas. And of course, this is also the cheapest method. Just don’t wear flip-flops like this guy.
Corn Gluten
Corn gluten, as mentioned above, is a pre-emergent herbicide. Corn is a greedy plant and releases a chemical that inhibits the growth of other plants around it. Black walnuts are notorious for doing this as well.
It will only work on weeds spread by seeds, not perennials that come up from existing roots.
For corn gluten to work, there are a couple of things you need to keep in mind.
Application Rate: For 60% protein corn gluten meal, anything less than 20 lbs per 1000 square feet will just be a fertilizer for your lawn. If you purchased 20% protein meal, you will need to apply at a rate of 60 lbs per 1000 square feet.
Timing: You need to apply this in early spring before the weed seeds start germinating. If weeds are already growing, its too late.
Moisture: If you aren’t getting any rain, you will need to run your sprinklers to make it spread.
Other weed suppression methods
Flame Weeding
This method is used in agriculture. As you would expect, holding a propane torch next to a plant will kill it. However, I find it has limited applications to weeds growing in cracks of driveways or walkways for residential use.
Time and good knees are all you need to save your garden.
But for this to be truly effective, you need to make sure you get the roots as well.
Mulches and Ground Covers
Weeds need sunlight and warmth to grow, and mulch and other ground covers deprive them of both. You’ll need to spread your mulch at a depth of at least 2-3 inches to suffocate those dastardly weeds.
Let Grass Grow Taller
Cutting your grass down to the nibs just creates a perfect environment for weeds. Instead, raise your mower blades to at least 2 inches so that your grass can grow tall and proud. Not only will your yard look lush, you’ll be helping to stop the weeds in their tracks.
Edging
You can keep weeds from gaining a foothold in your garden with edging. Putting up a border between your lawn and the flower beds keeps grass out and weeds by extension.
Cut the Weeds Before They Go to Seed
Weeds have seeds, and regular lawn maintenance is crucial to remove any weeds that sprout up. Removing the weeds before their seeds can spread and sprout is half the battle.
Not exactly natural methods
Rubbing Alcohol
Another handy household item is isopropyl rubbing alcohol.
Add about two teaspoons of rubbing alcohol into a spray bottle, and you’ve got a handy, portable spray that kills weeds.
Get the weeds wet but don’t over saturate.
Salt
If you want to go total Armageddon, you can break out a saltwater solution of 1 cup salt for every 2 cups of water.
But remember, salt works by starving the plants of water. All plants – not just weeds.
So use it as a last resort and only if you’re not planning on growing anything there later.
Tomatoes’ changing color is usually an initial tell-tale sign that a potentially concerning health issue is surfacing and may need quick intervention to preserve the harvest. Common color changes include variations of yellow to brown and, in some cases, purple.
Three potential causes usually surface when it comes to tomatoes developing white spots. Let’s delve into finding out more about them.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a specific tomato plant disease that’s quite challenging to avoid since insects and air currents carry it from plant to plant. Several fungi types cause this disease common among tomato plants.
While this disease is prevalent in hot and dry or humid conditions for long periods, its fungus can survive the winter in compost and plant debris. That makes them more resilient, only coming out when the conditions are favorable.
It’s challenging to notice powdery mildew starting since it shows up as a powdery white discoloration on leaf undersides, eventually spreading to the stems and covering the entire plant. Fertilized plants with new and rapid leaf growth are also subject to infection by the fungus, and this disease can also spread to the fruits and leaves.
This fungus feeds on plants’ cells, causing stem and leaves to discolor without falling or detaching. However, this fungus won’t likely kill the plant but can vastly reduce yields or even impact the taste of tomato.
Therefore, it’s recommendable that you act promptly, treating powdery mildew once it shows up to get it under control if you want to eliminate it.
Bio fungicides like neem oil or safe commercial fungicides are the best at getting rid of this disease on edible plants. They don’t usually harm plants with toxic chemicals.
You could also cut away diseased plant parts weekly until the problem is no more. Your tomatoes will then have a chance at normal development once the powdery mildew is under control.
Best Ways to Prevent Tomato Powdery Mildew
Discard or burn powdery mildew-infected plants instead of including them in your compost.
