Before we jump into the killing, let’s try to understand how the weed killers actually work to control weeds.
Pre-Emergent Herbicides
Pre-emergents herbicides prevent new seedlings from sprouting. The corn gluten (or cornmeal) mentioned below leaves a chemical barrier on the soil surface that interferes with sprouting seedlings. They won’t help you right now, but can help control the weed population later.
Systemic Herbicides
These herbicides work by being absorbed by a growing plant leaf. The chemicals travel down throughout the plant to the stems and roots. They interfere with the weed’s ability to make food, preventing growth. These can lead to the death of the whole plant.
Contact Weed Killers
Contact weed killers work by, you guessed it, contacting the plant’s surface. They are usually faster acting than systemic herbicides and can show results in hours. The roots of plants hit with this weed killer will continue to live on. This can work on weeds that spread via seeds, but not any that have runners.
Homemade Weed Killers – DIY Care for Your Lawn
Most of the weed killers below you will already have in your house. You can be outside slaying the garden invaders today.
If you have ever grown vegetables, you know some varieties need soil pH to be a perfect level. That’s where our first weed killer, lemon juice, comes in.
Being acidic, it will make the plant’s environment inhospitable. Sprayed plants should wilt down with a couple of days.
As a side benefit, your garden will smell like pledge and you will drive away a few mosquitoes.
A drawback of lemon juice is that it is more expensive than other methods.
Vinegar
Vinegar has a similar pH value to lemon juice but is a heck of a lot cheaper. It’s around $3-$4 for a gallon for 5%. More potent formulas are on the market, but a good coating of everyday food grade should do the trick.
You can easily whip up a vinegar-based weed killer. You just need to simply mix white vinegar along with a few drops of dishwashing liquid and transfer the solution to a spray bottle. Spray the mixture directly onto the weeds, targeting their leaves and stems.
Be sure to coat the offending plant well, and it will start withering in a day or two.
One great benefit of using water as a weed killer is there is no increase of chemicals in the soil after you are done.
This method works best for small weedy areas. And of course, this is also the cheapest method. Just don’t wear flip-flops like this guy.
Corn Gluten
Corn gluten, as mentioned above, is a pre-emergent herbicide. Corn is a greedy plant and releases a chemical that inhibits the growth of other plants around it. Black walnuts are notorious for doing this as well.
It will only work on weeds spread by seeds, not perennials that come up from existing roots.
For corn gluten to work, there are a couple of things you need to keep in mind.
Application Rate: For 60% protein corn gluten meal, anything less than 20 lbs per 1000 square feet will just be a fertilizer for your lawn. If you purchased 20% protein meal, you will need to apply at a rate of 60 lbs per 1000 square feet.
Timing: You need to apply this in early spring before the weed seeds start germinating. If weeds are already growing, its too late.
Moisture: If you aren’t getting any rain, you will need to run your sprinklers to make it spread.
Other weed suppression methods
Flame Weeding
This method is used in agriculture. As you would expect, holding a propane torch next to a plant will kill it. However, I find it has limited applications to weeds growing in cracks of driveways or walkways for residential use.
Time and good knees are all you need to save your garden.
But for this to be truly effective, you need to make sure you get the roots as well.
Mulches and Ground Covers
Weeds need sunlight and warmth to grow, and mulch and other ground covers deprive them of both. You’ll need to spread your mulch at a depth of at least 2-3 inches to suffocate those dastardly weeds.
Let Grass Grow Taller
Cutting your grass down to the nibs just creates a perfect environment for weeds. Instead, raise your mower blades to at least 2 inches so that your grass can grow tall and proud. Not only will your yard look lush, you’ll be helping to stop the weeds in their tracks.
Edging
You can keep weeds from gaining a foothold in your garden with edging. Putting up a border between your lawn and the flower beds keeps grass out and weeds by extension.
Cut the Weeds Before They Go to Seed
Weeds have seeds, and regular lawn maintenance is crucial to remove any weeds that sprout up. Removing the weeds before their seeds can spread and sprout is half the battle.
Not exactly natural methods
Rubbing Alcohol
Another handy household item is isopropyl rubbing alcohol.
Add about two teaspoons of rubbing alcohol into a spray bottle, and you’ve got a handy, portable spray that kills weeds.
Get the weeds wet but don’t over saturate.
Salt
If you want to go total Armageddon, you can break out a saltwater solution of 1 cup salt for every 2 cups of water.
But remember, salt works by starving the plants of water. All plants – not just weeds.
So use it as a last resort and only if you’re not planning on growing anything there later.
Spring mowing season is coming soon, and with it comes lush, beautiful grass that needs cutting. Unfortunately, your lawnmower has been sitting in your garage all winter long. As a result, it will require a tune-up before it’s in condition to mow.
You can take it to a small engine shop if you don’t want to fool with it, but it’s not hard at all to complete these mower maintenance tasks by yourself. Plus, it will save you money and the aggravation of loading it up and hauling it over town. Keeping your mower’s blades, spark plugs and other equipment maintained will help prevent costly lawn mower breakdowns.
