Snails! The site of these slow-moving slimy gastropods is enough to make any gardener’s blood boil.
The little buggers may look cute but they can wreak havoc on your plants by devouring leaves, flowering buds, and even the roots!
If you would like to know how to get rid of snails in your garden, here is a list of tried and true methods.
Non-Lethal Methods for Snail Removal
Relocation
Certainly one of your options is to be nice and just move the snails out of your garden to a spot outside of your garden.
As snails are active at night, just grab your flashlight and just pluck them off (using gloves of course!). Throw them in a bucket and then dispose of them in the woods or a vacant lot.
While this is an extremely low-cost and gentile method of removal, you’ll need to dedicate several nights or weeks even to see any significant improvement.
Melons
You could speed up your relocation efforts by creating a melon trap for the snails. Simply take a melon rind and place it upside down near your garden.
The ends may need to be propped up a bit so that the snails can crawl underneath. The sweet melon smell will be such a temptation that you should find lots of snails hanging out under it when you awake the next morning.
You can simply relocate the snails or dispose of them permanently as you see fit.
Copper
One option that a lot of gardeners love is the use of copper tape to deter snails. Apparently, the copper reacts negatively to the snail but does not kill it.
There are several varieties of copper to choose from including mesh, tape, and wire. Most prefer to use wide copper adhesive tape greater than two inches wide.
Tape that is more narrow may allow the snail to stretch over it and effectively bypass it. Gardeners who had used the copper mesh generally anchored it to the ground which might require more maintenance compared to the tape.
Take It Up a Notch (Lethal Options)
Beer
If you’re going to go, this is definitely one of the better ways to do it. Snails are also attracted to beer so feel free to set a trap where you see snail activity.
The trap needs to be close to ground level so that the snail can enter easily. A beer bottle with just enough beer to cover the bottom when laying on its side is ideal.
You will need to remove some dirt so that the lip of the bottle is even with the ground. The snails will crawl inside and drink themselves to their demise making for easy cleanup in the morning.
There are several specialty products and traps you can purchase which certainly provides a better aesthetic than half-buried beer bottles!
Coffee
Coffee can actually be used in two different ways to repel or kill snails. Coffee grounds make a formidable barrier for snails.
Just simply spread the ground around your garden beds. But what some scientists in Hawaii have discovered is that is may actually be the caffeine.
In fact, they did some tests that showed a caffeine solution sprayed on plants and surrounding ground killed small snails and deterred the larger ones. Not a bad way to recycle your leftover coffee each day.
All Out War
Salt
This is probably the most well-known method of killing snails but also probably one of the cruelest.
The salt pulls the water out the snail’s body effectively killing it of dehydration. If enough salt is pored on the snail it will actually bubble.
As much as I hate them, I do not take pleasure in such a gruesome death. A less dramatic option would be to place a barrier of salt that the snail has to crawl through.
The salt would still bring about the end of any snail that crawled through it but it would not be as gut-wrenching.
Diatomaceous earth
Another seemingly savage method of destroying those slimy snails is to use diatomaceous earth. Simply sprinkle it around the areas where you can see heavy snail activity.
As the snail moves over the jagged particles, the underbelly of the snails will become shredded and eventually succumb to dehydration.
Overall this is a much safer option for your plants as well since diatomaceous earth is not harmful to your plants whereas excess salt from the first option would certainly be an issue.
Just remember to reapply the diatomaceous earth after any rainfall as it is ineffective at snail killing if wet.
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I hope this list helps you with your battle against snails in the garden. These are the most common methods but please feel free to comment below if you have been successful with any other actions. We gardeners need to band together against these slimy assassins!
Roses are arguably some of the best known and fragrant of flowers. However, their reputation for being difficult to manage has long made them extremely intimidating to most gardeners.
Fortunately, becoming an accomplished master at maintaining beautifully verdant rose bushes just takes a bit of willingness to make a regular effort at pruning, disease prevention, and insect control.
With a bit of experience, you’ll soon realize that any clipping mistakes will just grow out, and simple removal of tiny pests can go a long way towards producing a lovely result that will be the envy of your neighbors.
Planting and Growing Basics
The appropriate time to plant roses depends largely upon the gardening zone where you live. All danger of frost should have passed, and the ground must be workable.
Rose bushes generally require six hours of morning sun, though they will be fine getting light at any time of day as long as it meets this minimum amount.
You should take into consideration however, that afternoon sun is often accompanied by excessive heat. Your rose bushes might benefit from some shade during the hot afternoon hours.