Ensure proper spacing of your tomatoes, perhaps 18 to 24 inches apart, for the best results.
Avoid watering the leaves directly since they have a knack for attracting and spreading fungi. Although costly, drip irrigation may be ideal and worth the hassle, even for your long-term ambition of growing tomatoes.
Try using Sulphur spray, dust, or a bio-fungicide every week if the conditions are hot as a preventative measure for tomatoes typically affected by powdery mildew.
Ensure that the plants get sufficient sunlight, preferably 6 to 8 hours.
Increase air circulation by regularly pruning the plant using sanitized tools. Also, ensure that you also sanitize these tools after the procedure.
Regularly fertilize your tomatoes while ensuring that you don’t overdo it since that can invigorate leaf growth and increase the vulnerability to fungus attacks. Fertilizing your tomatoes lets them stay disease-free, stress-free, and healthy!
Sun scalding results in white spots on tomato leaves due to lengthy exposure to sunlight. This condition typically occurs on young transplanted tomato leaves not used to the harsh heat and sunlight outside the sheltered greenhouses.
The condition jeopardizes the plant’s overall health since the sunburnt leaves dry out, turn brown and eventually fall off.
If they’ve already developed, sun scalding can manifest as white blistery patches on infected fruits.
Best Ways to Prevent Scalding on Tomatoes
Since your tomato seedlings may not be sturdy enough to withstand the challenging garden conditions, hardening them can come in handy. Therefore, gradually ease your seedlings into such conditions 7 to 10 days before planting by starting in the shade outdoors and giving them a little sun each day. Leave the seedlings at under 500 F the night before transplanting them in the garden the following day.
However, please take note of their response to this new ambiance. Please subject them to this process a little longer if they’re stressed and wilted. If they’re happy and healthy, please proceed.
Caused by fungus phytophthora infestants, late blight manifests as significant brown and white spots on leaves. It’s highly contagious and can kill your plants in days.
So, the only best way is to remove and obliterate diseased plants, ensuring that you don’t dispose of them in your compost since they can spread the disease to your garden.
Late blight is more rampant in wet weather and mainly occurs in autumn or summer. In humid conditions, you may see a silky white mold on the leaf underneath, and the pale green spots on the leaves tips may morph to brown and black. This condition also affects the fruits, showing a white mold and brown spots on green fruit.
A once-a-week copper fungicide or bio-fungicide application can help prevent this disease.
Don’t plant your tomatoes adjacent to your potatoes since they both come from a similar nightshade family and are susceptible to similar conditions. These plants savor similar nutrients, and planting them closer to each other fosters competition, weakening them and increasing their vulnerability to late blight.
You can also learn more about this disease by checking out USABlight, a website tracking Blight Outbreaks across the country. The fungus Phytophthora (Meaning “Plant Destroyer” in Latin) causing Late Blight is incredibly destructive. Therefore, please check this website for your weekly preventative measures and any detection and movement of the condition in your area.
It is totally worth it to be proactive in keeping your tomatoes healthy so that they can give you a plentiful and damage-free harvest!
It’s different from the regular string of beads, its relative. The Variegated String of Pearls has green bead leaves with cream-colored streaks. They almost resemble wasabi peas. The Variegated String of Pearls has a lower amount of chlorophyll. Due to this, it has a slower growth and a less green color than the regular string of pearls.
These white-streaked ‘pearls’ or beads sit amidst thin, green stems. These leaves don’t grow very tall. Instead, they tend to trail down to a length of up to 2 feet. When cared for properly, the Variegated String of Pearls will make a pleasant addition to any home!
Keeping this plant dry and cool during the winter will increase the chances of it blooming during the summer. The blooming season for the plant lasts around a month, from late spring through summer.
Since the Variegated String of Pearls needs a lot of sunlight to bloom, you need to create the perfect conditions for it if you keep it inside. It’s important to position it where it has access to sunlight. To encourage that, you can place this plant near a windowsill.
How to Plant Variegated String of Pearls?