These are my top 7 lawn mower maintenance tips to get you ready for spring and allow your mower to run smooth:
Spring Lawn Mower Maintenance Checklist
1. Change the oil
Dirt and debris in your oil will mess up your engine big time. So now is an excellent time to change it. I recommend doing this once per season and checking the oil level throughout spring and summer.
If your mower has a drain plug, you have it easy. Just let it drain into a recycling pan and turn it into a recycler when it’s full.
However, some mowers do not have a drain plug, and you will need to carefully tilt the mower on its side to allow the oil to drain.
Top it off with the lawn mower oil recommended in your user’s manual. Check the manufacturer’s website if you have misplaced your user’s manual (it happens!). They will usually have a pdf copy for free.
If you’ve been following my advice, you have been cleaning the mower air filter before each use. However, it’s a good idea to go ahead and replace it every year.
Check your manual for the correct replacement model or find the number on the filter you are removing.
It’s a good idea to write these numbers down and put them in a drawer somewhere. If you want to get high-tech, you can use Evernote or Google Keep. I put all the little bits of info about the house (filter sizes, bulbs, etc.) there. It’s handy to pull it up on your phone when you need it.
If you take care of your mower, it will last for 10-15 years or more. That sheet will come in handy.
3. Clean or replace the spark plugs
Dirty plugs will cause backfires and slow starting. Not to mention using up more gas while you cut.
I don’t replace mine every year. The spark plugs seem to work fine with yearly cleaning.
Disconnect the spark plug cap and find a socket or wrench that will fit. Then, unscrew the plug and take a look at it.
If there is a build-up of carbon and soot on the tip, you can use some fine sandpaper to clean it off. Be careful not to pull out the lead and make the gap larger than it is.
Lawn mower spark plugs are inexpensive if you want to replace them, so buy a couple the next time you are in Home Depot or on Amazon. That should last you for years.
4. The best way to sharpen lawn mower blades
This step is so important it should have been number 1. A dull blade will make grass cutting feel like a chore. Get it? Hah!
Blade sharpening might be the most challenging part of lawn mower maintenance, but everyone can do it.
You’ll want to do this when your gas tank isn’t slam-full as you need to turn the mower on its side to get at the blades. You can also tilt it back so it rests on its handle, but you’ll probably need to get someone heavy to hold it in place or have another set of hands.
Keep a mental note of the way the blades are facing when you take them off. We don’t want to put them on backward when reattaching them!
Get a big, sturdy socket wrench and unscrew the bolt. It might be on there pretty tight.
To sharpen the blade(s), you’ll need to keep them sturdy while you hone them. The best way is to put them in your workbench vise. You can still sharpen them if you don’t have one by holding the blades between your legs. You are wearing work pants, right?
Get ready to work out.
Push your rasp or file in the same direction each time. You’ll want to push it from the center of the blade outwards to the edge. Do this up and down the blade’s length until the side is razor-sharp.
I do the other side, even though I’m not too sure it matters.
Be sure not to push and pull the file on the blade. Just one direction.
5. Change out the fuel
Gasoline that isn’t in a sealed container can go bad. Sounds weird, I know.
At the time of refining, it is a perfect mixture to burn. However, having the gas sit in your lawn mower’s tank for six months can cause some of those chemicals to evaporate and change the formula.
Your best bet is to run the mower dry at the end of each season. If you didn’t, you’d need to siphon the old gas out and recycle it along with your old oil. A lot of counties have recycling centers that will take these items.
Top off the tank with fresh gas, and you’ll be good to go.
6. Tighten the bolts
Now is an excellent time to check all the bolts and tighten them up.
First, check the blade. You don’t want that coming off while you’re cutting. Also, check the wheel bolts and tighten them where needed.
Another area you can double-check is where the bolts hold the engine block to the frame. These will be in a circle above the blade. If you have a self-propelled lawn mower, be sure to hit the bolts on the drive, depending on your model, it could be in the front or rear.
Check your kill switch too. The kill switch is the lever that must be held in place to start the mower. If it doesn’t work and your mower keeps running after releasing it, pull the spark plug until you can replace it.
7. Examine the undercarriage
Remember all those times your grass was too wet to cut but you did it anyway? All those clumps are stuck to the bottom of your mowing deck and block the proper operation of your mower.
I use a large flat blade screwdriver to scrape off the large chunks of grass and then come back with a metal wire brush. Clearing all this junk away should help your mower not choke when cutting thick grass.
A bucket of soapy water can get the rest of your mower looking ready for work. Be sure to rinse it cleanly and avoid getting any debris or grass in the gas tank while cleaning.
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I hope these tips help you out this spring. If you put just a little effort into maintaining your lawnmower (including your riding lawn mower) and other lawn equipment, it will serve you well for many years.
This project isn’t complex and should take you no more than an hour or a little more.
With your mower running right, you can be sure to have a perfect-looking lawn this year.
Your yard should be a clean space for you and your family to enjoy and unwind. However, weeds and brush can quickly take over. This can turn your lovely garden into a complete wilderness! It can be pretty daunting at first glance, but it doesn’t have to stay that way.
While many articles talk about getting rid of weeds and brush, not many of them work, leaving homeowners exhausted. This guide talks about the most effective ways to clear a yard full of weeds and brush as quickly as possible with minimal damage to your garden.