Late watering is generally not advised, as it can lead to mildew development. The majority of expert gardeners will recommend watering during the early morning hours so that the sun can adequately dry the foliage and surrounding soil of your rose bush.
Most roses do well with thorough irrigation twice a week.
Along with your initial watering, you should perform touch tests at various intervals and depths to ascertain how well the soil drains. Something as simple as the addition of peat moss to your soil can lead to inadequate drainage.
Be certain to plant in well-drained soil. Remember that wetter bushes are more likely to become diseased, especially when their foliage is moistened.
The location of your rose bushes should factor in all of these details.
Pruning
Typically, pruning should begin about 6 to 8 weeks after your rose bush has really started to come alive. This promotes new growth, improves circulation of drying air, and removes dead material from the woody parts of your bushes.
Pruning is generally successful when begun from the base of your bushes, just as the bushes leaf buds begin to swell.
Smooth cuts should be made at a 45° angle at a minimum of 1/4″ away from outward-facing buds, focusing on opening the center trunks to light and airflow, and removing dry, shriveled, or blackened wood.
Some gardeners choose to protect the open cuts from Sawflies and Carpenter Bee larvae, known as cane borers, by sealing recently pruned areas with regular white glue.
Many people are afraid of pruning. However, not pruning may do more damage than an occasional snip in the wrong area. Mistakes will eventually grow out, and pruning can help produce larger numbers of blooms and beautiful foliage.
Pest Combat
A 20x magnifier is a handy tool for identifying small pests on the undersides of leaves. If only a few are present simply picking them off of the bush is sufficient.
Larger pest infestations can be dealt with using either chemical controls or natural methods, according to your particular preferences.
Disease Control
Roses are susceptible to a number of various diseases, such as black spot, powdery mildew, rust, and rosette, among others. One of the first steps in preventing diseases is to purchase disease-resistant plants.
There are a number of chemical and natural methods of dealing with some of these diseases. However, the best prevention is proper care and maintenance of your rose bushes.
Summary
Rose bushes can dramatically transform your yard so don’t be afraid to get started growing roses. Start with one small rose bush and gain some confidence. Before you know it, you’ll be covered in roses!
One of the most versatile components of gardening is a container garden. Regardless if you’re focused on smaller indoor herb gardens or larger outdoor gardening, container gardens can provide near-instant appeal.
Need to add some color or maybe cover a difficult growing space? Or perhaps you don’t have a lot of room for flower beds and ornamentals? Urns, barrels, and even old wheelbarrows can elevate your overall landscaping.
I’ve dabbled in container gardening since I was in high school. My mother felt that I would desperately need a beautiful arrangement of flowers and plants to brighten up the bleak dorm rooms and basement apartments in my future.
Since that time, I’ve acquired a bit of knowledge about growing plants in various containers. However, we all have something to learn, which is why I’m giving you my list of 10 Things To Know About Container Gardening.
1. Not all plants can cohabitate together.
You will be inclined to stuff your container full of all the beautiful plants that you can find. But plants have different needs in terms of sun and water.
You can’t put a plant that needs eight hours of full sun and low moisture with a shade-only, water-loving variety. Only one of those plants will survive, and who wants to live with the knowledge that you helped lead a plant to its demise!
2. You can’t use regular everyday soil in your container gardens.
I know you’re thinking that plants grow in the soil every day. Still, your giant yard is much different from a container’s compressed environment.
You need to use potting soil, which is usually a combination of peat moss, perlite, compost and other organic nutrients. Soil straight from your backyard is too dense for containers and won’t provide adequate drainage.
3. Potting soil will need to have this replenished over time.
The components that make potting soil so wonderful are organic, so they will decompose or simply be diluted over time.
You will most likely notice a significant gap in the top of your soil and the lip of the container. Simply add fresh soil when that gap reaches an inch or so.
4. Fertilizer is not optional.
I know you’re thinking that you bought the Cadillac of potting soils, so there is no need to purchase fertilizer on top of that. But you would be surprised how much the nutrient quality of the soil diminishes over time.
Some of it is going out through the drainage holes, but a lot of it is absorbed by the plant itself. So just give yourself the task of inserting a timed-release fertilizer in your container gardens every 1-2 months to ensure the healthiest outcome.
5. Container gardens also need water.
I see you rolling your eyes at me. Still, you’d be surprised how often container gardens need to be watered, especially if they are outside. While indoor gardens will not require daily watering, outdoor plants are subject to a harsher environment.