If you search how to plant Variegated String of Pearls, you will hear two opposing views. Some people say it is very hard to plant them, while others purport it’s very easy. There is also a lack of information available online, so we’ll tell you everything you need to know.
Before you think it’s not possible, let us tell you that it is very easy to grow this plant if you’re able to meet certain conditions. These plants originate in East Africa, so replicating its natural habitat will help you immensely.
The Variegated String of Pearls needs a fast-draining soil. While many people use a potting mix that is made for succulents, adding coarse pumice to the mix would help even more. This plant needs the most draining soil mix you can find to grow.
Due to where it grows, the Variegated String of Pearls experiences long periods of drought. This is why you should avoid overwatering it as the plant can rot. These plants have a compact root system so do not pot it in a large pot. Use a small pot with well-draining soil.
If you live in a warm climate, you can plant the Variegated String of Pearls in the ground. They will easily grow, but be careful if you have any pets around. The String of Pearls can be poisonous for human and animal consumption.
Different Types of Variegated String of Pearls
The String of Pearls has several relatives, with minor differences, especially in color. This is what makes this plant so aesthetic. Let’s look at the different kinds of Variegated String of pearls.
Purple Variegated String of Pearls
This variety of the Variegated String of Pearls is commonly known as the String of Watermelon. Its botanical name is Curio herreanus. It is characterized by melon shaped leaves with purple streaks.
Pink Variegated String of Pearls
This variety of the Variegated String of Pearls is also known as the Ceropegia Woodii or the String of Hearts.
This trailing succulent has long, purple stems with heart-shaped leaves. The underside of the leaves is pink, giving the plant a pop of color.
How to Propagate Variegated String of Pearls
The Variegated String of Pearls will grow about 5 to 15 inches every year. They are generally not a fast-growing plant, and this growth may be less if you don’t propagate the plant. On average, the Variegated String of Pearls will survive for 5 years. However, you can prolong their lifespan with proper propagation!
The Variegated String of Pearls will propagate easily and quickly through stem cuttings. The best time to propagate this plant is during spring or summer, and even early fall. This will vary depending on where you live.
Basically, you should propagate it during a warmer climate. You may also propagate it through planting seeds, but this method is usually not that successful.
Stem Cuttings
Use a pair of sterilized pruning snips or scissors, a small, 4 to 6-inch pot and a well-draining soil mix, preferably with coarse pumice. Do not use a larger pot.
Use these scissors or snips to cut several 4-5 inch long stems from right under a healthy leaf node of your existing plant.
Get rid of the two bottom leaves from the trimmed stems to allow them to adhere to the soil better. It is advised that you let these stems rest for 1-2 days before planting so that the callus can develop.
Now fill your pot with the succulent soil. There’s no need to water because the pearls already have sufficient water and nutrients.
Make a hole in the center of the pot where you want to plant the stems.
Carefully place the stem cuttings in the hole, about an inch deep. Make sure the leaves are above the soil mix. Wait a few days before you water the plant.
If outdoors, place the plant in partial sunlight. If indoors, place it in a bright spot.
How to Care for Variegated String of Pearls?
Even though the Variegated String of Pearls is a unique plant, it does not require out of the ordinary care. If you want any plant to thrive, imitate the conditions of its natural habitat. The Variegated String of Pearls hails from Eastern Africa, so it naturally requires a lot of sunlight but low watering.
Here are some important care requirements for this plant:
Light
The Variegated String of Pearls needs a combination of direct and indirect sunlight. If you plan to keep it indoors, make sure it’s placed in a spot where it gets sunlight, like near the window. If you plan to keep it outdoors, make sure it is not under constant direct sunlight.
Ideally, this succulent plant needs around 6-8 hours of sunlight a day. To make sure it gets just that, place it in direct sunlight for the softer morning hours. Shift it to a spot where it gets indirect sunlight for the rest of the day. Partial shade is best for it when the afternoon sun is particularly harsh.
Water
If you want to grow this plant, you need to use a well-draining soil as this plant does not require too much moisture. The soil should be slightly moist during the growing season, spring through summer. Reduce the watering during the winter season to allow it to grow properly. If you see the leaves going flat, you could then increase the frequency of watering.