The Most Common Lawn Weeds
We will first look at some of the most common lawn weeds that perpetuate gardens and yards in the USA. These weeds are divided into two categories. They are either troublesome weeds, which means they suck the nutrients from the soil, rendering it infertile for other plants and vegetables, or noxious weeds, which have been touted as injurious to public health and the ecosystem.
1. Crabgrass (Digitaria spp.)
Also known as watergrass, Crabgrass is a troublesome weed that grows in the warm season. You would expect to see it in your yard mid-spring through summer. It germinates during the spring season, when the ground temperature is as warm as 55°F, for at least 4-5 consecutive days.
Crabgrass usually perishes when the temperature becomes cooler, near the onset of the fall season.
Crabgrass is a weak, ground-hugging weed that spreads all over the nearby grass. It creates several hundred seeds during the end of summer, which can then sprout the following year.
A safe, organic way to get rid of Crabgrass is to overseed your yard regularly. This will foster an impenetrable root system, not providing sufficient space for crabgrass seeds to grow. You can also mow your lawn to a height of 3 inches, which will help keep the soil cooler, obstructing the growth of this warm-season weed.
If you spot the presence of Crabgrass, you can simply hand-pull the plants when they are still young to prevent them from setting seeds. If you had Crabgrass growing in your yard previously, rake the lawn to remove any debris and then apply organic corn meal gluten as a pre-emergent herbicide.
2. Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)
Dandelion is a perennial weed that is commonly found in California. They germinate when the soil is moist with a temperature of around 50°F. The germination process is more rapid when the ground temperature is higher, i.e., close to 77°F.
Light is another factor that can catalyze the germination of dandelions. These seeds usually take 14 to 21 days to germinate.
Lovely yellow flowers accompany dandelions. The dandelion seeds quickly spread and require the thinnest turf to thrive. Dandelion seeds are carried by air and need the slightest opening in the ground to spread.
Since dandelion seeds are airborne and can nestle in the barest of openings in your yard, you should ensure regular overseeding to maintain a dense root system. This will prevent the propagation of this weed. If you already have dandelion weeds, you have limited organic options.
The best way is to dig them up with as much of the root as possible. Alternatively, you can use a biological agent called Sarritor, which attacks dandelions without damaging your grass.
3. Black Medic (Medicago lupulina)
Black Medic is a prostrate broadleaf weed commonly found in yards and gardens of the USA and Southern Canada. Black Medic is characterized as an annual species. It lives only one year but leaves enough seeds to last a few coming years. Black Medic seeds germinate in the spring season and can survive in disturbed soil and dry and sunny areas. They are most abundant along roadsides but can be a real bane in home gardens and yards.
Black Medic belongs to the legume family, which means it can fix its own nitrogen. It can thus survive in soil lacking nutrients. This quality gives it the ability to survive on low-mowed lawns. It is a spreading weed that can reproduce from its seed if left untouched. It creates a long taproot that grows deep into the soil. Several hairy stems then grow out from it.
This weed is not tolerant to shade so you can prevent its growth with a dense canopy. You should ensure constant hand pulling to prevent the reproduction of seeds. Hoeing is often futile unless done regularly. The aim is to dislodge their deep taproot completely to prevent re-growth. You can also use a vinegar-based herbicide to curb the growth of the Black Medic.
4. Purslane (Portulaca oleracea)
Purslane is widespread in the USA, and grows in almost every state. It is also touted as a noxious weed in at least one U.S. state. A single Purslane plant is capable of producing almost 240,000 seeds, which can make it very hard to get rid of. These seeds can germinate 5-40 years later. This annual summer plant most often inhabits low-maintenance gardens.
Purslane can reproduce through its tiny black seeds during the end of spring season and also reproduce through its leaves. You may have hoed this pesky weed one day, and found its full re-growth the very next day.
The Purslane weed can live in the soil for years, so you should destroy it as soon as you spot it. The best organic method is hand-pulling. After pulling the plant out, make sure you completely destroy it to prevent it from reproducing vegetatively. You can also try mulching garden beds to barricade the development of seedlings.
5. Quackgrass (Elytrigia repens)
Quackgrass is a perennial weed that belongs to the grass family. It is considered a B-rated noxious. You will find it throughout California in the yards of homes. Quackgrass seeds germinate during fall or spring. These seeds can reproduce more than just once a year, and these seeds can remain workable for a period of up to 10 years.
It has long rhizomes, usually a straw-color, that create a heavy base in the soil, which can then sprout new shoots. This plant reproduces through its seeds.
If any pieces of this plant are left in the soil, it can quickly re-grow. Therefore, you need to completely dig out this fast-growing grass as soon as you spot it. Make sure you dispose of the waste bin instead of the compost pile, where it may start growing again. Ensure frequent mowing of the lawn to prevent this plant from creating seeds. You can also pour boiling water on Quackgrass to kill this plant. However, you may need to reseed the nearby affected areas.