You may need to water outdoor container gardens every 1-2 days or even multiple times a day if temperatures reach extreme levels. Remember to water your plants in the early morning and/or late afternoon to enhance absorption and avoid blistering.
6. Don’t let your plants dry out.
On the off chance that you let your container garden completely dry out, you will need to basically drown your plants to get them hydrated. I’m sure you’ve noticed that the water just seems to roll off on parched soil as opposed to being absorbed.
I’ve had to hold a hose on some of my hanging plants for over 10 minutes. When you’re trying to make up for lost time, I don’t think you need to worry about over-watering.
Once the soil is thoroughly soaked, the excess water will drain off.
7. Think about drip irrigation.
And since we’re talking about watering, you might want to think about investing in some good drip irrigation. If you have more than a few potted or container plants, a timed irrigation system can be both a time saver and a money saver.
The systems today are actually getting more affordable and not that difficult to set up. These can also be helpful if you have plants that are difficult to reach with either a watering can or hose.
Now you’re no longer limited as to where you can place those beautiful flower gardens.
8. Mulching.
One item that so many gardeners forget is mulch. You think that this is just for landscaping in your yard, but mulch can serve a purpose in container gardens as well.
Water retention and weed growth inhibition are just a few of the practical benefits of adding mulch to your container gardens.
9. Think outside the box.
Don’t limit yourself to nurseries or big-box lawn and garden centers when you’re buying components for your container gardens. I’ve found decorative rocks and faux foliage, among other things, at craft stores and even dollar stores from time to time.
I’m not saying you can’t find good deals at your local nursery, but there’s no reason you can’t save some money while pursuing your hobby.
Get creative
10. And finally, container gardens do not have to be contained to basic pots and baskets. I’ve seen the cutest arrangements in wheelbarrows, kettles, bottles – you name it.
When you’re considering a new container, just let your imagination go wild. That old boot may just be the new home of a beautiful set of pansies or begonias!
Planting an indoor or outdoor herb garden is an easy and affordable way to bring fresh flavor to any type of prepared dish. In addition to offering a burst of flavor, herbs are low-calorie foods packed with vitamins, minerals and nutrients that encourage good health.
Did you know that you don’t need a huge garden to grow some of the most used herbs at home? What you do need is soil, fertilizer, pots, seeds, and a fair amount of space―and, of course, enough gardening smarts, passion and patience to see your project through, from sowing to harvesting.
This article offers an overview of our favorite herbs, some of which can thrive in shady areas.
Setting Up Your Herb Garden
Identify Your Growing Space
One of the primary factors in your herb garden’s success is based on access to sunlight. You’ll need to find a space that gets around 4-6 hours of direct sunlight each day.
Ideally, this sunny space will be close to an area where you spend a lot of time – such as your kitchen. You’ll be able to keep an eye on your fledgling garden as well as snip some basil or oregano when preparing your family’s meals.
Choose Your Plants
Determine which plants you want to grow. If you’re undecided about which herbs to include, we’ve included a list of the more popular options below.
Once you’ve identified the herbs you’ll need to select the appropriate containers. Some herbs will require larger vessels while some may need simple shallow containers.
The one universal requirement for a great herb garden is excellent drainage.
Nurture Your Garden
Once you’ve planted your herbs watch for the seeds to germinate and sprouts to appear. You’ll need to maintain the proper moisture level for each of your plants and perhaps give them a little fertilizer burst every few weeks.
If necessary, transplant some of the plants into additional containers to avoid overcrowding. Be sure to harvest on a regular basis so that your herb garden can continue to flourish for years!
Which Plants to Grow
The following plants are some of our favorite herbs we love to grow. Regardless of the types of herbs you choose to grow, it’s important to do some gardening research to ensure your plants can thrive.
We’ve included information regarding sun exposure, watering schedule, type of soil, and appropriate types of nourishment.
Basil
Genovese Basil
Sun: Full Sun Spacing: 15 – 18 inches between plants. Grows well in: Containers and flower beds. Use: Seasoning in Italian dishes.
In Italy, basil is known as the herb of love. According to legend, if a man presents a woman with a sprig of basil she will fall madly in love and never leave him. In ancient Greece, basil was highly regarded as a sacred herb reserved for royalty. In America, people love basil for its sweet, spicy, and lemony flavor.
Several types of basil exist. The most common include Genovese, Lemon, and Thai. Genovese basil has bright green round leaves and presents a sweet flavor. It is often used in Italian cooking and is the primary ingredient in pesto.