Ideally, you should water the Variegated String of Pearls every 7 to 14 days. This will vary depending on the humidity and rainfall in the place where you live. If you’re based in a hotter climate, you should water the plant closer to 7 days. Alternatively, you can touch the soil and check.
If the first half-inch of the soil feels dry to touch, this is a sign the plant needs water. The best way is to water thoroughly and then make sure the soil drains well.
Soil
You can use any succulent potting soil for this particular plant. Just make sure it is well-draining. Overly moist soil can cause the plant’s roots to rot. In order to boost its growth, you can use sandy soil. Alternatively, you can use a 3 to 1 ratio of soil to sand.
To ensure proper drainage, you should use terra cotta and clay pots that help do away with any excess moisture. You can also ensure a sufficient number of draining holes at the bottom of the container. You can add around 25% of pumice to any soil and keep it well-drained and well-aerated. That’s all it takes!
Fertilizer
You will need to feed this plant fertilizer two times a week, especially during the growing season. Ideally, you should use a water-soluble fertilizer. Make sure you dilute this fertilizer to half its strength. During the winter season when the plant isn’t actively growing, feeding it every six weeks should be sufficient.
Temperature
Due to its natural place of birth, this plant thrives in warm temperatures. It needs consistently high temperatures of around 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the growing season. During the winter season, it needs an even higher temperature of around 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Common Problems with Variegated String of Pearls (and How to Fix Them)
The prime issue the Variegated String of Pearls faces has to do with overwatering. Otherwise, it rarely experiences disease, which is another reason to keep this stunning plant. Here are some of the most common issues that this plan experiences with solutions!
Root Rot
The Variegated String of Pearls needs little water. Overwatering it can result in root rot. When you water this plant, you should immediately drain it, possibly within the first few minutes. If the soil remains wet for very long, the roots will rot as the air won’t circulate properly. You would detect root rot by the foul smell coming from the soil or spotting yellowing leaves.
Solution: In such an event, carefully remove and wash the roots to get rid of the moist soil. Proceed to repot the plant and chop off any dead leaves.
To avoid root rot, take the following measures. For starters, make sure you use a well-draining soil potting mix. Some reasons behind slow draining soil include a large pot, high humidity, and the incorrect soil mix.
Use a small pot, use a succulent potting mix with pumice and make sure you drain the soil after watering the plant every 7 to 14 days, or when the soil is completely dry to the touch. Do not overwater!
Mealybugs
While the Variegated String of Pearls does not usually fall prey to most pests, mealybugs still target it. These small, winged insects thrive in warmer temperatures. You would usually spot them around the leaf nodes.
Solution:
To get rid of these insects, prune out the areas it has occupied. You may also apply some alcohol to the areas where mealybugs were present. Use insect spray or some soapy solution to wash the rest of the area.
Repeat this until the plant is completely insect-free.
Aphids
Aphids are green, black, or white insects that take refuge in succulents like the Variegated String of Pearls. Much like mealybugs, they occupy the crevices of the plant, like stem joints and the leaf nodes.
Solution:
To get rid of them, apply a cotton ball soaked in alcohol to the affected area. Proceed to spray it with a disinfectant spray.
Are Variegated Strings of Pearls Rare?
Variegated Strings of Pearls are rare and unique plants. They are often very tricky to grow, and there is a limited number of growers of this plant in the U.S. However, there are some small nurseries that sell this plant online. Fortunately, they are affordable, so you don’t have to worry about procuring one.
Monstera is a tropical vine that originates from the tropical regions of the Americas. There are several types of the Monstera plant. They are usually characterized by fenestrations, which are natural holes in the plant’s large leaves.
The primary reason behind these fenestrations is to acquire the maximum amount of sunlight in a dense canopy.
The Monstera is a genus of the 49 flowering plant species belonging to the arum family, Araceae. Out of these, only a few Monstera types are available as houseplants. The Monstera Esqueleto, also referred to as Monstera Epipremnoides, is a rare and unique indoor plant that will perk up the look of your home, if you manage to properly take care of it.
Features
The Monstera esqueleto is recognized by its large leaves, often bigger than the other types of monstera plants. They can grow up to 2 feet long!