6. Nutsedge
Nutsedge, commonly known as Nutgrass, is a persistent and fast-growing weed that commonly occurs in homes and yards throughout the USA. It can be pretty challenging to get rid of this invasive weed. They derive their name Nut Grass due to their close resemblance to grass. Nut sedges are often perennial, so they perish in the fall as soon as temperatures start to drop. However, their stems and tubers can still exist in the soil and shoot the following spring season.
They can spread through seeds, rhizomes (underground stems), and their small tubers. A new tuber can emerge just 4-6 weeks after the emergence of a new shoot.
You can eradicate this plant by digging it out by hand. Make sure you excavate the root so that it is not left behind in the soil. You can also moisten the soil and apply a sugar coat as sugar can eat the nutsedge, successfully eradicating it.
7. Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea)
Creeping Charlie, also known as ground ivy, is an aggressively growing perennial weed that can be hard to remove once it sets in a garden. This weed blooms during early spring, i.e., May to April. You can easily recognize it from its tiny, purple-colored flowers and bright green leaves with a scalloped border. The Creeping Charlie prefers to grow in shady yards.
This weed is hard to get rid of due to the way it spreads. It is characterized by creeping stems, often called stolons, that grow along the nearby ground. It also spreads via seeds. This weed will re-grow if even a tiny piece of the root, the rhizome, is left behind in the soil.
You should hard rake your yard regularly and consistently pull out this weed if you want to get rid of it eventually. In case of an infestation, you can use a diluted borax solution to apply to the soil. Make sure you do not repeat this more than once a year, as the boron content in borax can be detrimental to your garden.
Manual Weed Removal Methods
Even if it is not noxious, weed can compete with your plants for nutrients, leaving them dry. Weeds can also lead to many plant diseases, which can harm you and your garden. While prevention is crucial to weed management, often, the growth of weeds gets unnoticed. In such an event, you need effective weed removal methods to ensure your yard is safe and pleasant for you to use.
1. Mowing and Cutting
Mowing and cutting are effective ways to hamper the growth of weeds, especially before the weeds bloom. However, this method is only effective for certain species of weeds. Others can re-grow even after the plant has been cut. You can regularly mow and cut your yard as a complementary treatment to the use of herbicide to limit further growth of weeds.
It is imperative that you properly discard the cut and mowed parts of the weed to prevent it from re-sprouting from the root or stem. You should chuck these well away from your pasture or yard. Mowing and cutting will not only ensure a well-maintained yard but also prevent weed seeds from multiplying and growing.
2. Weedeating
Weedeating uses a trimmer to cut grass and vegetation that you cannot reach with a lawnmower. Edging is a common weed eating technique that not only gives the lawn a manicured appearance but also ensures weed removal from tight spaces.
Several weeds collect at the edges of a garden. Over time, they can seep into your fertile soil and take over your entire yard. Therefore, you should make sure you trim around your garden, along the fence lines, and around the posts where weeds might start to grow and ultimately penetrate your lawn.
3. Weed pulling Weed pulling is an effective spot treatment to get rid of herbaceous weeds. You can try hand pulling. However, if you’re hesitant to do so, you can use tools like weed wrenches and hoes. Weed wrenches are more practical for eradicating larger shrubs, and hand pulling and hoeing are more effective for a smaller or an initial stage weed infestation.
Hand pulling is a highly effective method to limit and remove several perennial weeds. Hand pulling has a relatively limited ecological impact and does not damage neighboring plants or your garden.
You should pull out the weeds rather slowly and carefully to not disrupt the surrounding soil. Disrupted soil can become a breeding ground for specific weeds. Make sure you have the necessary protective gear like gloves if you decide to hand pull, as weeds can cause skin irritation.
4. Aeration of Lawn
At times, the dirt under the plants tends to get compacted. When this happens, plants can stress out, and this gives weed an opportunity to set in. Aerating your lawn can help prevent this, providing the grass a chance to compete with weeds. To decipher if your lawn needs aeration, dig into your soil (approximately a foot deep). If the roots don’t extend beyond 2 inches, this is a sign that you need to aerate your lawn.
In order to aerate your lawn, you should water your yard two days prior. You can buy or rent an aerator and run it over the garden. Finish this by applying a layer of sand over the aerated garden.
5. Mulching
You can mulch your garden beds and around trees to block the growth of weeds. You can use mulch like cardboard, grass cuttings, shredded leaves, wood chippings, or straw to coat the soil surrounding the plants in your garden. This mulch helps block the sunlight, preventing weed seeds from germinating.
It is advised that you use organic mulch. However, you can use inorganic mulch as well. Make sure the mulch coating is a few inches from the plant base to prevent rotting and insect incursions. The idea is to block the food source of the weed, preventing its growth and survival.
6. Organic/Natural Weed Killing Methods
You can use organic solutions to kill weeds in your yard. Bear in mind that some of these may be more effective on some weeds than others.
Vinegar: Vinegar contains acetic acid, which can kill weeds. Make sure you mix vinegar with a mild dishwasher, so it sticks to the weeds. Vinegar can dehydrate plants, so it is best to apply it to weeds found on pavements and sidewalks, away from your other plants. If you use it near other plants, spray it on the weeds to ensure minimal damage to nearby vegetation. You will see results in just 30 minutes. However, this is not a permanent solution, and weeds may grow back some days later.