Lemon basil has smooth oblong leaves and dark purple flower shoots. It is usually served raw to preserve the lemon flavor. Lemon basil is great with salads, salad dressings, and flavored oils.
How to Grow Basil
The best time to grow basil is in the late-spring months.
Sow the seeds about an inch deep in well-drained, compost-enriched soil and put the pot in a place where the plant will receive at least six hours of direct sunlight each day.
To grow basil from a cutting, place it in a tumbler of water and transplant the plant into a pot only after it has developed a healthy root system.
To harvest basil leaves, snip off at a point right above where two large leaves meet, but never remove more than two-thirds of the plant.
Thai basil has light green narrow leaves that smell and taste like licorice. This herb is great with all types of Thai and spicy Asian dishes. Thai basil accentuates the flavor of beef, pork, chicken and seafood.
Cilantro
Cilantro
Sun: Full to Partial Sun Spacing: 12 – 18 inches between plants. Grows well in: Containers and flower beds. Use: Seasoning in Mexican, Asian, and Caribbean recipes.
Most people are familiar with cilantro through Mexican fare. Most salsas, tortilla soups, and fajita recipes use cilantro. However, cilantro is a popular herb choice with Asian, European and Mediterranean cooking. It’s perfect with stir-fry, makes a flavorful pesto, and adds a hint of spiciness to soups, salads, and marinades.
One unique feature of cilantro is the entire plant is edible. As it matures, the plant produces flowers and seeds which can be incorporated into casseroles, stews or meat rubs. Cilantro seeds are known as coriander and present with a woodsy, cinnamon flavor.
How to Grow Cilantro
Start with a handful of seeds and a deep pot with a wide mouth.
Soak the dry seeds in water for a day, then sprinkle them over the soil and cover them lightly with more soil, about an inch deep.
Keep the pot in the shade and put it out in the sun only after the shoots have achieved a height of three inches.
Cilantro plants perform better if placed in an area that receives early morning sun and prefers moist, well-drained soil.
Dill Weed
Dill
Sun: Full to Partial Sun Spacing: 12 – 15 inches between plants. Grows well in: Flower and herb gardens. Use: Flavor in many types of dishes.
Dill is a mild-flavored herb that can be used in nearly any type of cooking, including baked goods and dessert. Dill leaves are used to garnish fish or season yogurt-based sauces. It is an excellent spice with potato dishes and omelets and enhances the flavor of cucumber relishes and salads.
Upon maturity, dill plants produce edible seeds which are often used to make dill pickles, salad dressings, and potato salads. Dill is a delicate herb that should be added to dishes as the final step in order to retain its flavor.
How to Grow Dill Weed
Dill grows very well from seed planted in about a quarter-inch of rich soil.
Containers will need to be deeper than 12 inches in order to accommodate the roots.
Place pots on a windowsill or other location that will receive 6-8 hours of direct sunlight.
Use a mister often to keep the soil moist.
Thin plants out once they are 1-2 inches high.
Dill is a pretty herb plant that has soft, wispy, dark green leaves. Although fragile-looking, dill is actually quite hardy and performs well under most conditions. Dill prefers full sunlight and moist, well-drained soil.
Mint
Chocolate Mint
Sun: Full to Partial Sun Spacing: 18 – 24 inches between plants. Grows well in: Herb and container gardens. Use: Flavoring desserts or beverages.
Mint is a hardy herb that presents with a refreshing, spicy flavor. Several mint varietals exist including peppermint, spearmint, orange mint, pineapple mint, and apple mint. The leaves can be used whole for garnishing, chopped, crushed or dried.
Mint is very popular in Mediterranean fare and Greek cuisine. It complements the flavor of lamb and red meats and is often used to season rice dishes, curries, couscous, bean casseroles, and yogurt dressings. Whole mint leaves are the perfect garnish for iced tea and mint juleps.
How to Grow Mint
To grow mint in a pot from seeds, plant the seeds a quarter-inch deep in moist soil.
Keep the pot in a shady area and the soil moist till seedlings emerge.
Then place the pot on a window sill to give the seedlings at least eight hours of sunlight per day.
To grow mint from cuttings, place the cuttings in a tumbler of water with some mud mixed in.
Keep the tumbler away from direct sunlight and wait till roots form.
Then plant in a pot, ensuring that the root system is fully covered with soil.
Mint plants tend to quickly grow and spread. It is best to plant mint in a separate container or redirect growing pattern with a small trellis. Mint will grow in full sun or shady areas and prefers rich soil, which is slightly acidic.