The leaves are a light green color, and exhibit a leathery texture. While all the monstera plants are recognized by fenestrations, the holes in the Monstera esqueleto tend to be bigger, occupying most of the leaves, especially in the juvenile stage. These holes are irregular; some are very big while others are smaller.
As the plant matures, these incisions extend to the borders. The leaves then start to take on a pinnafied appearance, like that of palm tree leaves. While the leaves themselves are large, the plant’s height is short as it typically grows to 1 foot. The Monstera esqueleto rarely flowers, especially indoors. They might bloom in their natural habitat though.
Where Does Monstera Esqueleto Come From?
The Monstera esqueleto, like all monstera species, is a tropical plant. It belongs to the Araceae family, and originates from the cloud forests of Costa Rica.
It is possible to grow the Monstera esqueleto indoors, but you would have to replicate its natural environment, which consists of mild temperature, humidity, and lots of rainfall. Due to its place of birth, this plant has huge fenestrations to survive heavy rainfall and wind.
How do You Identify Monstera Esqueleto?
It’s easy to confuse the types of plants in the Monstera genus. Monstera adansonii and Monstera esqueleto are two of the most popular monstera plants, and they look quite similar at first glance. It’s easy to confuse the two, but it is still possible to tell them apart and identify Monstera esqueleto.
Let’s look at the primary differences between Monstera adansonii and Monstera esqueleto.
Difference in Origin
Both the plants belong to the Araceae plant family, but their places of origin are different.
The Monstera adansonii is widespread in South America and Central America. It is found in certain parts of Southern Mexico and the West Indies. However, the Monstera esqueleto grows in the rainforests of Costa Rica, where it receives and enjoys plenty of rainfall.
Leaf Color
While they may look strikingly familiar at once, you’ll be able to see the color difference between the two upon closer inspection. The Monstera esqueleto is a lighter shade of green as compared to the Monstera adansonii.
The former may also have shades of yellow, but the latter is dark green with a glossy finish. However, the foliage of Monstera esqueleto is still quite beautiful, and will make a pleasant addition to any home.
Leaf Shape and Texture
In addition to the color, the leaf textures of the two plants differ as well. Monstera esqueleto has a distinctly more leathery texture as compared to the Monstera adansonii. The latter has smoother leaves, and a glossier finish.
The leaf shape is more or less the same. The leaves of both the plants are oval, often heart-shaped as well. The perforations make it easier to distinguish between the two based on appearance.
Plant’s Size
Perhaps the most striking difference between the two plants is the leaf size. Monstera esqueleto has significantly bigger leaves than the Monstera adansonii.
The esqueleto’s leaves can grow up to 20 inches long and 12 inches wide while adansonii’s leaves are smaller in comparison, about 15 inches long and about 9 inches wide.
The Monstera esqueleto can develop vines that are up to 2 feet long. The large leaves of the esqueleto allow the plant to survive extreme climatic conditions like heavy wind and rainfall.
Flower Difference
Monstera esqueleto rarely ever flowers indoors, and this is a more common occurrence in its natural habitat. If you spot yellowish-white flowers on the Monstera plant, then chances are it’s adansonii.
When exposed to the proper conditions, these flowers will then bloom into fruit. You can then eat this fruit, which has a sweet, pineapple-like taste.
Fenestration Pattern
The Monstera genus is known for its unique fenestration pattern. But the pattern isn’t the same among all the Monstera types, and there are clear differences between the Monstera esqueleto and adansonii.
Esqueleto has larger leaves with significantly bigger incisions than the other types. Perforations can be seen in both, but the esqueleto has larger and more frequent holes, especially in mature plants. These holes start at the center of the leaf and extend to the tip. As a result, the leaves of the esqueleto are often incomplete, almost in a pinnafied pattern, resembling palm tree leaves.
The fenestrated pattern of the adansonii is characterized by tiny holes, significantly smaller in size. The holes are also thinner, almost resembling a narrow circle. The size of these holes isn’t homogenous but they are consistently flat.