Boiling Water: You can also use boiling water to kill weeds. However, the water should be poured exclusively on weeds as it can kill other plants and vegetation. You may use a kettle with a spout for spot treatment so that the heat and water do not penetrate other plants.
Flame Weeding: Flame weeding uses intense heat to kill weeds. You can use a propane gas burner to direct carefully controlled heat towards the weeds and not the surrounding plants. This will damage the plant’s cell structure, preventing it from growing. Be careful so as not to burn the vegetation. Flame weeding is most effective on smaller weeds/seedlings.
Clearing Weeds with Chemicals
Some weeds require more aggressive treatment. You can use chemicals to get rid of these pesky weeds and acquire a weed-free garden again. Of course, chemicals do have side effects for your yard, but they are sometimes required as weeds can do more harm than the chemicals themselves.
1. Weed and Feed
Weed and feed is the universal term for several lawn chemicals. The weed component in the weed and feed consists of herbicides, which can kill some leafy weeds. The ‘feed’ in weed and feed refers to fertilizer that helps the yard flourish. This combination helps your yard get rid of weeds, promoting its nutritional health simultaneously.
Weed and feed, when applied to the garden, kills the weed but does not harm the grass unless you apply too much of it. This chemical is available in both granular and liquid forms.
2. Pre-Emergent Herbicides
Pre-Emergent Herbicide is a chemical that hampers the growth of weed seedlings into their established form. They are highly effective for some weed species like Crabgrass. They should be applied to the weed seeds during their germination process. The application of pre-emergent Herbicide should be when the soil is warm, up to 50-55 degrees, for it to be effective. You should choose a pre-emergent herbicide based on the weeds it can kill. This way, you can make sure your yard is weed-free. Pre-emergent herbicides can damage new lawns, so don’t use them until the grass sets for a few months.
3. Brush killer
As the name suggests, Brush killer can kill hard-to-get-rid-of brushes in yards. Most brush killers contain chemicals like Triclopyr, Fluazifop, and 2,4-D that effectively kill weeds. Brush killers can kill the most invasive brushwood species. Herbicides can kill plants, so make sure you know how (and how much) to use them. You should study the extent of the invasion before selecting the suitable brush killer herbicide.
Other Tips for Keeping Your Yard Weed Free
Prevention is always better than cure! There are some effective tips all homeowners can use to limit the growth and spread of weeds in their yard. Let’s take a look.
1. Fertilize Your Lawn
Fertilizers can replace any lost nutrients in your yard. This helps foster healthy plants and ensures strong grassroots that provide no space for weeds to set in and reproduce. You should regularly fertilize your garden to hamper weeds from taking a foothold in any bare patches.
2. Reseeding Bare Spots
Lawn repair is essential if you want to prevent weeds from setting in. If you spot any bare spots on your lawn, plant grass seed there, or else it will allow weed to set in. This will also boost the overall aesthetics of your yard!
3. Mow the Grass Regularly
Mowing grass regularly is not just for the lawn’s aesthetic. It can also prevent weed growth. Experts recommend that you regularly mow the grass to a length of 3.5 to 4 inches, as grass at this height can compete with weeds and choke it out.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Can I Use Pre-Emergent Herbicide if Weeds are Already Present?
Pre-emergent herbicide is only effective if used before weeds are already present in your garden. It prevents seeds from completing the germination process. It should ideally be applied to your yard during early spring before weeds emerge. You may use post-emergent herbicide to kill weeds already visible above the ground.
2. How can I clear my yard full of weeds using natural methods?
You can use the following natural, organic methods to get rid of weeds:
Use mulch like newspaper or shredded leaves to cover the soil. This blocks sunlight and oxygen from reaching the weed and letting it grow or survive.
4. What is the best way to remove weeds from a large area?
You can choose to dig up the weeds manually using a garden hoe and then apply a herbicide to the large area. If you don’t want chemicals, you can also use a large quantity of diluted vinegar to spray on the affected area.
Conclusion
Weeds can be detrimental to your garden. Therefore, you should try to get rid of them as soon as possible. Weeds can quickly spread, and then they can be hard to control.
You can use natural solutions like vinegar, boiling water, and flame weeding to kill weeds or use chemicals for larger, more invasive weed infestations.
With these methods, you will soon be able to enjoy a weed-free yard with minimal damage suffered by the rest of your plants.
When you’re digging in your property for home renovation or landscaping projects, you will be running the risk of hitting a gas line, which can lead to a disaster.
So how deep are gas lines buried, and how do you avoid hitting them when digging in your property?
The depth of gas and utility lines will depend on your location because local governments set regulations. Typically, you will find gas lines at 24 inches below ground, while other utilities are 18 inches below ground. The depth of gas lines is measured from the frost line in cold regions.
But there are no shortcuts when digging below ground, and safety precautions should be your number one priority.
This article will guide you through the process to find out exactly where your gas and utility lines are so that you can dig in your property without any risk to your safety or gas and utility services.
Before You Dig Near a Gas Line
Suppose you plan to take on a project at home that requires you to dig, such as digging post holes to put up a fence, creating a garden pond, digging foundations for a garage/shed, or installing an irrigation system.