Oregano
Italian Oregano
Sun: Full to Partial Sun Spacing: 12 – 18 inches between plants. Grows well in: Herb and container gardens. Use: Mainstay of Italian dishes.
Oregano is a mild-flavored herb that is often used in Italian and Mediterranean cuisine. One of the most popular uses for oregano is to season pizza and pasta sauces. Several types of oregano exist, but the most common include Greek and Common. Greek oregano has a robust flavor, while Common oregano is less pungent and sweeter.
Oregano can be infused into oils, butter or salad dressings. It enhances the flavor of omelets, frittatas, and egg casseroles. Dried oregano pairs well with chili spices making it an excellent choice for homemade chili, spicy soups, stews, and Mexican cuisine. When cooking with oregano, add the herb at the end of preparation to preserve the flavor.
How to Grow Oregano
Plant oregano seeds under a fine layer of soil in the container.
Place pots or trays in an area that gets a lot of direct sunlight.
Don’t overwater – oregano prefers a dryer environment.
As plants grow you will need to thin them out or transplant into additional pots.
Oregano can be picked and used fresh or stored dry or frozen.
Oregano plants prefer full sun and well-drained sandy soil. Plants grow quickly and need to be pruned on a regular basis. Otherwise, they will become spindly and produce fewer leaves.
Parsley
Curled Parsley
Sun: Full to Partial Sun Spacing: 12 – 18 inches between plants. Grows well in: Herb and container gardens, Flower beds. Use: Garnishes and palate cleanser.
Most people think of parsley as the garnish restaurants place on the side of the plate. However, because of its mild flavor parsley is one of the most popular herbs. Parsley pairs well with meat dishes, seafood, soups, salads, and salad dressings.
Freshly chopped oregano is excellent with steamed clams and mussels. It is an inviting addition to pasta dishes and pasta sauces. Oregano is a preferred herb for making infused oils and flavored butter and can be made into a delightful pesto. It can be added to rice dishes, casseroles, and mashed potatoes or as a simple garnish to brighten any meal.
How to Grow Parsley
Parsley is best grown from seeds planted about a quarter-inch deep in the soil, preferably in a deep pot.
Keep the soil moist with regular spraying, and after seedlings appear in about three weeks, place the pot in a spot where the plant will get at least eight hours of direct sunlight each day.
Keep the soil moist and well-drained, and enrich it every two weeks with a mild liquid fertilizer.
Two types of parsley are popular in the US and include flat-leaf Italian and curly parsley. Both varietals prefer full sun and moist, rich soil. Parsley should be planted in a deep pot to accommodate its long taproot.
Rosemary
Rosemary
Sun: Full Sun Spacing: 24 – 36 inches between plants. Grows well in: Herb and container gardens, Flower beds, hedges. Use: Mediterranean and Italian recipes.
Rosemary is a pungent herb often used to flavor meats and stews. Rosemary plant leaves resemble pine trees and needles should be removed prior to cooking. Some people use the entire stalk to season lamb and poultry; however, the stem should be discarded after cooking.
Rosemary should be used sparingly to avoid overpowering foods. One large sprig can season a three to four-pound roast. Rosemary pairs well with egg casseroles, frittatas, and omelets. It is an excellent choice for homemade bread, particularly focaccia. Rosemary can be added to melted butter and drizzled over vegetables or boiled, baked, or roasted potatoes. It also makes delightful dipping oil served with hot bread or crackers.
How to Grow Rosemary
Rosemary may be grown from seeds or cuttings.
Sow a couple of weeks before the last fall, and ensure that the plant has enough space to grow.
Rosemary enjoys the sun, so if you live in a cold place, ensure that your potted plant receives at least six hours of direct sunlight each day.
If you’re growing rosemary in a warm climate, keep the pot in the shade, ideally in a breezy area, with limited direct sunlight.
Keep the soil moist and enrich it occasionally with a mild fertilizer.
For harvesting, prune the plant evenly all around, cutting only the tender stems for the most potent leaves.
Rosemary prefers full sun and alkaline soil. Plants can grow to heights of six feet and will need to be pruned to control growth in container gardens.
Thyme
Lemon Thyme
Sun: Full to Partial Sun Spacing: 18 – 24 inches between plants. Grows well in: Herb and container gardens, Flower beds, ground covers. Use: Lemon flavoring.
Thyme is a highly fragrant, slow-growing herb that presents with a strong earthy flavor. It grows low to the ground and is often used as a ground cover. When growing thyme as a culinary herb, it is best to plant in a separate container as it can quickly take over an outdoor garden or planter box.