Growth Rate
Both the Monstera species have a vining growth pattern, but the adansonii tends to trail more than the esqueleto. The adansonii has a higher growth rate compared to the esqueleto and provides many smaller vines in a short span of time.
It is touted as the aggressive viner among the Monstera genus, as it is able to reach a height of 2 feet annually. Adansonii has the highest growth rate from April to October.
While the adansonii tends to climb, the esqueleto is more of a ground creeper. It is a hemiepiphyte as a juvenile and an epiphyte when it matures. If you are looking for a Monstera plant to display, the adansonii looks better hanging over a trellis or over a basket.
How to Care for Monstera Esqueleto?
The care instructions for most Monstera plants are similar. They all require less light, moderate temperatures, and almost any humidity conditions to grow and thrive indoors.
If you have your heart set on the Monstera esqueleto, you should know that it is a lot less forgiving than other varieties like the easy-going Monstera adansonii and the resilient Monstera deliciosa.
It requires exact conditions to survive and grow, especially when it comes to humidity. If kept in the right environment, the Monstera esqueleto will prove to be a rewarding plant. Let’s look at the Monstera esqueleto care guide.
Soil and potting
Monstera esqueleto has more sensitive roots that can rot, so it requires highly specific soil conditions. It needs excellent drainage to avoid overwatering.
Ideally, the esqueleto plant should have a pot that is 2-3 inches larger than its root ball. This allows it enough space to grow without holding onto more water than it needs.
The Monstera esqueleto needs high-quality soil that should be well-aerated, evenly moist, permeable, and not overly soggy. The ideal PH of the soil is between 5 and 7. Avoid using poor quality, wet soil that may damage the plant’s roots.
Light
The Monstera esqueleto grows in Costa Rica’s dense rainforest, where the heavy canopy protects it from too much direct sunlight. As a result, this plant needs bright, but indirect light to thrive and grow.
To imitate this picky plant’s natural habitat, you need to place it somewhere it will get lots of filtered light. Be very careful that the plant does not get direct sunlight, especially after 10 am.
Ideally, you should place it in a spot close to an east-facing window, or one that is just a few steps away from the west or southern-facing window. If you notice that the Monstera esqueleto’s leaves are drying out, it may be an indication that it’s receiving too much light.
Watering
Just like other Monstera plants, esqueleto also needs moderately moist soil. Ideally, you should water the plant when the top 2 inches of the soil feel dry to touch. You should invest in a well-draining soil to prevent any issues.
It is best to water the plant once a week, as overwatering can prove counterproductive. The soil should be barely damp before you water it again. You can water the Monstera esqueleto from the top or from the bottom.
Bottom watering is a better option as it helps mitigate the risk of overwatering.
Temperature
When deciding the ideal temperature for the Monstera esqueleto, you should consider the tropical rainforest conditions.
The plant will thrive in temperatures between a range of 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 27 degrees Celsius). While the high 60s may be acceptable, anything above 85 degrees or below 65 can be harmful to the plant.
Humidity
You should be very careful when it comes to humidity levels. Monstera esqueleto loves high humidity, so make sure it has plenty. It is vital if you want to ensure the leaves are healthy. The plant would require high humidity levels of 80% to 100%. If humidity levels are low in your house, you should consider setting up a humidifier near the plant.
Alternatively, you can set the plant in a steamy bathroom as it mimics the humidity levels of the Costa Rican rainforest, where the plant originates. If the plant’s leaves appear dry and crisp, this means it needs more humidity.
Fertilizer
The Monstera esqueleto needs a balance of nutrients to survive and grow. It is these nutrients that will produce the large leaves and the strong stems.
While the plant needs a nutrient boost from fertilizer, too much of it can result in fertilizer burn. It would be best to use fertilizer sparingly.
Use a gentle, diluted fertilizer 3 times a year, and make sure you apply it at a safe distance from the base of the Monstera esqueleto. You should consider buying plant food that is specifically made to suit this plant’s needs.
Pest and Diseases to Look Out For
Pests don’t usually affect the Monstera esqueleto unless the plant lives outdoors. However, this doesn’t mean they are totally immune to pests.
Here are the following diseases and pests that most commonly affect the Monstera esqueleto.