In that case, you need to find out whether there is a gas line or any other utility line below ground.
You could electrocute yourself, poison others, or even potentially cause an explosion. Not to mention fines for hitting gas lines of as much as $50,000, depending on where you live.
Fortunately, since 2005, there has been a hotline set up in America, where you can dial 811. In addition, they provide a regional service in locating underground utilities across the country.
This is referred to as ‘call before you dig’ or a ‘dig safe’ hotline.
You should call 811 at least three days before digging to allow them to respond and send out service workers to mark utility lines for you and help you identify which parts of your yard are safe to dig into.
Other Buried Utilities
The call before you dig service will help you identify where public gas lines and utilities are. Still, there are some other lines that it may not be able to identify, such as security systems, irrigation systems, landscaping wires, and anything else that a private utility company may have set up.
These buried utilities installed by private companies require you to contact the companies who installed them and pay them a service fee to mark them for you.
Alternatively, utility line locating services use Ground Penetrating Radar (GPR) devices, which use electromagnetic signals to identify buried materials, to find any lines that public and private service providers may have missed.
There are other buried utilities, besides natural gas pipes, that you need to look out for, including Internet and cable TV wires, water and sewerage mains, telephone wires, and other electric service wires.
Common Gas Line and Utility Markings
Now that you’ve contacted the right people to mark your gas and utility lines and you know exactly where they are, you still need to figure out what all of these gas line ad utility markings actually mean.
Also, note that the “call before you dig” service line can only help you identify the utility lines up to the point of connection with your home. After that, they consider any additional lines your private property.
Here’s a look at the standard gas line and utility markings color codes:
White lines mark proposed excavation sites
Green lines mark sewer lines
Pink lines which parts of the property have been surveyed
Purples lines mark irrigation and water lines
Orange lines mark alarms and other communication lines like telephone wires and internet cables
Red lines mark electric lines, and yellow lines mark natural gas, oil, and steam lines
And, finally, blue lines mark potable water pipes
Can you tell which utilities are buried here?
How Close Can You Dig Near Gas Lines?
To dig safely around gas lines, you cannot assume that the markings that have been set out before you begin your excavation are 100% accurate and dig with blind trust.
When using mechanical tools to dig, safety officers recommend leaving a berth of 500 millimeters (±20 inches) to account for any errors in your technique or miscalculations in locating the specific lines that you’re digging around.
Suppose you’re digging by hand or using horizontal digging practices, which are a bit more precise and easier to stop. In that case, a 15-inch buffer is recommended when digging anywhere near a gas line.
However, now that you know where you can dig, note that you need to dig with care. So, to avoid causing damage while digging, consider the following:
Dig with a shovel with a rounded or blunt-edged rather than anything with a sharp edge to avoid puncturing lies.
Break soil away lightly as you approach the marked utility line and ensure that you’re precise in your movements.
Be vigilant and do not dig under the assumption that the utility line-markings are accurate.
Also, don’t scare dirt off of the utility line and just leave it be. You’d be surprised how many people puncture lines by simply trying to remove dirt after the line has been found.
Finally, dig right up to the line itself, not just markings or tape, so that you know exactly where it is and make careless assumptions.
If you follow these steps, your digging project should not experience any significant obstacles, and you can rest assured that your health and safety are not compromised.
Frequently Asked Questions
Most of what you need to know about digging near gas and other utility lines has been covered with the guidelines set out above. But there are a few other common queries that you may want answers for.
Can you Break a gas line with a shovel? Yes, but gas lines are typically quite strong, made of metal or plastic. They are most commonly thick enough to withstand any damage from hand digging with a shovel.
However, you should still exercise caution when digging by hand. If you strike hard enough or consistently strike a gas line, it is certainly possible to break a gas line.
What is the minimum depth for underground gas piping? According to building codes in most states in the US, the minimum depth for all piping systems must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches or 305mm. However, individual outdoor appliances, such as lines for lights and grills, are only required to be installed at a depth of 8 inches or 203mm.
Conclusion
Now that you’re more informed about how to dig around gas lines and identify where they are, you’re ready to get started on your next big home project and have one less obstacle to face.
However, always remember that health and safety need to be your number one priority. There is no room for corner-cutting in this process. You should always consult with professionals if you are unsure about anything.
Do not take risks or try to save money because if you do and it results in any mistakes, you could end up costing yourself a lot more in the long run and derailing the entire project.
Green grass sometimes turns yellow for several reasons. The most common is improper fertilizing, a deficiency of nutrients in the soil, and an infestation of insects.
Yellow grass degrades the overall appearance of your home, so it is essential to restore the aesthetic appeal of your lawn.
Common Yellow Lawn Problems and How to Fix Them
As stated earlier, there is a multitude of reasons why your grass might be turning yellow. But don’t despair; having your grass turn yellow is rarely a terminal issue.
You can restore the grass to its original green state if intervention is done early enough to stop the issue before it can deteriorate further.
Corrective measures and a consistent approach to taking proper care of your lawn will bring it back to a lush, green state that will appeal to everyone in your home.
Water: Overwatering & Underwatering
When you over-water your lawn, the essential nutrients are washed out, causing your grass to be deficient in the crucial elements for its growth. As such, it is left malnourished and looking yellow.