Thyme is an excellent choice for stuffing, gravies, soups, stocks, and marinades. It can be added to bread or biscuit dough and is often used in combination with rosemary. Thyme is a great accompaniment to beans and bean casseroles. It pairs well with kidney, pinto, black, lima, navy and garbanzo beans and adds a rich, earthy flavor to baked beans.
How to Grow Thyme
Thyme is grown from seeds or from divisions made from mature plants.
As thyme seeds take a long time to germinate, most people prefer the latter approach.
It involves gently uprooting a grown plant and separating a smaller clump from it―together with its root bulb―for planting elsewhere.
Thyme grows in fairly dry soil, so make sure that the soil in your pot has a fair amount of sand to permit drainage during watering.
To harvest thyme, snip off the tops but don’t cut more than one-third from a young plant.
Thyme is a perennial that will return for three to four years. It prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Once planted, thyme requires three to four months before leaves are ready for consumption. Harvest time generally begins mid-June through mid-July.
Potting and Soil Tips
Before using your pots, make sure there are a couple of holes at the bottom to permit proper drainage of water, but keep these holes covered with stones or pieces of tiles to prevent soil from escaping.
Avoid using garden soil, as it might include weed seeds, fungus, and insects, which could adversely affect your plants. Instead, buy potting soil with a balanced mix of moss, vermiculite, peat and organic matter. Some potting mixes contain time-release fertilizers and polymer crystals for retaining moisture, which help cut down on maintenance.
When filling soil into a pot, do it gradually, moistening and mixing it as you proceed. If there’s a large pot to be filled, first place it where you want it to be to avoid hauling a full pot around later.
Finally, before you pick a plant to grow, acquaint yourself with its needs related to soil type, sunlight, temperature, and so on. If you’re new to growing an herb garden and pot-based cultivation, stick to one plant per pot until you’ve understood the requirements of different plants and learn which can be planted together.
— Now that you know how to grow an herb garden with pots, go ahead and start cultivating. You will have on-the-spot access to fresh ingredients and the freedom to use only what you need, which is not always possible when purchasing from a supermarket.
Rats! They are some of the most disgusting pests you will encounter in your garden. Not only do they have the potential to carry serious diseases, but rats can also do a lot of damage.
These rodents can chew through your vegetables and flower bulbs basically just laying waste to all of your gardening efforts.
Rat poison is generally the first step that homeowners want to take but that may not be your best option. The danger that poisons pose to children, pets or your food sources far outweigh the benefits of eliminating those rats.
Here we will discuss alternatives to poison which include both lethal and non-lethal methods.
Non-Lethal Methods to Get Rid of Rats
Live Traps
There are several varieties of traps that will capture and contain the rat so that you can release them somewhere far from your home. The CaptSure Humane Rodent Trap is reusable and safe for kids and pets. Some of these traps are large enough that they will hold several of the little buggers or you can get a trap that is really only single occupancy.
You will need to check the traps routinely so that the rats can be released (far away from your property!) and not die from dehydration or hunger.
DIY Bucket Rat Trap
You can also cobble together a DIY rat trap for almost nothing.
Materials needed:
5-gallon bucket
12″ – 16″ piece of wood
Peanut butter
How to construct:
Place the peanut butter at the bottom of the 5-gallon bucket.
Now lean the wood or stiff cardboard against the bucket so that the rat can climb to the rim.
It will jump into the bucket to get the peanut butter but won’t be able to get back out.
Check back regularly to see if your trap worked.
Ratproofing
Keeping the rats at bay is the best thing you can do though. With a little forethought, you can create an environment that makes it difficult and unattractive to these rodents.
Eliminate sources of food and water
Trash cans with loose lids, dog food bowls, and even bird feeders will attract rats even if they are off the ground. Make sure that your trash cans are secure and that the outsides are free of food debris. Trash bags can leak so don’t be afraid to double bag if necessary.
After feeding your dogs or cats you should probably move the empty bowls inside. Don’t leave bags of pet food in the garage or on the porch either.
Placing them in those rolling plastic containers is not a fail-safe. I’ve opened up one before to see a mouse pigging out on puppy chow.
Metal trash cans with secure lids are a good option and there are roller bases to make them easy to move.
Keep Yard Clean
Rats love to build their nests in cozy areas where they can hide. For this reason, you need to eliminate and remove any wood piles around the garden and house. If you have firewood, keep it well-stacked and at least a foot off the ground.