Yellow/Discoloration of Leaves
This is most often caused by an excessive amount of sunlight or water. If you notice the plant’s leaves turning yellow or showing discoloration in general, it’s time to change the water and soil, and ensure it is not receiving too much direct sunlight.
In such an instance, you should cut the yellow leaves when they turn dry.
Root Rot
The roots would rot if the plant is being overwatered. You would notice root rot by the plant’s distorted, yellow leaves and a mushy stem base. You may also notice brown or black patches on the roots.
To cure root rot, you must repot the plant. Make sure you get rid of the previous soil mix as that is most likely the cause of the problem.
Brow Edges
If you notice that the plant’s edges have turned brown and crisp, it may be indicative of poor, low level humidity or lack of water. It could also be caused by sunburn.
Make sure the light, watering, and humidity are correct to sort out this problem.
Curling Leaves
Low humidity and lack of water may cause the plant to droop and curl. This would be noticeable as the leaves will start to protrude inside.
To prevent this, make sure there is plenty of humidity, up to 80% at least and the plant receives water at least once a week or when the soil tip feels too dry.
When Should You Repot Monstera Esqueleto?
If you want to know the best time to repot the Monstera esqueleto, you need to closely monitor the soil. If it feels the roots are popping out, the roots start growing along the pot’s edges and the growth has slowed down, it may be time to repot the plant.
As a general rule, you should repot the Monstera esqueleto every year or two.
How Do You Repot Monstera Esqueleto?
In order to repot the Monstera esqueleto, you need to follow these steps:
Tip the pot towards one side to unpot the plant
Gently force the plant out without pulling on the stems
Place a few handfuls of the soil in the new pot</li
Put the plant on top of this
Fill the edges with the potting mix
Water the plant and top it off with some more of the potting mix
If you want a video tutorial, you can visit this link to see how to expertly repot the Monstera esqueleto.
Unpot the Monstera and separate the plant into two smaller plants, untangling the root balls. Place these two plants into different plants to have several new baby plants. It’s that simple!
Stem Cutting
Locate a section that has fresh and healthy leaves. Now spot the node, which is a small bump on the stem which is on the opposite side of the leaf. Use shares or scissors to cut just below the node so that it is a part of the cutting.
Don’t forget this step as the node will bloom into the root! Now place this cutting into a glass with clean water and some propagation promoter. Place this in a bright place and water regularly. In just a few weeks, you will start to see roots forming.
Is Pruning of Monstera Esqueleto Necessary?
The ideal time to prune the Monstera esqueleto is in spring. It is recommended that you prune it only when the plant starts to become wild.
Pruning will then help get rid of any dead and damaged leaves.
Monstera Esqueleto Buying Guide
The Monstera esqueleto is a unique and rare plant that will really test your indoor gardening skills. Since it is an unusual tropical plant, it is quite costly to procure. Its maintenance isn’t that simple, but with the proper care, it will thrive.
If you want to guarantee the growth of the Monstera esqueleto, you need to be careful that you choose a reliable seller in order to get your hands on a healthy plant.
Since this is an expensive investment, make sure you choose the right product. Locating a reliable seller may take some time and research.
How to Pick a Healthy Monstera
Here are a few signs of a healthy Monstera esqueleto:
Light green, upright leaves
Healthy, glossy foliage
No signs of pest infestation
No brown, yellow or discolored edges
Large leaves with enough fenestration from the center to the edges
No signs of curling leaves
How Much Does a Monstera Esqueleto Cost?
While the Monstera esqueleto is not as rare or expensive as other species like the Monstera Obliqua, it can still be challenging to find.
Therefore, it is important to select a reliable seller. A small Monstera esqueleto will roughly cost you $500.
Where to Buy Monstera Esqueleto?
The Monstera esqueleto can be challenging to grow on your own. You will also need to thoroughly search for a trusted seller of this rare plant. Here are a few places where you can buy this plant:
While the Monstera esqueleto can be challenging to find and hard to take care of, it will produce great reward if it is provided with an environment that closely mirrors its natural habitat. Make sure you buy from a trusted seller to increase your chances of success.
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