In other cases, uneven irrigation and very little water will lead to the formation of dry yellow spots in your lawn where the grass is not receiving any water.
The ideal time to water your lawn should be when the two uppermost inches of soil have gotten dry.
Additionally, schedule a few deep watering sessions each week compared to many watering sessions that are too shallow to irrigate the grass properly.
Fertilization Issues
Yellow lawns can also be caused by using the wrong fertilizer or a lack of nitrogen in the soil. If your grass starts slowing its growth, it most likely lacks the critical nitrogen in the ground. With the use of a slow-release fertilizer, you will ensure that the soil has enough nitrogen.
The choice of fertilizer you use will depend on the type of grass, the current growing season, and the appearance of the grass. Spring and fall are the main seasons to fertilize your lawn, but you can form your custom schedule depending on the type of grass growing on your property.
And then maybe, just maybe, your grass is taking a breather. But, unfortunately, temperature and weather changes can cause your grass to go dormant and thereby lose that healthy green look.
If this is the situation with your lawn, consider a cool-season grass that can be used for your warm-season lawns to provide a balance during the growing season.
The warm-season grass usually starts turning yellow whenever there is a drop in temperature. However, adding cool-season grass causes the yellow lawn to stop since the grass can retain its green color even as winter approaches.
Lawn Diseases
In case your grass starts showing signs of yellow striping your grass might be suffering from iron chlorosis. The yellow appearance might be due to a lack of iron, and places that have concrete nearby or alkaline soil will show this symptom.
In most cases, the veins of the grass will remain green, but the grass blades will start turning yellow. Iron supplements are available if this is the case.
Dog Urine Burns
Urination by your pets could be the other reason for your lawn turning yellow. The urine might cause the yellow spots, and this can be remedied by hosing down these areas. The urine is effectively washed away, and this helps to manage the yellow appearance.
At times, the best solution for a yellow lawn is to remove the patches of yellow grass and replant them.
Sometimes, a heat source could be the reason for the yellowing. A chemical spill will require that you replant the grass and when you do, remember to add compost and fresh soil to the patch for the best growth of the new grass.
Grubs and Other Pests
Pests and grubs underneath the soil could also be eating away at the grass stems ad causing the structure above to dry up and take on a yellow appearance. With proper use of pesticides on your grass lawn, you will quickly get rid of the pests.
The application of fertilizer will also achieve the same effect as the faster growth will compensate for the damage caused by the grubs, insects, and pests.
Soil Compaction
Believe it or not, the density of your soil can also be a contributor to yellow grass. When the soil is compacted, the ability of grass to absorb oxygen, water, and other nutrients is significantly impacted.
To improve pore space in your soil, invest in an aerator. Then, when the soil is moist, make multiple passes over the affected area so that you have at least 10 holes per square foot of lawn.
Q: Can yellow grass turn green again? A: Yellow grass can turn green unless the yellowing was a result of a chemical spill. You can reverse other causes of yellowing and restore your lawn to its lush, green appearance.
With the proper kind of care and supplementing your soil, your grass will be able to get the nutrients it needs. Subsequently, it will be able to restore its appearance and healthy, strong state.
Q: What is the best fertilizer for yellow grass? A: Organic fertilizers are the best choice for your lawn. They improve the soil’s ability to retain water and improve the quality of your soil.
You can also add nitrogen naturally to your lawn soil by applying poultry manure or a commercial lawn fertilizer with a higher nitrogen ratio to other nutrients.
With this in place, you will improve the soil nitrogen content, and the yellow grass will get the nutrients that it so much needs.
Q: Why is my grass turning yellow in summer? A: During the summer, there are massive heatwaves, and the temperatures are also very high. These factors can cause your grass to become scorched, which does not mean that your grass is burned.
It is still alive since the heat has not damaged the roots, but the grass might appear yellow. One of the best countermeasures for this heat in the summer is watering your grass to counter the heat.
Run the sprinklers long enough to get the soil around the deepest roots wet.
Conclusion
Has your perfectly green lawn started getting tainted by yellow patches and spots all over? There are several reasons for the yellow appearance, such as scorching by the sun, heat stress, and excess nitrogen.
Nitrogen deficiency is also a cause for a yellow lawn. However, it can be countered by the correct measure of good fertilizer.
Soil compaction and pests have also been known to inhibit the spread and growth of the grassroots, limiting the grass’s growth.
It is possible to restore the green appearance of your lawn if you have better drainage, fertilize correctly and only mow your lawn when the grass is dry.
Mulchers offer a unique disposal method that provides an environmentally friendly solution.
What Does a Mulcher Do?
A versatile tool, mulchers reduce volume by grinding and converting it into usable material. Different types include the mulching mower, leaf mulcher, shredder, chipper, and the foresters’ oversized models.
The process produces a fine or course end product of organic materials that can break down into nutrients that nourish the soil.
Mulchers can transform branches, brush, cut grass, household compost, leaves, and vines into enrichment for lawns and gardens.
In addition to providing an attractive ground cover in flower beds and gardens, mulch provides natural fertilizer to prevent weed growth.