Deterrents
Strong smells are apparently irritating to mice although the little buggers thrive in sewers, don’t they? If you want to try and keep rats away using some natural remedies these are the most popular.
Peppermint oil
Soak cotton balls in peppermint oil and place them in likely points of entry. This would be cracks or spaces near doors and entryways, along the walls in the garage, etc. Even if the peppermint oil doesn’t work, you’ll have a great smelling house!
Pepper
One option is to sprinkle some black pepper by itself around the points of entry we talked about above. You could also create a spray of cayenne pepper and oil to use outside along walls and crevices.
Mothballs
This is a favorite of my dad who has mothballs all around his garage and even in his antique car.
He swears by it keep rats and mice at bay. It is thought that the naphthalene in the mothballs serves as a deterrent.
Catnip
I personally have never used catnip but I can’t see where it would do any harm. I’ve read that folks have actually planted catnip as a border around their garden. And who knows, maybe the catnip will bring all the neighborhood cats to your yard and take care of the rats personally!
Lethal Methods of Rat Control
Traps that Kill
The most common trap (and least expensive) is the basic wooden snap trap that has been in use for decades. The main problem with this type of trap is that I’m convinced I’m going to lose my hand. You have to pull the snap back with your fingers and then secure it.
If you manage to make it through this unscathed you still have to place the mousetrap. The base is so narrow that I generally set it off and there’s nowhere for my fingers to go!
I recommend a more modern version of the classic mousetrap. I’ve used these in my garage and every time the rat has died instantly and I’ve never had the mouse be successful in taking the bait and escaping.
These have great springs that lock and provide a quick and painless death. If you’re okay with lethal traps then I highly recommend them.
Trap Placement
Traps need to be set along walls and baseboards because this is where mice run. There are special baits that you can buy which are supposed to be irresistible to rats but I’ve found that peanut butter is a great option. It can’t be easily carried off which increases the likelihood of trapping the rat.
Sticky Traps
Another option that people have used is a sticky glue trap. These are the little pads that the rat runs over and its feet become stuck to the surface. I dislike these based on my personal experience. I had put one out and forgot about it for about a week or so.
I came back to a dead, desiccated mouse that had actually pulled his leg apart trying to escape. I may hate mice and rats but I would not wish this kind of long, painful death on anything.
Conclusion
Gardens are a favorite destination for rats. If you want to keep yours rodent free you will need to have a plan that includes both proactively maintaining your yard and elimination of the pests through either lethal or non-lethal means.
It will take some significant action but it will be worth it to avoid the potential diseases that rats carry and reap the benefits that your garden has to offer.
A great shrub for entranceways, garden borders, paths, mass planting, and specimen gardening, Taxus yews are highly popular for their drought resistance. In addition, their tolerance to repeated trimming makes them easy to care for.
The Taxus yew shrub belongs to the Taxaceae family and is a medium-sized evergreen bush. It has green foliage with bright red berries. Taxus yew shrubs come in various types, and curious gardeners find them to be a great choice.
These bushes mature to a height of about 5 feet in height and a width of about 10 feet. They can be pruned into the desired size, depending on the location.
Yews are slow-growing and can be easily sheared into different shapes, and are often used as hedges. Ease of care and high adaptability makes this shrub popular in various areas in the United States.
There are various types of yew shrubs available to interested gardeners to choose from for growing in different locations. Whether grown as an evergreen shrub, flowering plant, or landscape bush, Taxus yew shrubs add a touch of beauty and grace to any area.
A variety of yew shrubs are native to Japan, Manchuria, Korea, and parts of Europe. Each shrub has its own name, identity, and features.
Here are some of the more popular varieties of yew shrubs:
Everlow Yew Zones: 4-7 Height: 1-5 feet. Spreads: 4-5 feet.
A versatile evergreen shrub with a striking green dense foliage, Taxus Everlow is a low growing spreader with windburn resistance.
It has dark green foliage that emerges in spring as light green.
It is an easy to care for, low-maintenance yew variety that tolerates pruning throughout the year.
Everlow is suitable for specimen, foundation, and small hedge applications. It is also used in perennial borders or rock gardens for its dwarf size.
This spreading cultivar grows to a height of about 1 to 5 feet and spreads to about 4 to 5 feet. It performs well in any weather condition and grows best in well-drained, alkaline soil.
Taxus Media Hicksii
Media Hicksii Zones: 4-7 Height: 18-20 feet. Spreads: 6-10 feet.
Offering an excellent combination of ornamental excellence and winter hardiness, Taxus Media Hicksii grows easily in medium moisture, well-drained soils in part to full shade.