An almost never-ending need for mulch in a landscape allows a layer of 4 inches to provide protective cover around decorative plants, fruits, and vegetables as they grow.
Mulching Mower
As an ideal tool to enhance the enjoyment of lawn work, a mulching mower can cut grass into small pieces that can biodegrade into nutrients for the soil.
As an extra benefit, it removes the chore of disposing of grass clippings by becoming a source of fertilizer for lawns and gardens.
As the mulching blade cuts grass, the clippings go under the deck for further size reduction. The vacuum that the process creates allows the fine pieces of grass to move into a chute where they come out and fall on the ground.
Mowing mulchers work best when the grass provides the right height. Either too short or too tall can impair performance. When the mowing mulcher can remove 1/3 of the desired height of a mowed lawn, the equipment can work ideally.
Minimal upkeep of the mower after each use can clear the underside of clippings. Blades work better without any clogs under the deck, and they usually occur only in overgrown or wet lawns.
Leaf Mulchers
SunJoe Leaf Mulcher / ShredderAn advantage of a leaf mulcher lets homeowners reserve the mulching mower for a job that requires it. For example, even when a yard may not need equipment to pulverize grass into tiny pieces as it mows a lawn, it may require a leaf mulcher.
A standalone unit can accept leaves in the top and deliver ground organic material that enriches the soil in beds or compost piles.
Some leaf mulchers shred the leaves with special powered blades, while others use metal wires to reduce the volume significantly. The efficiency of the equipment makes trips to a landfill to deposit leaves unnecessary as it retains rich nutrients.
After the leaves fall into a catch chamber below the mulcher, homeowners have convenient access to nutritional components that enrich any garden, bed, or lawn.
The process speeds up decomposition for composting and allows the leaves to contribute to plant growth and a well-cared-for appearance around walkways, paths, and entryways.
In addition, many areas of the country no longer permit open burning, which fouls the air. At the same time, a mulcher produces something useful without harming the environment.
Property owners can rely on chippers and shredders to reduce wood waste to chips that serve practical purposes. Gardeners need mulch to prevent weed growth and moisture retention, and landscape designers beautify focal areas with it.
While similar in some ways, the different pieces of equipment perform unique tasks.
Chippers work well with breaking down more significant pieces of wood into small chips. On the other hand, a shredder crushes and pulls apart smaller and softer wood debris to create compost-ready mulch. Large, trailer-mounted equipment can meet tree trimmers’ challenge by reducing a huge volume to a manageable mass.
Forestry Mulchers
Forestry Mulcher Image by DENISCIMAF from PixabayFor sheer power and efficiency in land clearing, forestry mulchers have no equal. Large, mounted skid steer machines can provide the agility and flexibility to clean up dense underbrush and small trees.
In addition, wood debris can return to the ecosystem that produced it. Highly efficient mulching heads on the equipment can shred trees up to 8 inches in diameter with ease.
A welcome sight on any job site, a skid steer heavy-duty forestry mulcher can cut a 5-ft swath even with limbs as large as small trees. Brush cutters and mulching heads convert skid steers into voracious land clearing equipment that keeps labor costs low.
The combination of a flow motor, specially designed frame, push bar, and drive train allows the equipment to provide superior performance and durability that lasts. In addition, high flotation designs prevent dirt from getting into the teeth to lessen maintenance requirements.
What Makes Mulching Blades Different
The difference between the design of standard lawnmower blades and mulching blades makes them easy to recognize. Each can complete a job that the other cannot perform as efficiently.
The aerodynamic design of standard blades allows them to blow the grass clippings away from the mower as it cuts. Often called 2-in-1 blades, they do two jobs that cut and expel the clippings.
They work well when homeowners mow lawns regularly and do not allow grass to grow too high.
Mulching blades, on the other hand, can perform three tasks as their name of 3-in-1 suggests:
The curvature and expanded cutting edge allow the blades to cut the grass many times before returning it to a lawn. Without the aerodynamics of a 2-in-1 blade, it chops the grass into fine pieces.
Regular mowing prevents overgrown grass from clogging and creating unsightly clumps of grass.
The mulching process converts organic material into easily absorbed nutrients for plants.
Can I Swap Out My Lawn Mower Blade for Mulching Blades?
You have a great chance of finding a mulching blade that can make your mower handle the grass clippings the way you want. In addition, attaching it requires the same level of safety that you use when you remove a blade to sharpen it and reinstall it.
To produce the mulching effect that creates usable organic matter for your garden, flower beds, or lawn, you need to block the discharge chute.
The clippings must stay underneath the mower for repeated revolutions of the mulching blade to create the nutrient-rich mulch. Blocking the discharge opening allows the blade time to cut the clippings until they fall into the ground.
While converting your standard blade to a mulching blade may produce good results, it cannot match the efficiency of a mulching mower. However, cutting your grass a little higher than usual gives your conversion a better chance of working.
Looking for an easy, natural way to cut back on the weeds in your lawn and garden beds?
Dirty plugs will cause backfires and slow starting. Not to mention using up more gas while you cut.
Remember all those times your grass was too wet to cut but you did it anyway? All those clumps are stuck to the bottom of your mowing deck and block the proper operation of your mower.