It is a dense and narrow columnar shrub with ascending branching.
It matures to a height of 18 to 20 feet and spreads to 6 to 10 feet width in 20 years.
Hicksii is an evergreen shrub to display dark green foliage and heightened hedges. It is an easy-care and low maintenance shrub which can be pruned at any time.
This yew variety is recommended for mass planting, foundation, hedges, landscape, and general garden applications.
Considered to be the perfect evergreen for shady locations, Densiformis grows easily in average moisture and well-drained soils in full to part shades.
This Taxus yew shrub variety is ideal for landscape, specimen, foundation, small hedge, and mixed border applications. It provides a year-round interest as it tolerates shearing.
It grows at a slow rate and tolerates almost all weather conditions. It has pointed, needle-like, dark green to olive leaves with red, berry-like fruits.
It is a semi-dwarf, dense, spreading female cultivar growing to about 3 to 4 feet height and spreading 5 to 7 feet wide.
A highly versatile evergreen yew shrub that tolerates heavy pruning, Taxus Stonehenge is an ideal choice for screens, hedges, topiary landscapes, and foundation plantings. It is especially suitable for hedging as it grows tall and narrow and requires very little maintenance.
It is also highly resistant to winter burn, so if you’re in the country’s more extreme northern areas, you will definitely want to give this variety some serious consideration.
Taxus Cuspidata Capitata Yew
Everlow Yew Zoness: 4-7 Height: 10-25 feet. Spreads: 5-10 feet.
Considered to be one of the best-needled evergreens for shady locations, Taxus Cuspidata Capitata is commonly known as Japanese Yew and is a broad columnar needled shrub native to Russia, Japan, China, and Korea.
It grows as much as 30 to 50 feet high in its native habitat, and it thrives in medium moisture, well-drained soils in full to part shade.
This yew features spiny-tipped, linear, dark green needles with dense foliage. Female plants produce red, attractive, berry-like fruits.
The pyramidal conical cultivar tolerates heavy pruning and is suitable for screens, hedges, foundation plantings, and landscapes. It also works for group plantations.
Taxus Media Wardii
Media Wardii Zones: 4-7 Height: 3-6 feet. Spreads: 8-20 feet.
The dense, dark green foliage evergreen yew is known for its ornamental appeal and winter hardiness. It is a low growing, wide-spreading shrub with a flattened top which features linear, pointed, needle-like leaves that remain attractive all the year round.
The plant grows slowly to a height of 4 feet and spreads to about 8 feet over ten years.
It can eventually reach a height of 6 feet and a width of 20 feet. Excellent for foundation and group plantations, Wardii yew suits hedges and barriers too. Female plants have red, attractive, berry-like fruits.
The low-maintenance shrub thrives in sandier, well-drained soil and tolerates drought and windy conditions. It accepts pruning and can be sheared at any time to suit the location.
Summary
Taxus yew shrubs are really easy to grow and maintain and can tolerate shady and sunny places. However, the growth rate decreases if the location is too dark.
The shrub can be planted as seeds or cuttings. However, the most popular method is purchasing the plant from a nursery or garden store.
Though yews do not have any specific soil requirements, they grow best in well-drained, sandy soil. The best time to plant this shrub is a day without sun.
Keeping the rats at bay is the best thing you can do though. With a little forethought, you can create an environment that makes it difficult and unattractive to these rodents.
Trash cans with loose lids, dog food bowls, and even bird feeders will attract rats even if they are off the ground. Make sure that your trash cans are secure and that the outsides are free of food debris. Trash bags can leak so don’t be afraid to double bag if necessary.
Rats love to build their nests in cozy areas where they can hide. For this reason, you need to eliminate and remove any wood piles around the garden and house. If you have firewood, keep it well-stacked and at least a foot off the ground.
Soak cotton balls in peppermint oil and place them in likely points of entry. This would be cracks or spaces near doors and entryways, along the walls in the garage, etc. Even if the peppermint oil doesn’t work, you’ll have a great smelling house!
One option is to sprinkle some black pepper by itself around the points of entry we talked about above. You could also create a spray of cayenne pepper and oil to use outside along walls and crevices.
This is a favorite of my dad who has mothballs all around his garage and even in his antique car.
I personally have never used catnip but I can’t see where it would do any harm. I’ve read that folks have actually planted catnip as a border around their garden. And who knows, maybe the catnip will bring all the neighborhood cats to your yard and take care of the rats personally!
